Wastegate issues anyone?
#4
Cool, thanks guys.
Here are my issues.
1) I installed a RMW tune, and after I did this, the car is very jerky and hard to drive, especially at low RPM. That is, the throttle response is good, but under partially throttle, the engine hesitates, and builds up boost very rough and slowly
2) At full throttle, and I'm guessing, full boost, I get a fluttering noise (on WOT, it is NOT the JCW Challenge flutter that you get when you release the throttle) from 3000-4000 rpm in third and fourth gear. I have recorded a sound clip of this, but I'm not sure how to attach it It's an m4a file. So if you want it, give me your email address and I'll send it over.
3) The tune I got doesn't feel like it's that much faster than stock.
Here are my issues.
1) I installed a RMW tune, and after I did this, the car is very jerky and hard to drive, especially at low RPM. That is, the throttle response is good, but under partially throttle, the engine hesitates, and builds up boost very rough and slowly
2) At full throttle, and I'm guessing, full boost, I get a fluttering noise (on WOT, it is NOT the JCW Challenge flutter that you get when you release the throttle) from 3000-4000 rpm in third and fourth gear. I have recorded a sound clip of this, but I'm not sure how to attach it It's an m4a file. So if you want it, give me your email address and I'll send it over.
3) The tune I got doesn't feel like it's that much faster than stock.
#6
Jan says the tune is fine, and the car is the issue. And to be honest, I trust him. He also tried a few other tunes, all with no difference in the issues.
#7
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#9
Regardless if its not there when the ecu flashed then you can isolate it to that cause.
Waste gates are a mechanical part and their failure rates are very low. maybe the solenoids that actuate them but even then the problem would be apparent it factory tune. Try to isolate the problem,low rpm? how much throttle? is it relative to gear? process each suspect and go from there. Number one though should be the tune, you didnt have this problem before it but now you do... i highly doubt the problem is there with out the tune. You would have noticed it before. Get a gauge, how much boost are you running? how much boost on overboost?
#10
Regardless if its not there when the ecu flashed then you can isolate it to that cause.
Waste gates are a mechanical part and their failure rates are very low. maybe the solenoids that actuate them but even then the problem would be apparent it factory tune. Try to isolate the problem,low rpm? how much throttle? is it relative to gear? process each suspect and go from there. Number one though should be the tune, you didnt have this problem before it but now you do... i highly doubt the problem is there with out the tune. You would have noticed it before. Get a gauge, how much boost are you running? how much boost on overboost?
Waste gates are a mechanical part and their failure rates are very low. maybe the solenoids that actuate them but even then the problem would be apparent it factory tune. Try to isolate the problem,low rpm? how much throttle? is it relative to gear? process each suspect and go from there. Number one though should be the tune, you didnt have this problem before it but now you do... i highly doubt the problem is there with out the tune. You would have noticed it before. Get a gauge, how much boost are you running? how much boost on overboost?
Different problems occur at different throttle positions and rpms. At low rpm the power comes on jerkily, even worse when at part throttle. When the throttle is partially depressed, the car accelerates for a 1/10 second, then hesitates, then builds up the power. Also very difficult to modulate throttle. On full power at low rpm, the car ramps up boost too slowly, and is also not at all smooth.
The fluttering at 3k-4krpm sounds a lot like the car is not holding it's pressure like it should be. Anyway, I'll post up asap my boost pressures across the range.
#12
I also did ScanGauge runs of the stock and RMW maps, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and video recorded them (unfortunately ScanGauges don't log)
If anyone wants to see any of them, I'll email it to them.
Last edited by etalj; 01-12-2011 at 04:08 PM.
#14
Is there any way to check this? I'm not too bad with under the hood works....(by no means brilliant, but I'm an engineer)
I also did ScanGauge runs of the stock and RMW maps, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and video recorded them (unfortunately ScanGauges don't log)
If anyone wants to see any of them, I'll email it to them.
I also did ScanGauge runs of the stock and RMW maps, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and video recorded them (unfortunately ScanGauges don't log)
If anyone wants to see any of them, I'll email it to them.
This is a fairly common thing with boosted cars & increasing boost, you got to also do all the supporting mods, or cut boost to more stable levels.
#15
Easiest way is to get a higher holding DV & see if it stops. Really we need to see what the DV regulator is getting for a signal. Some times you can hit the ECU's boost stop to fast & it cuts boost by opening up the DV/wastegate. Then boost dips to low, & it closes it back up.
This is a fairly common thing with boosted cars & increasing boost, you got to also do all the supporting mods, or cut boost to more stable levels.
This is a fairly common thing with boosted cars & increasing boost, you got to also do all the supporting mods, or cut boost to more stable levels.
#16
Easiest way is to get a higher holding DV & see if it stops. Really we need to see what the DV regulator is getting for a signal. Some times you can hit the ECU's boost stop to fast & it cuts boost by opening up the DV/wastegate. Then boost dips to low, & it closes it back up.
This is a fairly common thing with boosted cars & increasing boost, you got to also do all the supporting mods, or cut boost to more stable levels.
This is a fairly common thing with boosted cars & increasing boost, you got to also do all the supporting mods, or cut boost to more stable levels.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
According to this thead this is a wastegate, a replacement for the stock; not a noise maker blow-off valve. Seems to be inexpensive vs doing a lot of other mods.
