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DIY: How to wreck your engine

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  #26  
Old 03-19-2011, 03:57 PM
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"How would I or how could I attempt to seek some reimbursement from the insurance company? Don't want to scam, but the comment about the flooding raised my brow. There was no noise until after the car was submerged." If one cylinder ingested too much water - possible.

An oil problem would take out the bearings - the engine siezes.

Is the engine running? if so, does it have a miss? any noise? banging? The more we know, the more you'll know.

Westchester, New Rochell, Yonkers, Fleetwood = where I grew up. I get to the city as often as possible. In fact I need to be at 66th & Broadway Monday. Ask someone a little older if they remember the 8th Wonder, 8th street between 5th & 6th, I played there in the 60s - drums, early funk, soul, R&B, no disco, no folk, no country or western, bubble gum, grunge, punk or polka ( it's blg, big letters BIB here ).
 
  #27  
Old 03-20-2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MINIdave
The housing was loose because you didn't tighten it properly, not because of an accident. The housing has an o'ring that engages the housing to the body it fits into - I think you got it to the point where the o'ring was in contact and you quit turning it. However, it goes on quite a bit more from there.

Either that or you cross threaded it, which is also easy to do on that filter.
[

Thanks David.

The housing was hand loose BEFORE we did the work. I bough the massive socket and socket wrench, specifically for the purpose of safely tightening the housing. Yes, I destroyed a piston... but no, I do not strip or cross threads.

Since i tightened it quite snug with my socket wrench, i think the new o-ring was just fine.

As for your comment regarding rebuild:

Originally Posted by MINIdave
Bottom line, rebuilding an engine is not a negotiation, you don't propose a price to the mechanic, he knows what it's going to take in terms of labor and parts, he adds it all up and that's what it costs. Prices can vary because of differing labor rates and the cost of parts. Non-factory parts can be bought for less, but often they're not as good - sometimes they are. You'll be taking the guess here, when you pay for the job.

You could take a vo-tech course and rebuild your own engine as part of that course, that would save you a lot of money but take some time....

The simplest, quickest and least expensive way would be to buy a used engine and exchange yours. that will have you back on the road and let you get some use out fo the car still.....
If a mechanic knows the price of the parts (OEM/Reburbed OEM), why was his 77k engine $4,500 when I can buy it now a 50k engine for $2750 on ebay?! OEM is OEM. $1750 os $1750

Your suggestion that a vo-tech course cold be a viable option makes me question whether or not you've read through this thread... I am a musician that makes peanuts and lives in brooklyn, ny.

Sorry if i sounded cranky... I've had a rough weekend.
 
  #28  
Old 03-20-2011, 08:07 PM
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UPDATE:
My father was at bmw of westchester/mini and spoke with a "extremely knowledgeable salesman" regarding my issue. My dad was there for other business, so he inquired. Naturally, the dealership wouldn't even take the car. We all know this. But guy-dude-man Mini rep claimed I could get $5k if I listed it on cars.com.
Claimed I just had to wait for the right person that wants to rebuild it.
 
  #29  
Old 03-20-2011, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kerikino
[

Thanks David.

The housing was hand loose BEFORE we did the work. I bough the massive socket and socket wrench, specifically for the purpose of safely tightening the housing. Yes, I destroyed a piston... but no, I do not strip or cross threads.

Since i tightened it quite snug with my socket wrench, i think the new o-ring was just fine.

As for your comment regarding rebuild:



If a mechanic knows the price of the parts (OEM/Reburbed OEM), why was his 77k engine $4,500 when I can buy it now a 50k engine for $2750 on ebay?! OEM is OEM. $1750 os $1750

Your suggestion that a vo-tech course cold be a viable option makes me question whether or not you've read through this thread... I am a musician that makes peanuts and lives in brooklyn, ny.

Sorry if i sounded cranky... I've had a rough weekend.
I made my comments precisely because you are a musician who admits to knowing nothing about car repairs and with no experience......

Wheras I've been doing this my whole adult life and made my living doing it for 30 years or so......

But I readily admit to not knowing which end of a musical instruement to hold - each to his own strengths.

What, they don't have vo-tech courses in Brooklyn or you don't think you could get in one?

Just because what I had to say didn't meet with what you wanted to hear doesn't mean I don't know what I'm saying. You've made some ridiculous statements in this tread, you've rambled all over the place in your comments, but the bottom line is (I think) you have a bad engine you'll either need to replace as cheaply as possible or rebuild - or sell the car. I offered two suggestions, sorry you didn't like them.

No one will pay much for a car with a blown engine and high miles - certainly not $5k - you're dreaming on that one - if the engine is in fact blown up. As to Mr. Extremely Knowledgeable Salesman, unless he's offering you $5k in dead presidents, what he said means nothing.

BTW, if you "snugged" your oil filter cannister up, that means to me you didn't get it seated properly and tight enough.

From here on you're on your own. Good luck.
 
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