Ok, so I know this has probably been beat into the ground, but I looked and looked and I couldn't find anything specific to the problem that my MINI is having when I try to start it. So forgive me if this has already been answered, but I haven't found anything yet, and I've been looking for a year (on and off)!

I have a 2005 MINI JCW with just over 49k miles that for the last YEAR has had a random intermittent issue when starting. It always cranks, but about 40-50% of the time it cranks for a lot longer than a fuel injected car should to turn over . I'm thinking the long cranks probably around 5-10 seconds, which doesn't sound long, but this is the amount of time I'm holding the key to wait for the car to turn over! However, when it does turn over it never stumbles, it runs like a champ (and will run great the whole time it's running). And if I let it run for a little and turn it off it almost always starts right away. However if I let it set for 30 minutes and try to start it, it goes back to the 40-50% of the time not starting like it should. I have noticed though that it does start a little easier in the morning when it's been in the garage versus outside.

I've taken it to MINI twice and they don't know what's wrong either...They've tested the battery and it was good (I can see volts too when it's running and it's always at around 13). I've put in new spark plugs thinking they were fouled, no fix. I paid over $200 for MINI to do their magic injection flush which they said would solve it .... it didn't. I even followed it up with seafoam (It is squeaky clean now!) as well as some octane booster. Nothing, still have the problem. They checked the fuel pump and said it's priming fine. I even let the fuel pump prime before cranking the car and that doesn't hardly ever work. What's left?? I really can't figure this out.

I have been WAY around the block with this and I still have not sorted it all out. And I've probably spent more money than is needed to fix this. Please help!

 

Does anybody know? Can anyone help me out?

 

you solved the problem yet? mine does the same!

 

No I sure haven't. Hopefully someone will have some ideas as I have tried a lot without success.

 

I had the problem, changed my spark plugs and fuel filter the same day, and it went away. So don't know which one was the culprite.

 

1st i changed my spark plugs (aftermark but not sure about the brand) when i 1st got the car.....which didnt help.

a few months later after i read from a few threads i also changed the fuel filter (original BMW) but no luck!

i have also heard that original plugs many help.....and that is what i am going to do next.....so Brother did you had the original plugs on??? if not what makes? i really wanted to solve the problem soon as no matter how sexy my cooper looks but everytime where i tried to start the engine it just sounds very sad! thanks

 

You say you are holding the key in the start position for 5-10 sec waiting for the car to turn over.....are you saying the engine doesn't start up or that the engine is not moving at all?

Sounds like a fuel pressure problem. Have you had the fuel pump checked out? What gas are you using?

 

you may have an intermittently bad coil, has that been checked? also, loose terminals or faulty wires on the coil could possibly cause that as well.

 

Stock plugs replaced but had no luck......

dont know what to try next???

 

MINI's are very tempermental when it comes to voltage and amperage.
Your battery may check out fine but if it is over 5 years old and an OEM then it is probally ready to be replaced.
The back 2 pins of the coil are very prone to corrusion.
Remove plug wires, clean the terminals, spray some CRC Contact Cleaner on terminals.

 

Same issue with my 05 R53. New plugs, coil, wires and no codes present. 6 seconds of cranking to start. Sounds like air in fuel rail waiting to purge out when starting? I've let it sit with the fuel pump running before cranking to no avail, same issue. Spark is there! It has to be fuel. Is there a way to check fuel rail pressure or for air in fuel rail? Fuel, air, spark = go. Old School.

 

Just been told by the mechanic the cause could be by a bad "fuel pressure regulator" ....that leads to a drop to a instant drop of fuel pressure once the engines is turned off! that is why it is why it is hard to restart again.

also i have found this on the net http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/...regulator.html
which said: - "What are the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator?
The symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator include:
Lack of fuel pressure, excessive fuel pressure, black smoke and rich engine running condition, instant drop of fuel pressure once the vehicle has been turned off, delay building sufficient fuel pressure."

it also said symptoms may include "O2 sensor indicates rich exhaust", this is what i am having as well ( i never mentioned this because i through the O2 sensor error code is a separate issuse, but now to me it seems like the error is just a sympton of a bad "fuel pressure regulator".

may be this what i need to do next? anyone can comment on this?

thanks

kk



To the Moderators - not sure if i can post a link for another web, of not pls delete!