#17
What about a higher performing wastegate, such as:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
According to this thead this is a wastegate, a replacement for the stock; not a noise maker blow-off valve. Seems to be inexpensive vs doing a lot of other mods.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
According to this thead this is a wastegate, a replacement for the stock; not a noise maker blow-off valve. Seems to be inexpensive vs doing a lot of other mods.
BTW, when people say "wastegate", do they mean the diverter valve which vents charged intake air back to the pre-turbo side, because I thought a wastegate diverts exhaust gasses around the turbocharger to slow down the turbo....
#18
What about a higher performing wastegate, such as:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
According to this thead this is a wastegate, a replacement for the stock; not a noise maker blow-off valve. Seems to be inexpensive vs doing a lot of other mods.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
According to this thead this is a wastegate, a replacement for the stock; not a noise maker blow-off valve. Seems to be inexpensive vs doing a lot of other mods.
Worst case, you just spent $70 & get better boost response, & really with increased boost, you should already have this on the car.
One thing, I am not a MINI specialist, & really don't know what boost level the ECU, DV, turbo, or waste gate will safely operate at. It would really help if you can get on a dyno, & do an A/F log with boost. With out some kind of logs, we are all just guessing.
#19
That's a DV (diverter valve) not a waste gate. Very different things. Yes, if yours is leaking, or not holding boost, this will totally help.
Worst case, you just spent $70 & get better boost response, & really with increased boost, you should already have this on the car.
One thing, I am not a MINI specialist, & really don't know what boost level the ECU, DV, turbo, or waste gate will safely operate at. It would really help if you can get on a dyno, & do an A/F log with boost. With out some kind of logs, we are all just guessing.
Worst case, you just spent $70 & get better boost response, & really with increased boost, you should already have this on the car.
One thing, I am not a MINI specialist, & really don't know what boost level the ECU, DV, turbo, or waste gate will safely operate at. It would really help if you can get on a dyno, & do an A/F log with boost. With out some kind of logs, we are all just guessing.
Also, that diverter valve from way apparently only shows a difference on the stock MCS. Maybe I'll borrow the diverter from my brothers' JCW
I think there might be a way to log AFR using the scangauge. If there isn't, I'll see if I can book some dyno time in.
#20
Will my timing be retarded if the diverter valve is leaking. Because the scangauge showed timing retardation at the same time the fluttering is heard.
Also, that diverter valve from way apparently only shows a difference on the stock MCS. Maybe I'll borrow the diverter from my brothers' JCW
I think there might be a way to log AFR using the scangauge. If there isn't, I'll see if I can book some dyno time in.
Also, that diverter valve from way apparently only shows a difference on the stock MCS. Maybe I'll borrow the diverter from my brothers' JCW
I think there might be a way to log AFR using the scangauge. If there isn't, I'll see if I can book some dyno time in.
#21
Edit, forgot to say I sent them to Jan
Last edited by etalj; 01-16-2011 at 04:33 AM.
#22
Additional symptoms: Intermittent hesitation, pinging, puff of smoke under full throttle. Sound familiar?
#23
My MCS has been doing everything you described since my RMW, too. I thought it was throttle mapping being too sensitive, but from your post I'm thinking there may be something else at work here. Given that the RMW tunes are running quite well on most cars, it leads me to believe something is amiss with my MINI's timing system/VANOS.
Additional symptoms: Intermittent hesitation, pinging, puff of smoke under full throttle. Sound familiar?
Additional symptoms: Intermittent hesitation, pinging, puff of smoke under full throttle. Sound familiar?
#24
I was able to sort out his hesitation/ping problem by switching spark plugs from stock to the Brisk silver plugs available from Alta. Definite better low end torque, and no longer any misfires(pinging). at first, I didn't regap the plugs-- be sure to regap the plugs to the specs listed on Alta's website-- I'd recommend starting at a smaller gap given it's a colder plug and will likely have issues with mis-spark otherwise.
After all the superknock with the RMW tune, switching to these Brisk plugs transformed by car and I can now floor the accelerator and it just pulls like crazy-- and no hesitation/knock.
Just do it. Plugs are so easy on this car compared to most. If your tuned for higher compression/boost, you really need the upgraded (colder) plugs for reliability.
After all the superknock with the RMW tune, switching to these Brisk plugs transformed by car and I can now floor the accelerator and it just pulls like crazy-- and no hesitation/knock.
Just do it. Plugs are so easy on this car compared to most. If your tuned for higher compression/boost, you really need the upgraded (colder) plugs for reliability.
#25
I do have the WMW DV on order 'cause of this thread.
I was able to sort out his hesitation/ping problem by switching spark plugs from stock to the Brisk silver plugs available from Alta. Definite better low end torque, and no longer any misfires(pinging). at first, I didn't regap the plugs-- be sure to regap the plugs to the specs listed on Alta's website-- I'd recommend starting at a smaller gap given it's a colder plug and will likely have issues with mis-spark otherwise.
After all the superknock with the RMW tune, switching to these Brisk plugs transformed by car and I can now floor the accelerator and it just pulls like crazy-- and no hesitation/knock.
Just do it. Plugs are so easy on this car compared to most. If your tuned for higher compression/boost, you really need the upgraded (colder) plugs for reliability.
After all the superknock with the RMW tune, switching to these Brisk plugs transformed by car and I can now floor the accelerator and it just pulls like crazy-- and no hesitation/knock.
Just do it. Plugs are so easy on this car compared to most. If your tuned for higher compression/boost, you really need the upgraded (colder) plugs for reliability.