Any updates ?!!??! I still haven't gone in as I'm waiting on parts to arrive for other work at the Dealership.

 

The MINI is still at the dealer. It required some other repairs which they just completed (serpentine belt, thermostat housing, water temperature sensor, coolant flush).

Cooling system needed work because I was getting codes saying the MINI was not running hot enough (P0128 and 2F07).

I also had the ECU re-flashed. They will check it out tonight and I will get with them in the morning. They say it's running great so we'll see. With the JCW tune the hunting is very subtle (40-70 RPM) and easily missed if your not paying attention. The vacuum bounces 1 inch. When I run the RMW tune is much more noticeable (40-90 RPM). The vacuum bounces 2 inches with the RMW tune.

Also, I use to see about 23 inches of vacuum on deceleration. I now only see 18 inches of vacuum on deceleration. I smell a vacuum/boost leak.

 

MINI back from dealer. Water temp back to normal. Hunting still there. All indications point to a vacuum/boost leak. Dealer unable to locate with current procedures. Also not throwing any codes.

Vacuum only exsists in the intake manifold. I will tear into it tomorrow. More to follow.

 

Still working this issue. I spent about 5 hours Saturday going over the entire intake manifold system and found a leak using the propane vacuum leak detection method. When I induced propane to the area around the capped off old PCV tube connection point on the redesigned intake manifold the MINI would almost stall (see attached pictures).




I duplicated this result on three different occasions.

When I originally installed the manifold I checked the cap and it did not move at all. That was not the case Saturday. It would easily spin. I removed the cap, clean it, applied black RTV sealer and reinstalled the cap. Had the cap moved at all prior to installing the new manifold I would have sealed it up prior to installation. I removed the hose connected above it and applied the same treatment. I performed tightness checks on the entire intake system.

Overall things are much better but I dont feel the work is finished. There is a difference of 3 inches of vacuum between my boost gauge and the Scangauge. Both read in the same area. I will be replacing the boost gauge line Friday.

I also ordered the o-rings for the intake manifold to throttle body and throttle body to head. I suspect I might have not tightened these enough on the initial installation and the o-rings might be damaged.

I hope to have good news on Saturday. Wish me luck!!!

 

Finished replacing the boost gauge line and no change in the vacuum reading. I will replace all of the intake manifold o-rings on Friday. I was also clued in by a friend to check the intake manifold for a possible crack.

 

Scott, if I lived close enough, I'd be right there giving you a hand with all this work. I can't thank you enough for your efforts here. Good stuff.


I will add this. I just find it VERY strange that both you and I had this issue AFTER we replaced our spark plugs. I mentioned this to my Mini service manager and he said they did have a bad go of plugs for a while. I'm still wondering if this is not the case here or is somehow related to the issue at hand?!?!?

 

Yeah thanks guys! Your posts have been great to read.

I have been waiting till I got another engine malfunction light before I take mine into the mechanic. Anyway it happened this morning so I'm all book for Monday, and will update you as to my results.
I have actually noticed that in the morning it can start much rougher than usual. I was thinking that this was all related, and could point to the Fuel Pump?.... We will wait and see i guess.

I'll keep you posted.

 

Scott, I thought the scangauge could not accurately read boost. I think it is dependent upon your elevation, and you have to program that in. The difference between the two gauges could just be the scanguage's calculations.

I just ordered a boost gauge partly for this reason. I go up and down a mountain to work. It's mostly because I want to watch the boost though.

 

Thanks for the extended help offer. Ive got this operation down to a science now. I should be done with everything in about three hours.

I would think a plug issue would throw a mis-fire code....

As for the Scangauge, I Live in Mystic, CT which is pretty much at sea level. I set the gauge for sea level and before I started with the issues everything tracked very closely. The only thing with the scangauge, when reading vacuum multiply that number by two.

I picked up another intake manifold from the dealer today in case mine is cracked and needs to be replaced while I'm under the bonnet. The dealer told me that since I just replaced it, if it's cracked they will cover it under the parts warranty.

With any luck this will be a closed issue tomorrow afternoon.

Did I mention how much I love my MINI dealer? They are OUTSTANDING!!!!!

 

I'm happy to report that the hunting is GONE!!! I did not replace the intake manifold as mine was just fine. I did replace the gaskets on all mounting surfaces of the intake manifold.

The idle is smooth and the vacuum reading is steady.

 

That's outstanding. Great news.

List of gaskets and part numbers??? And can you fly up to Toronto (kidding). I'm assuming that we're talking about all the o-rings from the intake manifold to the throttle body and the throttle body to the head as you noted above.

One thing did pop into my head about this. You have removed your intake manifold for various reasons. I've never touched mine nor do I believe the dealership has either. Hmmmmmmmmm.

