Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Dead battery = failed emissions test?

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  #1  
Old 01-30-2004, 03:46 PM
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The battery was dead (I may have left the radio on) when we went to take Winnie in for the new emissions inspection here in Pennsylvania.
Apparently it lost its memory and we have to drive it around some and take it back.
Does anyone know how long this will take?
Is it X number of miles or hours or cold starts?
 
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Old 01-30-2004, 03:56 PM
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>>The battery was dead (I may have left the radio on) when we went to take Winnie in for the new emissions inspection here in Pennsylvania.
>>Apparently it lost its memory and we have to drive it around some and take it back.
>>Does anyone know how long this will take?
>>Is it X number of miles or hours or cold starts?

Take it to the dealer and explode like a whale on a Taiwanese street.
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 09:21 PM
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When listening to the standard CD/FM radio unit with the ignition turned off the unit automatically turns off after 20 minutes (at least in my car). I don't know if the HK system has the same feature though.


retroom
 
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:46 AM
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I’m with MINI USA. I’m sorry to read about your problem with your battery. If you want our assistance, please phone us at (866) ASK MINI and mention Reference # 200403402074 so that we can help you more efficiently.
 
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Old 02-05-2004, 11:47 AM
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Update:
Winnie passed the emissions test today.
We've been frustrated with our MINI dealer, so we took him to the local BMW dealer.
They cleared everything out and then drove it to re-calibrate the computer.
Apparently the test drive must be done in a particular and peculiar way or it doesn't reset the 'Not Ready' code.
The independent shop that did the emissions test was told by MINI that we should just 'drive it around some'.
He didn't think that they were very helpful.
MINI is an hour away and they can't seem to get anything right the first time, so we're not going back.

I'm still not sure why the battery went dead.
I drove it across the street and back on Tuesday and it just went 'click click' when I tried to start it on Thursday.
Either the door was open, or the key was on, or the radio was on - something drained the battery down.
I hooked up the charger for 15 min and it started right up and has been fine since.
 
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:15 PM
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Not much help...

Originally Posted by MINIDivision
I’m with MINI USA. I’m sorry to read about your problem with your battery. If you want our assistance, please phone us at (866) ASK MINI and mention Reference # 200403402074 so that we can help you more efficiently.
I had the same problem as the poster you replied to, called the number and they wouldn't even begin to address the issue unless I gave them the VIN...given the nature of the problem, quite obviously it would not be associated with my vehicle alone....SO, I obtained the VIN, called back and they STILL refused to even attempt to look up the quoted reference number...They ended up calling the dealer who had just serviced the car and relating to me that the codes would take about a week/150 miles of driving to reset, even though when they serviced the car, my wife informed them that she was heading from their location to an inspection location, yet no word of warning that she wouldn't pass - something that a Mini tech should know...and what kind of vehicle design is that???? Make it so that if you're having some work done so that you'll pass inspection, you have to then wait a week/drive 150 miles before the car can be inspected???? Minis are cute, yes, Minis are fun to drive, yes, but I'm getting the sense from reading these posts and having dealt a bit with Mini USA that they are one of the least cooperative auto companies out there - frankly glad that it's the wife's car and not mine.
 
  #7  
Old 06-30-2010, 12:44 PM
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Here's the suggested protocol for a drive cycle for current VW's (is this ****-compulsive or what?)
I couldn't find a MINI drive cycle definition for ensuring readiness of the OBD system sensors.

Begin Drive Cycle:
The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not shut the engine off during the drive cycle.
CAUTION: Obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner!
NOTE: Extreme driving conditioning such as very high/low temperatures, rough roads and high altitudes may prevent some monitors from attaining a "Ready" status.

Step 1 (Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.
Step 2 Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.
Step 3 Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 4 Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 5 Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.
Step 6 Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds. Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.
Step 7 Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 8 Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.
Step 9 Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 10 Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.
Step 11 Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 12 Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.
Step 13 Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 14 Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds. Step 15 Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.
Step 16 Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.
Step 17 Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors".
 

Last edited by cristo; 06-30-2010 at 12:50 PM.
  #8  
Old 06-30-2010, 12:48 PM
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Actually, found a post from Grassroots Garage on this forum:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...arameters.html


Paul,

-start engine, idle cold~2 min. 10 sec. -Evap leak detection is evaluated
-accelerate to 20-30 MPH. Maintain steady speed for 3 min.15 sec. - Establish closed loop operation- o2 sensor responce timeand switching time is monitored
-accelerate to 40-60 MPH, maintain steady speed for 15 min. - catalytic converter efficiency is evaluated.
-come to stop, idle for 5 min. - tank leakage is evaluated.

Don't expect to be able to accomplish all of this in 1 trip. I hope this helps
--Dan
 
  #9  
Old 06-30-2010, 12:49 PM
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Simple...

Only 32 steps (some of which are to be performed at 28mph ??!!??...my speedo doesn't show 28mph...)...you gotta be effin' kidding...
 
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