Powerflex Front Control Arm Bushings: New Design or Defective?
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Powerflex Front Control Arm Bushings: New Design or Defective?
Hey Guys,
I've been working all day trying to get my front control arm bushing in my Mini without dropping the subframe. I've tried to press it in but with no luck. The bushings I received only have one side that is beveled which is not what is pictured in the instructions nor in any other pictures of these bushings I've seen on the web (pf5-101). Unfortunately the bushings only go in one way and because only one side is beveled it's forcing me to press the bushing from the back of the car to the front (of course this is not possible with the subframe still in the car).
Can someone tell me if this is a new design or I just have great luck and recieved defective bushings?
Thanks!,
Mike
I've been working all day trying to get my front control arm bushing in my Mini without dropping the subframe. I've tried to press it in but with no luck. The bushings I received only have one side that is beveled which is not what is pictured in the instructions nor in any other pictures of these bushings I've seen on the web (pf5-101). Unfortunately the bushings only go in one way and because only one side is beveled it's forcing me to press the bushing from the back of the car to the front (of course this is not possible with the subframe still in the car).
Can someone tell me if this is a new design or I just have great luck and recieved defective bushings?
Thanks!,
Mike
#2
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Here's a link to the bushing I bought vs. the bushings I've seen from everyone else:
Mine
http://www.flickr.com/photos/48807608@N02/6042635759/
Bill's
http://www.billswebspace.com/mini560.jpg
Mine
http://www.flickr.com/photos/48807608@N02/6042635759/
Bill's
http://www.billswebspace.com/mini560.jpg
Last edited by mchulse; 08-14-2011 at 01:42 PM. Reason: trying to add image
#4
#5
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Hey Guys,
I've been working all day trying to get my front control arm bushing in my Mini without dropping the subframe. I've tried to press it in but with no luck. The bushings I received only have one side that is beveled which is not what is pictured in the instructions nor in any other pictures of these bushings I've seen on the web (pf5-101). Unfortunately the bushings only go in one way and because only one side is beveled it's forcing me to press the bushing from the back of the car to the front (of course this is not possible with the subframe still in the car).
Can someone tell me if this is a new design or I just have great luck and recieved defective bushings?
Thanks!,
Mike
I've been working all day trying to get my front control arm bushing in my Mini without dropping the subframe. I've tried to press it in but with no luck. The bushings I received only have one side that is beveled which is not what is pictured in the instructions nor in any other pictures of these bushings I've seen on the web (pf5-101). Unfortunately the bushings only go in one way and because only one side is beveled it's forcing me to press the bushing from the back of the car to the front (of course this is not possible with the subframe still in the car).
Can someone tell me if this is a new design or I just have great luck and recieved defective bushings?
Thanks!,
Mike
Hmm, those do look different. I bought my powerflex bushings from way in june and they were beveled on both ends. I ended up using a piece of 1/2" all-thread to press them in. I had already removed the subframe to install swaybar bushings, but believe the all-thread could be used to install them in the car.
Marcus
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Thanks for the replies.
I bought them from Moss a couple weeks ago. I just emailed them and Powerflex to see what the deal is. I'll update when I get replies.
I did try to install them with a 12" x 1/2" all thread and ball bearing presses as-per The Rover Shop instructions on youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4) but the shoulder was too big and just wouldn't go in. Looks like my only options are:
1. Pray these are not right and have the bushings with both sides beveled sent to me
2. Modify the bushings so they will go in
3. Drop the subframe and do it the right way, though I'm a little freaked out about messing things up as I've never take a car THAT far apart before. :(
I bought them from Moss a couple weeks ago. I just emailed them and Powerflex to see what the deal is. I'll update when I get replies.
I did try to install them with a 12" x 1/2" all thread and ball bearing presses as-per The Rover Shop instructions on youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4) but the shoulder was too big and just wouldn't go in. Looks like my only options are:
1. Pray these are not right and have the bushings with both sides beveled sent to me
2. Modify the bushings so they will go in
3. Drop the subframe and do it the right way, though I'm a little freaked out about messing things up as I've never take a car THAT far apart before. :(
#7
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Yes the newer Powerflex bushings are only tapered on one side. There is nothing wrong with the bushings just something PF did.
I don't recommend doing the bushings like that youtube video, most of the time you will damage the ball joints removing the control arms like that. And most people don't have a torch, let alone the fuel lines run next the to bracket on the passenger side. Unbolt the subframe, pull it down in the back and it will work even easier.
I don't recommend doing the bushings like that youtube video, most of the time you will damage the ball joints removing the control arms like that. And most people don't have a torch, let alone the fuel lines run next the to bracket on the passenger side. Unbolt the subframe, pull it down in the back and it will work even easier.
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#8
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Thanks for the reply Way! I was going to replace the ball joints anyways as the car has quite a few miles on it. I used a sawzall to get the old bushings out (which worked pretty well). So can you just partially unbolt the subframe to pull it down in the back or do you still need to pull the front bumper off, remove the outer ball joins... etc to do the job?
#9
Same Here
Thanks for the reply Way! I was going to replace the ball joints anyways as the car has quite a few miles on it. I used a sawzall to get the old bushings out (which worked pretty well). So can you just partially unbolt the subframe to pull it down in the back or do you still need to pull the front bumper off, remove the outer ball joins... etc to do the job?
