Hi guys,

I currently have a problem with my JCW.

I have a thread all about it if you want to read it here.

Now, I've changed spark plugs, diverter valve, done a seafoam treatment, and BMW fuel system cleaning, all still not fixing the problem.

Now I've done my reading and then some, and seen that the fuel pump is my next possible culprit.

It would be a great help to get people who have had their HPFP changed on their R56 to chime in with the problems they had before the HPFP was blamed, as BMW tells me that their is no way to know that the HPFP is the problem-causer.

I am buying a Auterra DashDyno SPD to log any and all sensors, and I will post the graphs as soon as it arrives from the states. Please let me know if you have any suggestions, from graphs you would like to see from my dashdyno, to possible culprits that could be causing the issue.

I'm at my wit's end.

Thanks in advance.

Elie

 

If it is a High Pressure Pump, it would be covered under warranty for 10 years or 100k miles. They had issues with them so they extended the warranty. If you HPP was bad and it logged misfire faults in the freeze frame data(FASTA data in BMW) it would store fuel pressure readings at time of faults. That FASTA data would be transmitted to BMW by dealer, allowing BMW to authorize replacement. The HPP is on a Pre-auth list and requires BMW to view data before Warranty replacement is approved. If faults are stored and the HPP readings are below 4Bar at time of fault, they approve replacement of the pumps.

 

I went and had a told the guys at BMW that the warranty on the HPFP was extended (I live in Australia) and he said that was a lie

The only faults that have been recorded so far are superknock in cylinders 1, 2 and 4. Is that the same as misfiring? There was no pressure reading associated with it, but I wasn't at a BMW stealership.

Maybe I should go straight to BMW Australia. If you guys in the states get a 10yr warranty, surely I should as well?

 

superknocks are not misfires they are pinging (pinking in uk) or pre-detonation. causes will vary, could be something like poor fuel quality, i see the faults alot with customer whom run 87 octane fuel instead of premium. could also be caused by intake runner coking/carbon build up on intake valves. if your vehicle is over 20,000 miles it would be worth while to remove the intake and clean the valves. i have tried various decarb chemicals with the intake installed but nothing compares to manually cleaning them. hpp could cause super knocks as well but given the history of stock programming not showing issue , i would tend to lean towards carbon build up. i didn't notice you were not in the USA, sorry.

 

No no, no apology necessary.

Well maybe I'll give the inlets a manual cleaning. I'm going to the mechanic's today (in four hours). I'll see if he's willing to do it for me. How should I go about it?

 

its pretty simple. just remove inlet manifold. there is one lower bolt you cannot see from top thats under throttle but its pretty straight forward removal. then turn engine until 1,3,4 valve are closed , let soak in chemical of your choice then brush them clean with small engine brushes and use pick for large pieces. after several soakings and scrubings they should be nice and clean. warranty pays about 5 hours to complete manual cleaning so it is a time consuming process. best of luck

 

Ah. See I tried to remove the inlet manifold. I took out the 5 bolts that hold it in from the top, I didn't see the one underneath. So can you point out where it is on this photo?

 

If you go straight down from the oil catch can you have installed its down there. It is a 10mm bolt that is located under the throttle body. Many people get to it from the bottom. I personally have smaller arms and hands than most so I can get to it from the top. If doing from top use 10mm deep on a 1/4 drive ratchet. If you want flex head ratchet that would be best. Feel for it by hand. attached a photo that shows bolt. in the photo the throttle is removed but that is just in that photo. you do not need to remove the throttle

 

Thanks so much (that photo is not of my car, but I have a catch can in the same position, and a DoS intake)

I'll give it a crack tonight, and report soon after.

 

To answer your original question...

My HPFP has gone bad once, but I didn't have the common symptoms of cold start issues.

Symptom wise, the car pinged like crazy constantly and occasionally stumbled a little when first moving in the morning....and one day it finally threw a code at idle related to low fuel pressure. The HPFP was working, but only putting out half the pressure it was supposed to.

 

Thanks thumper

 

I've been trying to removed this bolt underneath for about an hour, to no avail. I hope it's the right one. Am I right in saying that bolt head faces the passenger-side wheel (or in my case, the driver's side wheel). If so, it's so hard to get a 10mm socket on it, because it is too close to the black plastic.

Also, I almost got electrocuted, the ratchet handle melted in certain places

I have it out about 3/4 of the way, but it's still not out all the way, because my arms are absolutely knackered, as there is no room to work from underneath the car, and it's impossible to do it from the top, as I can't see what I'm doing.

