Glove box pops open
#1
#2
Usually, you can take out the glove box and adjust the bolts that align the striker.
Here's a cut and past of an old post by Walt:
Walt
3rd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 270
I just got an '03 about 2 months ago. Yea, the glove box doesn't key lock.
As to it popping open, I was able to greatly improve mine (has only popped open once since I did this).
Remove the glove box and door assembly from the dash. It comes out with just 5 screws. Once out, notice that the latching mechanism is basically a hook on the door and a bar on the top of the box. The bar's exact position is adjustable by loosing its two mounting screws.
At first, I thought the problem was that the hook wasn't wrapping around the bar all the way. So, I figured I could solve this by adjusting the bar all the way forward. Bad idea. It would then pop open if a mouse sneezed within 2 miles.
The correct adjustment is to have just a little friction between the hook and the bar when closed. It seems that the reason it pops open is that the hook bounces and when it bounces, it releases. With just a little friction, that friction keeps the hook from bouncing whenever you hit a bump.
BTW, you can play with adjusting the bar with the entire assembly removed form the car.
Here's a cut and past of an old post by Walt:
Walt
3rd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 270
I just got an '03 about 2 months ago. Yea, the glove box doesn't key lock.
As to it popping open, I was able to greatly improve mine (has only popped open once since I did this).
Remove the glove box and door assembly from the dash. It comes out with just 5 screws. Once out, notice that the latching mechanism is basically a hook on the door and a bar on the top of the box. The bar's exact position is adjustable by loosing its two mounting screws.
At first, I thought the problem was that the hook wasn't wrapping around the bar all the way. So, I figured I could solve this by adjusting the bar all the way forward. Bad idea. It would then pop open if a mouse sneezed within 2 miles.
The correct adjustment is to have just a little friction between the hook and the bar when closed. It seems that the reason it pops open is that the hook bounces and when it bounces, it releases. With just a little friction, that friction keeps the hook from bouncing whenever you hit a bump.
BTW, you can play with adjusting the bar with the entire assembly removed form the car.
#3
Mine does this too. The latch mechanism in the glove box door has self-destructed. I haven't taken the time to investigate the fix yet. In the mean time, I've stuffed the void around the inside of the latch (back of the door) with foam earplugs. They hold it in place but allow enough movement to be able to open it.
Oh, and BTW, i didn't have to remove my glove box to adjust the striker-plate; the bolt heads are exposed.
Oh, and BTW, i didn't have to remove my glove box to adjust the striker-plate; the bolt heads are exposed.
#4
It may be something more complicated. Try the easy plan first. In my case, I had to take the box off, split open the door, it can be done, it's not easy, use a VERY sharp kitchen knife and patience. My car is one of the first 2002, the latch design changed over the years; the early design wasn's sturdy and bent. While trying to repair it, I broke it, so I had to use epoxy and crazy glue, additionally, I drilled a hole and use a finish nail to keep it straight. I use crazy glue gel (like crazy glue), to put the the door together. 18 months later, still working. Here are some pictures, before and after, look at the nail going from side to side.
BEFORE I PUT THE NAIL
AFTER, WITH THE NAIL.
BEFORE I PUT THE NAIL
AFTER, WITH THE NAIL.
#6
#7
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#8
I did something similar and eventually it came off again. As it turns out, there are two bolts that hold it place and they backed out. (Before I realized what it was I had found one of the nuts on my floorboard a few weeks before) One just did it sooner than the other. I took the box out and replaced the nuts and bolts with ones with the plastic washer in the nut. I ended up not being able to find lock nuts for metric so I just got 8-32 3/4".
#9
#10
You don't just remove the lid; remove the entire glove box instead. Then as previously mentioned, the lid must be split open to access the latch. I tried it without real success as my latch had other problems. In the end I stuffed a small piece of carpet foam behind the latch as shown in post #5 above. It works well for most bumps. A new box is $147 from ECS Tuning, so for now I'll stick with the foam!
#11
We have it, another open to just get rid of the US glove box is to go to the Euro Passenger side shelf, then you don't have to have the latch system anymore. We are one if not the only people in the world that have these actually in stock right now. Driver side was on Backorder for a long time.
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_Gen_1_Euro_Parcel_Shelf_010716/
51161186416
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_Gen_1_Euro_Parcel_Shelf_010716/
51161186416
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#12
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#14
#17
Adjusting the latch strike bar worked for me
Thanks to this thread, I just fixed my popping open glove box on an '03 MINI. Removing the box was easy as was adjusting the latch strike bar on top of the box. There are two nuts to loosen to move the bar. Putting everything back together, though, was a bear. Screw clips moved preventing screw holes from aligning and two holes are hidden deep into the plastic trim where, if not inserted perfectly, screws would would fall into a void. After removing the box several times to reposition clips and retrieve fallen screws, the clips stayed in place but another screw fell into the void. Instead of undoing it all again, I got a strong kitchen magnet and walked the screw up to the opening. It seems to be staying closed now but driving with tell for sure.
While the box was out, I replaced the cabin air filter, too.
While the box was out, I replaced the cabin air filter, too.
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