Engine rattle
#1
Engine rattle
R53, engine irattles at a stand still, but when i step on the clinch it goes away, anyone have any idea what the problem "might" be?
also, is it me or is the oil burning quickly on these things? my prevoius engine was burning oil and i since had an engine swap and the new engine is doing the same....when i say burning, i mean extreme...i don't get get to 3000 miles and i notice there's a significant drop in oil, no leaks what so ever (i'm assuming the supercharge is guzzling it?)
also, is it me or is the oil burning quickly on these things? my prevoius engine was burning oil and i since had an engine swap and the new engine is doing the same....when i say burning, i mean extreme...i don't get get to 3000 miles and i notice there's a significant drop in oil, no leaks what so ever (i'm assuming the supercharge is guzzling it?)
#3
Oil burning is usually the result of wear in the pistons...usually the oil control rings, yhat let the oil seap by, into the combustion chamber, and it burns....other spots that get hot may burn oil ..hotspots..
the SC does not use oil...(it is lubed internally), and to a certain extent, it is lubed by the pcv vapor when it condenses....remember the sc is just a pair of spinning rotors (an engine poowered air compressor) that compresses the air before it is fed to the motor.
Motors with turbo's or superchargers tend (in most cases) to consume a bit of oil....the piston rings are heaver than a natrually asperated car, but the extra compression tends to reduce oil control, resulting in oil use. That is why they say to check your oil frequently, and one reason syenthic oil is mandatory (in addition to offering better protection and longer life, it withstands higher temps better, resulting in less oil consumption).
You may want to switch oils ...some burn off more than others...
the SC does not use oil...(it is lubed internally), and to a certain extent, it is lubed by the pcv vapor when it condenses....remember the sc is just a pair of spinning rotors (an engine poowered air compressor) that compresses the air before it is fed to the motor.
Motors with turbo's or superchargers tend (in most cases) to consume a bit of oil....the piston rings are heaver than a natrually asperated car, but the extra compression tends to reduce oil control, resulting in oil use. That is why they say to check your oil frequently, and one reason syenthic oil is mandatory (in addition to offering better protection and longer life, it withstands higher temps better, resulting in less oil consumption).
You may want to switch oils ...some burn off more than others...
#4
Rattle is likely the throwout bearing...usually best to live with it till it fails (if ever)and you will get a new one when the clutch is replaced due to wear.
The oem clutch is usually pretty quiet at idle, but many aftermarket clutches/flywheel combo's result in a bit of a raddle...vibration too sometimes...that is why the car has a $$ dual mass flywheel...
The oem clutch is usually pretty quiet at idle, but many aftermarket clutches/flywheel combo's result in a bit of a raddle...vibration too sometimes...that is why the car has a $$ dual mass flywheel...
#6
Going to a cheaper single mass flywheel can save $$, but there is a cost...
Noise, vibration,and harshness. Folks looking for a faster reving motor (harder hill starts, etc) do switch to a lightweight one, but know what you will be getting....folks race with the oem clutch...it is pretty strong....so if you get a 3rd party clutch kit, know why you are doing it....performance, $ saving, etc.
Remember, claimed higher tourque holding with a clutch almost always means shorter life(more agressive clutch materal).
#7
Another vote for OEM unless you have a compelling reason not to (too much power for the stock clutch, price, etc.)
This is only my fourth day owning a Mini, so I'm not sure what the cost savings would be between true OEM and aftermarket OEM types (race parts not considered in this case). My understanding is that the flywheel cannot or should not be resurfaced so that might also be a factor.
This is only my fourth day owning a Mini, so I'm not sure what the cost savings would be between true OEM and aftermarket OEM types (race parts not considered in this case). My understanding is that the flywheel cannot or should not be resurfaced so that might also be a factor.
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#8
Mine makes something of a rattle noise when idling out of gear with the clutch let out. We just assumed it was the sound of some of the gears in the transmission turning. Assuming it's the throwout bearing having issues, how do I know when it's bad? Are there any other indicators that it's having trouble?
#9
I think just the sound is an indicator of it going bad. Mine makes all the noises associated with a failing TOB, but I'm just going to drive it until it fails or I need a clutch replacement. I really don't have the time or money to pull the motor and transmission right now. I've heard of a lot of people who just drive it as is, and have gotten thousands of miles without issue.
#11
I think just the sound is an indicator of it going bad. Mine makes all the noises associated with a failing TOB, but I'm just going to drive it until it fails or I need a clutch replacement. I really don't have the time or money to pull the motor and transmission right now. I've heard of a lot of people who just drive it as is, and have gotten thousands of miles without issue.
#12
#13
#14
Yeah that's the feeling. It just feels like the clutch arm needs to be lubed but it is in fact the TOB.
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