I will look around, talked to shop this evening and they said the warranty is covering the tensioner and the claims guy is trying to get the whole assembly done even though it wasn't to that point because of some bulletin issued by mini. Has to get supervisor approval in the morning. So hopefully by Monday this will be resolved.

 

It has got worse since my last posting, now I can hear the chain just above 1000 rpm and at 1800 rpm only with very light throttle input. I believe that the high pitched clicking/clacking noise is when I shift into 3rd gear under heavy throttle input, the chain is jerked when throttle off then throttle on during shifting.

I've park it until I have it towed to Irvine Mini! I can reproduce the sounds for the dealer so a video isn't necessary, I just hope they listen to me without blowing me off! Besides since the noise comes from the passenger side I'll drive so they can listen. I got a 6-year/100,000 mile warranty so everything should be fine I hope.

Does anyone know if your supposed to pay your deductible before or after the warranty work is complete? I purchased my MCS not even two and half months ago, surely they might be sympathetic and wave the deductible!

 

Good luck getting them to wave the deductible, mine was 34 days old and I still had to pay it.

 

We all know that this should be a recall and not cost us a dime! Can you say design flaw/defect!? It's far too widespread to be considered anything else.

 

It looks like the timing chain (measurement) tensioner tool is: MINI Cooper S R56 Special Tool 11 9 340 - from: http://promini.bmpdesign.coresense.c...gine-Noise.pdf

My Google search only finds the complete kit for ~$300 and would be needed if the chain and guides are going to be replaced.

I only want to check the measurement. Can anyone provide the link to purchase just the measurement tool? The dealer wants over $100 to do it.

 

I think this is what you need:

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...M-BMW6222.html

 

What does this tool measure, the Tensioner or the timing chain slack?

 

Yeah, someone should do a quite up on this. Since mine is getting replaced, it's not a issue for the moment, but want to start checking out every 10k at home

 

Yeah to which question? Does it measure the chain or Tensioner?

 

It measures the slack in the timing chain. If you have the TSB for the timing chain issues it will tell you at what length the slack justifies replacing the whole timing chain cartridge versus just putting in a new tensioner.

There is someone here on the site taking periodic measurements of his chain to monitor how it is getting stretched over time.

 

I think 68-72mm it's just the tensioner and greater than that is the whole assembly.

 

I have read 68mm being the limit for timing chain slack, I have read this in more than one thread so I pretty sure.

 

At 69 my dealer replaced the Tensioner

 

Sounds like I am now a victim of the dreaded timing chain death rattle. Pulled into my garage here at home and heard it. I've called my insurer to have it towed to MINI of Portland tomorrow morning. That is probably the way to go, right? Have it towed in?

 

Might be overkill, might not be. If your insurance is doing it chances are there are no repercussions if the dealer doesn't find anything wrong.
Just a heads up, if it's out of warranty, it's a couple hundred just to have it evaluated.

 

Since you are in no position to judge the severity, I would have it towed to the dealer with a big note taped on the steering wheel, "DO NOT START UNTIL TIMING CHAIN SLACK IS MEASURED".

Have them read your instructions back to on the work order you prepare in advance over the phone.

Have them give you a firm price over the phone for measuring the slack. (It takes about 30 min.) If it is up to 72mm, have them install the "long" tensioner. (I bought one at my dealer for $35.) This will buy you some time until you need to do the "full" replacement. Above 72, I would still go with the long tensioner, but immediately find an independent shop to do the "full" replacement right away. They will usually do it for 1/2 of the typical dealer $2400.

DOC

 

Just thought I'd report back.

Had the car towed in first thing this morning. Was met at MINI of Portland by one of the mechanics (or whatever MINI calls them) who had read my comments on the online appointment setting I made. He and 3 other mechanics pushed my car into the lineup area. I asked if my chances of getting a loaner were about 0% and he said he didn't think my chances were bad at all. I went inside where a SA asked me to be a little clearer on the description of what was going on. I described it and he stated that it might not be the death rattle "as so many on the internet like to call it, and it might not be covered by MINI as so many like to say." He wanted the mechanic who met me to verify that there even was a rattle so he had no choice but to start my car. After a split second he said "Yep, that's the rattle." The SA did have me sign an estimate that it might cost me $120 for them to dig around and again that I might have to pay for the repair as it might be my fault. I pointed out to him that he could see I had my car in for all the maintenance as required and that even though it is a 2007, it only has 35,000 miles on it. He said he hopes it is something MINI will take care of because then everybody wins and gets what they want. I then got hooked up with a sweet silver Countryman as a loaner (although it is MUCH bigger than I'd care to drive on a regular basis).

To make a long story even longer, I got a call from the SA saying that it was indeed the timing chain and that MINI is taking care of it as a good will gesture (I think that is what they called it) so no charge to me! And while it was in there, they even changed my brake fluid as part of the extended maintenance plan. So a big to MINI of Portland for taking such excellent care of me from the minute my car was off-loaded from the towing service flatbed.

 

+1 MCS 07 i had to do the timing chain tensioner only. i was lucky and caught it before it caused any serious damage.

 

So what did it measure and exactly what did they do?

DOC

 

One time goodwill by MINI of Portland to promote brand loyalty. Send for field authorization 96343. P1, verified rattling noise is coming from the timing chain. Measure timing chain deflection. Deflection measured 73mm. P2, replaced timing chain as per sim 110207. P3, during timing chain replacement, found upper timing chain guide broken. Removed oil pan to remove broken pieces of chain guide. P4, programmed vehicle as per sim 110207. Cold started vehicle. Engine is operating normally at this time.

 

Exactly my story

 

Looks like you got a pretty thorough repair. 73mm is definitely time to pull the trigger on full replacement. Nice that they bothered to pull the pan.

You did not mention tensioner replacement. If not replaced, this does not concern me since I do not believe the tensioner "wears". With otherwise all new parts, you do not need the "long" tensioner,

I would check the slack in 15 K miles from now and every 10K thereafter. When you get to 68mm, install "long" tensioner. Had you had that installed with 73mm, I do not think you would have heard the rattle, but you do NOT want to let it get that far. You are in danger of slipping teeth once the rattle starts.

Another N12/14 pulled back from the edge of disaster.........

DOC

 

Among the items listed on the paperwork are:

chain tensioner 113050 and
chain tensioner 113055

 

I have 11314609483 for the "short" and 11314609482 for the "long" tensioner.

DOC

 

Hello Everyone,

First post here. I recently bought a JCW Clubman from Belgium. 57.890 km in the odo, dealer verified, etc... I covered 1500 km during the last week and the car ran great even when I hit 200kms/h on the highway. It is tough to correctly measure the oil level, but I think it is ok.
I need your advice. As a preventive action I would like to replace the tensioner with the upgraded part. Private mechanic would easily do that, however I am not sure that the "longer" tensioner would over-stress the plastic guides or not. I've read two posts related to that. No death rattle sound (yet)... What do you think, shall I wait until the next inspection (@67.000 km) and check the oil level on a regular basis or get an appointment do the chain slack now?

Btw oil level.... During the 1500 kms trip, I checked at least 3 times, all over the time I saw the level 1 cm higher than the max of the dipstick. When I replaced the thermostat house the "engineer" checked the oil level and filled approx 200ml, however the engine was not warm.
When I did the checks during the trip I did it 5-10-30 mins and 3 hours after I stopped the engine. After the 4th check (3 hours) the level was on the maximum level. Can this be considered as OK?

Would it make sense to purchase an "upgraded" dipstick to make the reading more straightforward?