Cold start rattle as 64k, Options?
#1
Cold start rattle as 64k, Options?
So I'm getting the cold start rattle again at 64,000 miles. Its an 07 S. I first had it looked at at 20,000 miles and they bled the oil system. The rattle came back. At 35,000 miles in Nov. 09 I took it in again they did SIM 11 02 07. Found the distance to be 67mm. They replaced the chain tensioner only with PN-11-31-7-597-895. It seemed good for a while.
Now I'm beyond the standard warranty with no extended warranty. I was just looking at the sim again and it appears they installed the wrong chain tensioner. They Installed the one for doing the chain, guides, ect. but they didn't do all of that stuff.
So what are my options now? I'm wanting to take it in and get it fixed soon. What should I expect?
Eric
Now I'm beyond the standard warranty with no extended warranty. I was just looking at the sim again and it appears they installed the wrong chain tensioner. They Installed the one for doing the chain, guides, ect. but they didn't do all of that stuff.
So what are my options now? I'm wanting to take it in and get it fixed soon. What should I expect?
Eric
Last edited by eric0919; 03-27-2011 at 04:55 PM.
#3
So I'm getting the cold start rattle again at 64,000 miles. Its an 07 S. I first had it looked at at 20,000 miles and they bled the oil system. The rattle came back. At 35,000 miles in Nov. 09 I took it in again they did SIM 11 02 07. Found the distance to be 67mm. They replaced the chain tensioner only with PN-11-31-7-597-895. It seemed good for a while.
Now I'm beyond the standard warranty with no extended warranty. I was just looking at the sim again and it appears they installed the wrong chain tensioner. They Installed the one for doing the chain, guides, ect. but they didn't do all of that stuff.
So what are my options now? I'm wanting to take it in and get it fixed soon. What should I expect?
Eric
Now I'm beyond the standard warranty with no extended warranty. I was just looking at the sim again and it appears they installed the wrong chain tensioner. They Installed the one for doing the chain, guides, ect. but they didn't do all of that stuff.
So what are my options now? I'm wanting to take it in and get it fixed soon. What should I expect?
Eric
Should have been the longer updated one ending in 551. Double check your paperwork.
#4
Here's the invoice.
I never notice until I got the paper back out today and looked at the SIM. but it appears they messed up.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
I never notice until I got the paper back out today and looked at the SIM. but it appears they messed up.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
#5
I have a 08 clubman s with 20000 miles on it and on a cold start it sounds like something is rattling, but it goes away once everything is warmed up, is this the same thing or am I experianceing something else?? I ask because my warranty runs out in may....
Last edited by spanglersplace; 03-27-2011 at 07:26 PM.
#7
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#10
#11
Here's the invoice.
I never notice until I got the paper back out today and looked at the SIM. but it appears they messed up.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
I never notice until I got the paper back out today and looked at the SIM. but it appears they messed up.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Could be two things.
The old part was used, and thus should be removed, chain deflection checked and the new tensioner installed.
New part was used, but old part number logged in. In that case, you need another appointment to have the other 11 tensioner / parts swapped out.
Call your SA and explain what happened. They will make it right.
#12
#13
#14
#15
Just buy the new correct tensioner, it's not that expensive and screws right into the side of the head - easy peazy. 1 hour job, tops!
Of course, if you are still within the 2yr window, absolutely take it back to them and make them do it, and make sure they use the new tensioner (which was not available till mid 2009 IIRC) - then get another 2 years worth out of them.....
Of course, if you are still within the 2yr window, absolutely take it back to them and make them do it, and make sure they use the new tensioner (which was not available till mid 2009 IIRC) - then get another 2 years worth out of them.....
#16
Be careful with the 2 year stuff. I had mine replaced before the warranty expired and then it happened again less than a year later. At that time my warranty had expired and they said that they wouldn't fix it unless I was up to date on all my service. I've done my oil changes, brakes, and filter element myself but they didn't care. I got MINI USA involved and they told me the same thing. I fought it and guess what.........I still have a noisy tensioner. All I can say is make sure you're CONSTANTLY checking your oil levels. I set my odometer so I put a quart of oil in every 1000 miles.
#17
Does your car NEED a quart every 1000 miles? Overfilling can be as bad as running it low. Did you have records of all your maintenance work?
I mark my service book everytime I change the oil and filer, as well as every time the dealer does a service - since they have the computer records they don't bother with the book anymore, but I do! I also keep all my rec't to back up when I did it, and I only buy my filter and oil from the dealer. If I ever have an out of warranty situation like you, at least I'll have plenty of documentation to support my claim!
If you're sure it's your tensioner you're hearing, why don't you fix it yourself, or have an independant shop do it, are you just waiting for it to blow up? It doesn't make sense that you haven't gone ahead and fixed it as it is guaranteed to cost you more if you let it go.
Just the tensioner is not expensive (<$50)and it's an easy bolt in part - unscrew the old one, screw in the new and torque to 48 ft.lbs. Done.
I mark my service book everytime I change the oil and filer, as well as every time the dealer does a service - since they have the computer records they don't bother with the book anymore, but I do! I also keep all my rec't to back up when I did it, and I only buy my filter and oil from the dealer. If I ever have an out of warranty situation like you, at least I'll have plenty of documentation to support my claim!
If you're sure it's your tensioner you're hearing, why don't you fix it yourself, or have an independant shop do it, are you just waiting for it to blow up? It doesn't make sense that you haven't gone ahead and fixed it as it is guaranteed to cost you more if you let it go.
Just the tensioner is not expensive (<$50)and it's an easy bolt in part - unscrew the old one, screw in the new and torque to 48 ft.lbs. Done.