#10
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Well I dropped the subframe, removed the old bushings, and now I tried to get the new bushings in. I was successful getting the outer bushings in the subframe but getting the control arm with inner bushing in the outer bushing is proving to be the real issue. It will go on partly but won't slip on for the last part. It's almost like the outer bushing is not fully seated but it's on as far as it will go! I'm just sick of having my MINI in pieces. Does anyone have any advice with this?
Way do you know anyone successful installing these newly designed bushings? It seems like the shoulder is too big to allow the beveled end to fully slip through the other end. :(
Way do you know anyone successful installing these newly designed bushings? It seems like the shoulder is too big to allow the beveled end to fully slip through the other end. :(
#11
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We've installed several sets of the new bushing here at the shop. The key to the install is to press the bushing into the bracket until the tapered side of the bushing pops ALL THE WAY THROUGH, and I mean you have to make sure the entire part of the taper comes through if the very edge of the taper isn't through it will put more pressure on the center part and usually it will fit fine, but this is what can cause a squeak. So it's kinda like you slightly over press the bushing into the bracket cause the square side will pop back.
Check that if that is ok, just tap the bushing onto the control arm the rest of the way with a hammer. Don't forget the Copper Grease, use it ALL on the bushings, NO EXTRA
When you buy parts from WMW fell free to call for help, that's the advantage of getting them from WMW we'll help you out whenever we can.
Yes you can pull the subframe down without taking off the bumper, but make sure you disconnect the steering column.
Check that if that is ok, just tap the bushing onto the control arm the rest of the way with a hammer. Don't forget the Copper Grease, use it ALL on the bushings, NO EXTRA
When you buy parts from WMW fell free to call for help, that's the advantage of getting them from WMW we'll help you out whenever we can.
Yes you can pull the subframe down without taking off the bumper, but make sure you disconnect the steering column.
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#13
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4
I found this video to be pretty helpful. I bought my bushings from Glenn at The Euro Shop (north of Chicago) and he recommended I watch this video first.
I probably couldn't have done this if I didn't have an air hammer with a cutting chisel and a 60+ gallon compressor that runs at LEAST 11.4 CFM (my air hammer uses alot of air). I didn't need to use the torch.
I found this video to be pretty helpful. I bought my bushings from Glenn at The Euro Shop (north of Chicago) and he recommended I watch this video first.
I probably couldn't have done this if I didn't have an air hammer with a cutting chisel and a 60+ gallon compressor that runs at LEAST 11.4 CFM (my air hammer uses alot of air). I didn't need to use the torch.
#14
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Hi Mchulse. Sorry Moss never mailed you back. I work there and I cant imagine what would have happened, we always do our best to respond to a customer in need, I am the sales manager and responding to a customer is a super high priority to me.
If you ever need to talk yuo can call we always have people available on the phones.
Way is a great place and person, I cant say a bad word about them or him nor do I want to.
But we are good people here at Moss also. We are all car people and try to help as much as we can.
I have to do my bushings on my 2008 MCS, but it looks like a hard job. I may get way's pre pressed bushings to make it easier.....Funny huh
If you ever need to talk yuo can call we always have people available on the phones.
Way is a great place and person, I cant say a bad word about them or him nor do I want to.
But we are good people here at Moss also. We are all car people and try to help as much as we can.
I have to do my bushings on my 2008 MCS, but it looks like a hard job. I may get way's pre pressed bushings to make it easier.....Funny huh
#15
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UPDATE ON THE BUSHINGS
I did get the bushings in after dropping the subframe but I recieved an email from PowerFlex today explaining the situation. (the Development Manager was away last week so it took them a while to get back to me)
Aparentely these newly designed bushings do have a shoulder but they are supposed to have the shoulder on the larger diameter portion of the bushing as to allow only installation from the front to the back.
The bushing I recieved was reverse of this (only allowing installation from the back of the car to the front) and it was a inital "tooling error" but it is not supposed to affect the way the bushing performs. It just makes it a complete PITA to install as you HAVE to drop the subframe in order to install these.
Well my car luck is apparently pretty awesome lately. I think I'll take a hiatus from the wrench for now.
chakraj, thanks for getting back to me. I was a little supprised to never hear anything back from you guys. Good to see you checking the forums and I won't completely dismiss you guys from any future purchases.
I did get the bushings in after dropping the subframe but I recieved an email from PowerFlex today explaining the situation. (the Development Manager was away last week so it took them a while to get back to me)
Aparentely these newly designed bushings do have a shoulder but they are supposed to have the shoulder on the larger diameter portion of the bushing as to allow only installation from the front to the back.
The bushing I recieved was reverse of this (only allowing installation from the back of the car to the front) and it was a inital "tooling error" but it is not supposed to affect the way the bushing performs. It just makes it a complete PITA to install as you HAVE to drop the subframe in order to install these.
Well my car luck is apparently pretty awesome lately. I think I'll take a hiatus from the wrench for now.
chakraj, thanks for getting back to me. I was a little supprised to never hear anything back from you guys. Good to see you checking the forums and I won't completely dismiss you guys from any future purchases.
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