I just hope I'm undoing the right one

 

sounds like the correct one. it does face the right side of the vehicle. it is recessed so having a deep socket gives you the reach to get to it. one its loose you should be able to remove with just socket and fingers. if you remove the 5 nuts on top you should feel it pivoting on the lower bolt that is still in. that will verify it is the correct bolt. after that its just connectors and solenoids under the intake you have to worry about. if you slide the solenoids from the bracket it makes it easier to reinstall.

 

Cool, I'll give it another shot tonight (8 hrs from now) and repost.

Thanks again

 

Update: I used a toothbrush and some subaru upper engine cleaner to scrub off some carbon, and did the BMW fuel system cleaning (the one that uses a standalone fuel pump and tank filled with solvent and fuel). Obviously because I used a toothbrush, I couldn't clean the valves all that well, but I could clean the surroundings quite well, and got a LOT of gunk out. All to no avail. Made zero difference.

I bought an Auterra DashDyno SPD ProPack (just quietly, the thing is AMAZING).

I logged AFR, Boost, Timing Advance, RPM, Intake Manifold Pressure, and Fuel Rail Pressure, using 4th gear from 2000-4700 RPM. I logged two runs, one using my Stock ECU map, and the other using Jan's tune. I've attached both pics, feel free to have a look and see what you think.

 

What exactly are you symptoms again (and yes I looked at the other thread)? Have you ever had a P1497 code?

if you are under the hood and shut down the engine can you hear a slight vacuums leak that goes a few seconds longer than the engine.?

is it a euro car? nif not have you cleaned you MAS

 

The symptoms are:

1) A fluttering noise from 3000-4000rpm
2) Car stumbles under acceleration (throttle control is difficult)
3) Car doesn't feel as fast as it should (people with JCWs and RMW tunes say the car is incredibly fast, mine doesn't feel that fast). I know this last one is subjective, btw.

1) I cannot hear any vacuum leak, and I've done a "smoke test" for leaks, and I couldn't find any leaks whatsoever. Also changed MAP sensor and diverter valve, but I haven't cleaned my MAF sensor yet (yes it's a Euro car).

No codes at all.

 

my 2008 MCS was one of the hard ones for Jan to tune. Mine had very bad "hickups " at 2500 and 3000 rpm and it seemed to have what I called Ashma, it would try to go, but just wouldnt in 1st and second. it seemed slower than without the tune. I was also getting codes....

oh and when I switched back to the stock tune, it was still a little bit weird.

Jan sent me his "high boost" tune and it fixed all of my issues.

 

Check out this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-for-hpfp.html. There's a PDF with a sample letter. I didn't get a letter in the mail so I complained to BMW Canada and they gave me an email stating that i was in fact covered for 10 years.

Whoever said it was a lie should have a read of this book

 

Haha, thanks for that buddy, I'll be taking to the dealer on Saturday morning for a right old tongue-lashing.

Chakraj, mine definitely feels faster, just not as fast as it "should," which makes sense, because my timing advance is very low, even being retarded past TDC.

I'm running Jan's high boost tune, and tried about 5 others.

 

looks to be running pretty rich on the high boost run. readings do not show much difference in timing curve. Looks as its over fueling, if you see in the high boost run that boost (20psi) and fuel ratio(12:1) both stay about the same from 6 seconds on. compared to normal tune where fueling adds on the second boost increase. mini programmed in an overboost where it hits full boost. comes down a bit then boosts up again as you can see. I am not a tuner but your tuner should be able to figure something out with the reading you have provided.

 

its been awhile now, i currently dont own a mini anymore but when i did i had some similar issues.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-external.html

 

The main problem you had was boost deviation yeah? My car boosts fine, the boost holds nicely at 22.4psi quite consistently. I swapped out my diverter valve earlier on with my brother's 2010 JCW, and it made no difference :(

Thanks for contributing however much appreciated

 

Just going to throw this out there. I just spent about eight dollars on a can of MAF cleaner and my boost loss problem is now fixed. Through data logging with OBDCOM I discovered that my MINI was running too lean and the ECU was compensating by restricting the throttle plate.

It took several days of data logging and some help from BostonR56 to get to the bottom of the problem.

The MAF sensor was contaminated with dirt and oil which resulted in false readings. Once I cleaned the MAF sensor I have had no more problems.

I had been fighting this problem since December. The dealer had it for a week and they did not resolve the issue. Not because they did not try. I suspect most dealers don't data log.

I poured over 41 pages of data logging for several days until I saw the trend.

 

Precisely what I thought, consequently I thought I'd not only clean, but swap them over with my brother's JCW. So I cleaned and swapped over my MAF and MAP sensors.

I'm going to try swap over our O2 sensors later tonight, because I can't think of anything else to do at all.