Last edited by MINIdave; 03-28-2011 at 05:32 PM.
#19
Does your car NEED a quart every 1000 miles? Overfilling can be as bad as running it low. Did you have records of all your maintenance work?
I mark my service book everytime I change the oil and filer, as well as every time the dealer does a service - since they have the computer records they don't bother with the book anymore, but I do! I also keep all my rec't to back up when I did it, and I only buy my filter and oil from the dealer. If I ever have an out of warranty situation like you, at least I'll have plenty of documentation to support my claim!
If you're sure it's your tensioner you're hearing, why don't you fix it yourself, or have an independant shop do it, are you just waiting for it to blow up? It doesn't make sense that you haven't gone ahead and fixed it as it is guaranteed to cost you more if you let it go.
Just the tensioner is not expensive (<$50)and it's an easy bolt in part - unscrew the old one, screw in the new and torque to 48 ft.lbs. Done.
I mark my service book everytime I change the oil and filer, as well as every time the dealer does a service - since they have the computer records they don't bother with the book anymore, but I do! I also keep all my rec't to back up when I did it, and I only buy my filter and oil from the dealer. If I ever have an out of warranty situation like you, at least I'll have plenty of documentation to support my claim!
If you're sure it's your tensioner you're hearing, why don't you fix it yourself, or have an independant shop do it, are you just waiting for it to blow up? It doesn't make sense that you haven't gone ahead and fixed it as it is guaranteed to cost you more if you let it go.
Just the tensioner is not expensive (<$50)and it's an easy bolt in part - unscrew the old one, screw in the new and torque to 48 ft.lbs. Done.
#20
OK, you're saying the chain is stretched, not that the tensioner is bad (although it probably is also)
I understand about maybe not having the $1600 to fix it, but it will cost way way way more than that if it breaks! If it's loose enough to be making noise, it's probably dragging metal off the inside of the case - that can't be good either.....
I think I'd still replace the tensioner now, it's cheap and it might take up some of the slack and allow you to go till you can afford the rest of the repairs. Unless of course, it's under the two year repair warranty.....is it?
I understand about maybe not having the $1600 to fix it, but it will cost way way way more than that if it breaks! If it's loose enough to be making noise, it's probably dragging metal off the inside of the case - that can't be good either.....
I think I'd still replace the tensioner now, it's cheap and it might take up some of the slack and allow you to go till you can afford the rest of the repairs. Unless of course, it's under the two year repair warranty.....is it?
#21
OK, you're saying the chain is stretched, not that the tensioner is bad (although it probably is also)
I understand about maybe not having the $1600 to fix it, but it will cost way way way more than that if it breaks! If it's loose enough to be making noise, it's probably dragging metal off the inside of the case - that can't be good either.....
I think I'd still replace the tensioner now, it's cheap and it might take up some of the slack and allow you to go till you can afford the rest of the repairs. Unless of course, it's under the two year repair warranty.....is it?
I understand about maybe not having the $1600 to fix it, but it will cost way way way more than that if it breaks! If it's loose enough to be making noise, it's probably dragging metal off the inside of the case - that can't be good either.....
I think I'd still replace the tensioner now, it's cheap and it might take up some of the slack and allow you to go till you can afford the rest of the repairs. Unless of course, it's under the two year repair warranty.....is it?
#22
That's conflicting..... "Replace with updated tensioner" but the old part number was entered into the field below
Could be two things.
The old part was used, and thus should be removed, chain deflection checked and the new tensioner installed.
New part was used, but old part number logged in. In that case, you need another appointment to have the other 11 tensioner / parts swapped out.
Call your SA and explain what happened. They will make it right.
Could be two things.
The old part was used, and thus should be removed, chain deflection checked and the new tensioner installed.
New part was used, but old part number logged in. In that case, you need another appointment to have the other 11 tensioner / parts swapped out.
Call your SA and explain what happened. They will make it right.
I asked the SA if he thought the right work was done last time and he didn't seem to know. I didn't get out all my paperwork to argue that they messed up yet.
We will see.
Eric
#23
Dreyer and Reinbold Just told me I was SOL. They did the SIM as specified a year and half ago and the only part under warranty was the chain tensioner itself. 64,000 miles is "way out of warranty!"
"Further diagnosis is at shop rate"
"Further diagnosis is at shop rate"
#24
So becasue the procedure was wrong then, the "fix" was only partial. Therefore their bad decision at the time is now your turn to pay? Sounds lame and maybe worth pushing a one time good-will type of agreement. They need ot make it right but at an appropriate cost since they "tried" to fix it before.
#25
I don't see it that way.....they did what was necessary at the time (mine has only had just the tensioner replaced too) and if the OP has had noise since, it was up to them to get it back to the dealer and get it fixed - full monty, while it was still under warranty. The fact that when the car went out of warranty at 50K it was fine, and has been for 14K more miles means the MFR's responsibility is long over with. If it hasn't been fine in the interim, it's not the dealer's fault that the OP didn't take it back and get it fixed.
Now the owner will have to pay to have the chains, guides etc replaced.
However, given how many of these they've seen, I'd certainly ask for some help from MINI USA, too. If nothing else, have them put in the latest tensioner now, under the parts warranty.
I had my car in for an alignment the other day and asked the SA if they're still seeing these come in and he said they saw a lot of it a couple years ago but it's rare to have one anymore......
Now the owner will have to pay to have the chains, guides etc replaced.
However, given how many of these they've seen, I'd certainly ask for some help from MINI USA, too. If nothing else, have them put in the latest tensioner now, under the parts warranty.
I had my car in for an alignment the other day and asked the SA if they're still seeing these come in and he said they saw a lot of it a couple years ago but it's rare to have one anymore......