Good evening all,
Something in my clutch system died today. Clutch had been engaging with the pedal only ~1/3 off the floor (kind of spongy, but it worked okay, I guess) - today it didn't come back up. The pedal will not disengage the clutch and will not return back to normal (neutral) height. It's not flopping around and I can easily pull it up by hand, but there's not much resistance when I push it back down.

Can't find a DIY for bleeding the clutch system. Been searching the forums here but I can't find an answer to: what spring mechanism actually makes the pedal return to it's "full-up" position? I know it has a rather weak return spring on the pedal arm, but would a dead slave cylinder (alone) allow the pedal to stay on the floor? Is it the actual pressure plate springs which push back on the bearing, then the lever, then the slave, then the master, to push the pedal back up? Does the fluid actually flow backwards to accomplish this?

With the slave cylinder off the mount, should I be able to push/move the clutch throwout lever with my foot/leg (as the slave does in normal operation)? If I can't, is this a sign of a fubar'd throw-out bearing? (Haven't tried this yet, btw.)

There is some residual fluid on the plastic lower engine cover. Obviously, the slave is leaking (not from the dust boot, though). I'm planning on replacing the slave on Monday but I want to make sure that's the only problem.

I'm not replacing the master cylinder just yet - it looks fine on the outside, and no leakage inside the cabin. I'd rather not throw $75 parts at the car for no reason, but if I do change out the M/C does the fluid feed line just press onto the top of it during installation - is just a nipple?

Bleeding: as far as I can tell, the push-on tube on the side of the brake fluid reservoir (which, mine is full) is what feeds the master cylinder; then the M/C pushes fluid down the metal (and sometimes flexible) tube to the slave. I don't see a way to bleed the M/C. Do I bleed it all through the slave?

Finally, because my reservoir is still full, it's apparent that the clutch hydraulic system isn't drawing fluid from it. I'm a new owner, so I have no idea what the PO did or didn't do. Car has just over 100K on it ('06 R53).

Ultimately, if I do have to replace the clutch kit, what price range am I looking at - respectable import repair shop, non-dealership - for parts & labor (in Austin, TX)?

Any tips and suggestions are welcomed.

 

It sounds like your slave cyl. has bitten the dust.
The clutch hydraulics are part of the brake hydraulic system.
You are going to need a slave cyl. compressor to push the cyl. rod down to insert it in it's mounting point.
You will also need brake fluid.
Since you do not know the history of the car, it is probally a good time to flush out the brake system as well.
Get more brake fluid, ATE Blue.
Would suggest you get a Bentley service manual.
The MINI owners bible.
It will show how to do all sorts of repairs.
It has a lot of dirty pictures in it.

 

Hey man. I just experienced the same issue with my car, only 3 weeks after buying it. The dealer, who offered me an extended warranty and said they would fix anything for 3 months, of course is saying they won't do anything because my problem is the actual clutch plate, not the master cylinder.

The car shifted and ran fine, until one day I noticed it would stay down, not springing back up, then the next day it won't do a thing, it doesn't engage any gears.

I've own manual cars all my life, a clutch going back usually gives you the signs of slipping when in gear, not the pedal moving freely with no pressure whatsoever.

Did you fix it? was it the master cylinder?