 

Hi Guys

Well, our problems could be unrelated. My findings are a little different.
I got my Coup back on Thursday after taking it in on Monday, and have had a few days now to check that it is actually fixed.
Monday firstly they decided to change fuel filters but had to order one in so it would take more than one day. So Tuesday it was tested, the filter was black with gunk (rather than orange), apparently these are supposed to be lifetime filters, but people are getting them changed every 50k, mine is at 60k.
After being tested it had the same rough start problems that sometimes intermittently come, kinda luckily it was at the mechanics when it happened so he could scan it. A "P3091" error was there (which doesn't seem to store in the comp as it has happened before but there was no record of it), so this points to the High pressure fuel pump, so we replaced this (approx $1000) but they had to order one in again, so it would be Wednesday night before i got it back.
Since then there has been no problems, no rough starts, no idel hunting.
I'm stoked (except for the $), touch wood it stays fixed!

Hope this helps somebody

 

I know they call those fuel filters "lifetime"no way.After 50,000 change them and you won't believe how blackened they are.Makes such a difference in idle and performance.....Some mechanics outside dealership won't touch because you have to take out the back seat.If you DIY make sure you run the fuel almost empty as to prevent fuel getting everywhere.Its a pretty easy job and well worth it.

 

I had the exact same thing happen to me this week.

I replaced spark plugs and the idle moves from 1100 down to 800 and I also hear the vacuum louder than before.

I replaced the ignition wires to see if I had cracked a boot or something and it ran great for a few mins then the idle issue came back.

I have not checked to see what code it throws yet. I will keep you guys posted.

It is not a coincidence that all 3 of us had the idle issue right after replacing plugs.

 

I have no updates as of yet. My Clubman S isn't scheduled to go in until next wednesday. The issue has been a bit better as it's not acting up so much lately, although I threw a check engine light again last week. I'm having a hell of a time trying to resolve the issues that lead up to this idling problem. I can't replicate any specific circumstances.

Of note, I asked my service manager about the fuel filter AND he said there isn't one on this car. WTF !?!?


I'm still leaning on this whole spark pull issue. There has to be something there messing this car up. That's at least three cars that I know of that now have had this issue after spark plug replacement.

 

The fuel filter is in the fuel tank. I replaced my filter at 50K miles. Sounds like your MSA is clueless!

 

I have a VERY exciting update!

I backtracked my work when I changed my plugs and my ignition wires. I took off the intake because i had a hard time removing plug boot #3. anyway, when i took the intake off the second time, i found that i had crimped the edge of the black rubber duct on the side of the intake.

I was allowing a tiny bit of air into the intake and that caused the idle to surge from 1200 down to 800 and back up. It also threw the following codes:

P1109
P1245
P1389 (i think)

Anyway, i pulled the rubber boot back flush and screwed the intake back down. Reset my codes with the OBD tool and voila!

Mini is fully functional and idles great!

I would check your intake and vacuum lines. They can Pop out somewhat easy.

 

Mine goes into the Dealership today. I'm going to pass all this information onto them. It would be SO nice to resolve this issue once and for all.

 

Ok, here's an update. BTW, I've thrown three yellow check engine lights and NOTHING stored in the computer. WTF !??!?!?? Car has been in since last Wednesday evening. I got a call on Friday. They have been pulling their hair out apparently. They cannot find ANYTHING wrong with my Mini that would cause the check engine light or the idle fluctuations. NOTHING. They've tested everything, pulled stuff out, put it back, up one side and down the other, smoke test, checked all the gaskets. Zippo. Nadda.

FARK

They're keeping it over the weekend and another one of their mechanics is coming in to work only on my car to find the problem. So today I wait to hear. I can't fault the dealership. I'm assuming that their mechanics are good and know their stuff. I'm expecting worse case and thinking Mini Canada as a next step. My biggest concern is say I wanted to sell this thing RIGHT NOW. I'd have a hell of a time considering potential buyers would find this issue and likely run away. And it wasn't like the money I paid Mini for this car was half rotten.

 

Have you ever gotten any of the codes for a cylinder misfire? I had very similar symptoms happen to my 07 S a few months back and after the dealer replaced the HPFP, the spark plugs, the whole damn ECU ( along w/ a reflash) the culprit was the timing belt tensioner. Have them check that out (especially if you're still inside the warranty, otherwise it's gonna be ~$1500 to repair, like mine was. )

 

Anyone know the level of difficulty to check the timing chain tensioner?

 

If you take it to the dealer it's really easy. :D

 

Did that and just got the MINI back. It went in for a new water pump.

I had them check the timing chain tensioner and it was bad.

Was replaced a little over two years ago to I had to pay for the replacement!!

Regardless, MINI is much happier and quieter now at idle.

 

So...... I have my Mini back. Driving it about a week now and so far no idle jumping (knock on wood). They replaced the HPFP, new valve cover gasket, and a bunch of other stuff. Anyways, so this is a step in the right direction.


HOWEVER..........


It still seems to be mildly struggling at idle and sounds kind of *farty* out of the exhaust. A gentle *pooty* sound if thjat makes sense. Anyone have any thoughts about that condition ?!?!?!? I seem to be SO close here to having this issue resolved. But not there yet. Air filter, intake tract deposits ?!!??!? Gahhhh!!

 

HPFP replaced. Problem solved. I have the same problem at 8000 miles. I have 18000 miles now and no problems now since HPFP was replaced.