i'm thinking of pulling valve cover and tranny oil pan to do a quick visual check and oil change.

I'm wondering if these are reusable gaskets (usually rubber ones) or not.
cost wise i'll probably buy replacements but if i can check everything then buy a gasket later that would be better

 

ohh.. this is an easy one gaskets fail over time due to age and heat cycles.. they are low cost as well, so change them while you are in there! They will start to leak (or are leaking right now)

phil

 

alright, but off the top of your head, do you know what kind of gasket they use from the factory (I've seen many different types available)

 

check realoem.com for the part numbers.. then your fav online dealer

 

You can't change your CVT tranny fluid yourself unless you plan on flatbedding your MINI to the dealer immediately afterwards......it's more electronic than mechanical and would have to be recalibrated for proper shifting to "adapt" to the new fluid viscosity.

Gaskets would also have to be changed..

 

i'm starting to hate MINI
what happened to working on your own ****

 

You can do it yourself if you want to. I changed my CVT fluid and filter a week and a half ago. Much smoother "shifting" at slow speeds now. The only reset I did was a general one I found described at minimania (see below). Resetting the adaption values for the transmission probably involves more than that, but I'm not worrying about it.

While what greyraven said is technically part of the last step of the process (http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/40/64), I have not had any sign of even the slightest problem. The car just drives better. Logic would also tell me the transmission will gradually "re-adapt" to the new fluid as well.

To do just a fluid change, you don't need to remove the pan.

If you still want to pull the pan, you might as well replace the filter in there. I got a CVT filter kit from pelican parts, which includes a new pan gasket, filter, magnet, and o-ring for the fill plug. I also got a new o-ring for the drain plug (strangely not included in the kit). I used some permatex trans pan gasket sealer as well on the new gasket. Using gasket sealer is unnecessary, but I view it as extra insurance against leaks.

The trans pan is a pain to get off - part of the subframe will need to be lowered to make enough room to get at some of the bolts. I had bunch of other things I was doing that required the subframe to be lowered, so it was the perfect time to pull the pan and do the filter replacement.

The pan gasket material is some kind of composite material and you will most likely completely destroy the old gasket to get it off, so having a new gasket is an absolute must.

My used fluid didn't have any unhealthy signs, and the magnet on the old filter also had very few, if any really, fine metal shavings on it - both good signs as I see it.


How to Reset the ECU (from minimania):
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand.
2. While holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again.
5. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
6. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
7. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.

 

Another thought related to the fluid viscosity issue - the fluid will have a different viscosity at different temperatures anyway, and I don't think the CVT has a temperature sensor that would allow the transmission to account for that, so maybe resetting the adaptation values doesn't really have to do with the change in viscosity.

Just a guess, but maybe it's more like restarting a computer that's running fine - it might not really be necessary to do, but if anything strange was starting to develop with the shift adaptation calculations, it's stopped before getting noticeable. I occasionally drive around in sport drive mode, which also apparently helps to reset the adaption values. Occasionally using standard mode probably wouldn't hurt either, so you're keeping all the ratios "fresh" in the transmission's brain.

 

Finally found how to do this. You'll need the BMW diagnostic software to get the transmission into "XP" mode. There are some cables on eBay for about $50 that come with the software and should be able to do it.


For adaptation of the CVT transmission, the following steps must be carried out as instructed; if necessary step I can also be carried out individually.

I. Clutch adaptation
Press the brake pedal in the following steps.

1. Start the cold engine. At increased idle speed, shift to N for 10 s, then shift to D for 10 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

2. Repeat the following ten times: Shift to N for 3 s, then shift to D for 3 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

3. Repeat the following ten times: Shift to N for 3 s, then shift to R for 3 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

II. Step-up ratio adaptation
1. Accelerate the vehicle to a speed > 80 km/h. Release the accelerator pedal and allow the vehicle to coast. The transmission adapts itself for 4500, 4000, ..., 1500 and 1400 rpm. P is indicated in the P position in the display.

2. The engine has now reached operating temperature. The idle speed is 800 rpm. Repeat steps 2 and 3 of clutch adaptation.

3. Turn ignition lock to position 0.

Important:

Wait for at least 10 mins. before possible disconnection from the battery and/or DME engine control module.