 

I have been having a similar issue. The regulator/damper was clogged after a bad tank of gas from a small way out in the sticks gas station. The regulator wasn't providing enough fuel to run the engine at full throttle under load. Felt like a lack of boost.

The the damper part keeps pressure to the injectors after the engine shuts down so the pump doesn't have to rebuild the pressure every time the engine is cranked. There is a schrader valve at the end of the injector bar you can connect a pressure gauge to test.

 

FANILLY...... it is all done!
as mentioned above got the "fuel pressure regulator" changed, reason being it didnt manage to hold the pressure! tested it for a few days......
and my baby now start with ONE click!

 

Whoa! Good huntin'. This all makes sense, I wonder if that is what I should try as well since I haven't had any luck anywhere else. It behooves me why the dealer wouldn't have looked at this... Anyway, how much does it cost? Is it in the bentley manual? I looked right before work but didn't have time to find it.

 

Does anyone have a part number for that 'fuel pressure regulator'? How difficult is it to test and replace my current one?

Any ideas as to what can make this item go bad? I've been having the same issue with starting and my MINI only has 8K miles on it.

 

Mine is an 02 R53 right hand drive, coz i am in Hong Kong, so you may have a differ part number, check out this link:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...&fg=15&lang=en

it is part no. 7 on the diagram

you can modifly the seacrh (with your car's VIN number)! and i am not sure the price for the parts in the table are in what currency, it costed me $1200 Hong Kong Dollars (include parts and labour), so roughly USD 150.

 

Table prices appear to be USD.
for is about an $80 part....simple for anybody to do if you have done injectors.

 

I don't know how anyone else feels about RockAuto.com, but I found them there for cheaper. I used to use them but haven't in a long time. Here's the link, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php, I may use them when I round up enough cash to do this unless they have gone south since I used them a couple of years ago.

I guess OEM is the safest way to go with clearance and everything? Had found some aftermarket adjustable ones for not a whole lot more, but wasn't sure about fit/form/function...

Also I have a '05 JCW that is basically a stock top-end JCW (stock pulley, stock JCW intake, etc.) as of right now. Are there any recommendations on anything else to upgrade while I have it pulled apart? Such as injectors or something else? I know some people get bigger injectors, but with stock I'm thinking it might be overkill?

Sorry for the questions, just making sure I have a plan before I tackle this. And maybe kill two birds with one stone. Thanks in advance

 

I'm also having this exact problem on an '03 R50 - the longer the car sits, the longer it has to crank to start. Battery and starter test as fine.

Wondering, will a fuel pressure test show that the fuel pressure regulator is bad, or would it only be able to pinpoint the fuel pump as the culprit?

I want to try to nail down the cause before throwing money at parts that don't need to be replaced...

 

Just found the answer to my own question. Got this from an online BMW TIS service manual:


Of course, if the dealer or a shop is going to charge $100+ to test this, I might as well try replacing the regulator first (about $100), and if that doesn't solve it, move to the fuel pump and/or delivery lines.

 

For those looking to replace the fuel pressure regulator, check out this thread - includes a good how-to:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...regulator.html

 

Just replaced the FPR. Haven't yet tested whether it fixed my start issue (car hasn't sat unused for a few days yet), but it definitely improved my throttle response - so much more responsive now. Also, my RPMs were dipping after starting up with the engine already warm, and that has also been minimized.

Even if my "longer start time after sitting a while" isn't fully resolved, I'm happy I replaced the FPR. MINI just feels younger.

I also plan on using a fuel injection cleaner before my next oil change as that has seemed to help others here on NAM with similar issues.

 

Great to hear that, best of luck! and keep us updated.

i had mine replaced for almost 2 months, and no problem since...

 

I have yet to track it down, but I've read that there is a valve that holds fuel pressure in the fuel rail when you shut down. It is known to fail or be held open which empties the fuel rail. The fuel pump initial prime is not enough fuel to fill the lines from the tank, all the way to the rail, thus, 10 seconds of cranking while the entire fuel line and rail fill up. Mine too will re-start after a short stop, intimating that the valve is leaking down slowly, holding pressure for 30 minutes or so. I've tried turning the key on for the prime cycle 5 or 6 times and the car will start right up. However, without the injectors firing, the air in the system has to go somewhere, so it's not a guaranteed remedy if you're trying to save the embarrassment of a non-start in a parking lot full of enthusiasts.