Alrighty, so I've posted on here multiple times trying to figure out what's going on with my mysterious Mini Cooper S, over the time I have been fixing and replacing all kinds of stuff to get rid of the problems and now I'm down to a few codes left. Money pit. But anyway, had a misfire in cylinder 3, replaced the coil pack, good to go! Already replaced my harmonic balancer with an ATI 2% drive and the proper fitting belt to go along with my 15% pulley. I have a CAI, oil catch can, and a Supersprint Exhaust. I know technically I'm running a little much on stock injectors and no tune but should't be enough to effect the car this much. Here's the problem and here's the codes!

Anytime I speed up too fast, (I mean like pushing the pedal to the floor) it sputters and usually goes into limp mode with the DSC, engine light, and the EML light coming on. Sometimes this happens randomly from take off or cruising at an average speed. The way I usually fix it is by unplugging and replugging the sensor in front of the intercooler. Then, most of the time, it starts back up and continues on it's way. Sometimes it happens consistently and I have to reset it multiple times. Sometimes it fires up and just dies instantly over and over until I reset the sensor. I've taken it to Mini and here's the codes I get-

P1688: Manufacturer Contrl - Auxiliary Inputs/Auxiliary Outputs
P0107: System too lean (bank 1)
P0171:MAP/BARO circuit low input

Same codes as usually but I've almost replaced everything everyone has mentioned excluding the BPV which I may do next with the DTBPV and the sensors themselves. But wouldn't Mini be able to tell if it were the sensors? Only other thing I noticed today is my boost gauge says it's only reading 10in hg on idle or even while driving, that's as far as it goes down. Boost is fine, in the 15-18 area. But I was looking at my FuzzyCar iPhone app connected through the Kiwi wifi through the OBD and it says my vacuum is like 16-18in hg. Kinda weird! Anyway, any advice would be great! She is going back to Mini tomorrow but I just thought I'd ask again!

 

Bad MAP sensor? There are 2, with different part #s, but look identical. The one on the intake manifold (POST S/C) has a temp sensor built in.

 

Yeah, I know where both are located. But wouldn't they come up at the Mini dealer? I'm sure they'd notice the sensors and or have a way to test them

 

The dealer shuld be able to test them, I dont know why they wouldn't do that with theese codes you are throwing. The only other thing that I know of that could cause this is a bad VAC leak, but there arent verry many lines to choose from, and even less that are VAC only. (No boost)

P1688 Not exactly sure what causes this one, other than an electrical malfunction.

P0107 Pre CAT O2 sensor sees a lean burn condition, Could be a malfunctioning sensor, or it is likely not getting enough fuel for atmospheric conditions picked up from the MAP sensors.

P0171 MAP sensor is giving a weak signal to the ECU, only question is What one of them.

(This is another reason I like ByteTroniK, it narrows the codes down to individual sensors and gives short descriptions rather than numbers. If I have any codes I dont understand, someone who knows is an email or phone call away.)

 

Whoa! Thanks a ton! I'm going to bring this info to the dealer tomorrow to see if maybe it gives them any hints. He said he wants to do an update on my ECU as well. What is the BtyeTroniK? I've never heard of it.Could my Supersprint exhaust have anything to do with it? Thanks again for the help! I'm dying to get this fixed so I can get a tuneeee

 

Since the car has never been tuned, go for the ECU update if its free. Your exhaust system could play a verry small part in the O2 sensors Lean code but not much, if you had a header with the exhaust, that will cause a code more frequently.

ByteTroniK is an end user (SELF) tuning program developed last year by MYNES. It can let you tune your car yourself, or let you blow it up if you dont know what youre doing. It also lets you read all the fault codes, even the ones that are pending and havent triggered a CEL, and clear them. It will also let you reset all of the adaptations the ECU sets up. The tuning kit also comes with a pretty kick *** data loger that lets you see everything the engine and ECU does. BUT if you are not comortable learning to tune your car (It takes a lot to learn to do it right. And dosent take much to go wrong and go BOOM ) I recomend spending the $$$ it would cost you on a code reader, and a custom dyno tune from the tuner of your choice.

 

Okay, so after a ton of research and replacement, the problem still persist. The mini tech has been working on my car like crazy and has gone through almost everything! We recently just replaced the bypass valve, fuel injector seals, the turquoise gasket for the supercharger, coil pack, a software upgrade, and multiple vacuum lines. Smoked the car multiple times and there isn't one leak. It's air tight! My idle vacuum is now sitting at 18-20 in Hg where it should be at idle and the stutter is officially gone if you floor it! Sometime it drives great! But other times I'm still getting stuck for 30+ minutes trying to go 2 miles with the car stalling and going into limp mode.

Same codes as above, it just happens so randomly! What normally happens is it starts with a few sudden power losses and then the DSC light comes in, more misses and power loss, the check engine light. By now it just drops power every few seconds while letting out of the clutch. If I let it go to an idle, it dies and then doesn't do anything. If I try to start it it'll turn over and then instantly die. Next step is to reset the engine codes, reset the front map sensor in front of the IC, then go for it and sometimes it starts and drives fine, sometimes it doesn't drive at all for another 30 minutes or more, who knows! I don't know what to do next, any advice would be terrific! I gotta get my Mini fixed for good!

 

Before you spend more $$$, i suggest you find a shop with a obd2 that does data logging...they plug it in...and you drive off...even if it takes a few days for the event to happen again, , the reader will record it....so it will be simpler to track down.
i might be a sensor, it might be a wire or a bad vac leak that only happens when the motor is rocked or somering...has been smoked, so not likely...but all possible.
It sounds like the motor stops running cause you just keep it spinning with it in gear...so no lites...
Ever look at the wiring? Loose plug to the ecu....

 

I had a problem similar to this, check this thread out

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...stumbling.html