wheel hop skip and jump in first, what's the problem?
#1
wheel hop skip and jump in first, what's the problem?
Title pretty much says it all.
More detail:
Skipping or shuttering when letting out the clutch while in 1st (more on the very end of letting the clutch out where it really begins to bite). Seems to come from the passenger front wheel. Had LCA and front strut bushings changed out (they old as there was a thunking noise), problem existed before and after change.
Did have my front struts replaced with new koni yellows. Also, IE fixed camber too. The skipping seemed to happen some time after that.
The problem appears to be worsening. At first, very intermittent. Today, maybe happens every time.
I suspect engine mounts, clutch and possibly top mount bearing even though it is supposed to be new. Learning more towards the clutch. It does fill spongy, but has good bite so far.
Any other ideas?
Thanks!
More detail:
Skipping or shuttering when letting out the clutch while in 1st (more on the very end of letting the clutch out where it really begins to bite). Seems to come from the passenger front wheel. Had LCA and front strut bushings changed out (they old as there was a thunking noise), problem existed before and after change.
Did have my front struts replaced with new koni yellows. Also, IE fixed camber too. The skipping seemed to happen some time after that.
The problem appears to be worsening. At first, very intermittent. Today, maybe happens every time.
I suspect engine mounts, clutch and possibly top mount bearing even though it is supposed to be new. Learning more towards the clutch. It does fill spongy, but has good bite so far.
Any other ideas?
Thanks!
#3
#4
That was my thought as well. I don't know about ASC, but the DSC in my R50 will allow some tire trip on initial takeoff.
While clutch seems logical, I'm thinking no on that.
Engine mounts will give one huge jolt, not skipping, in my experience. Nevertheless, make sure they are in good shape. They are relatively inexpensive, and you can change all three over a single beer.
What I would do next, is get under there, and check for any play in the tripod or CV joints. I know from experience, you may feel a worn tripod (sometimes referred to as inner CV) before you can hear it. There should be zero radial play.
Good luck, and let us know.
While clutch seems logical, I'm thinking no on that.
Engine mounts will give one huge jolt, not skipping, in my experience. Nevertheless, make sure they are in good shape. They are relatively inexpensive, and you can change all three over a single beer.
What I would do next, is get under there, and check for any play in the tripod or CV joints. I know from experience, you may feel a worn tripod (sometimes referred to as inner CV) before you can hear it. There should be zero radial play.
Good luck, and let us know.
Last edited by Blackbomber; 12-23-2011 at 08:28 AM. Reason: I wrote DSG instead of DSC, haha!
#6
Wheel hop is attributed to the bushings not properly keeping the appropriate suspension parts where they should be during high RPM launches (or spirited driving). Wheel hop is really bad in Challengers and simply replacing the bushings with a polyurethane version (such as provided by Whiteline or Pedders) is all that's needed to keep the wheels on the ground. FWD's also have engine mount jump that also affects it, but can also be eliminated with the same type of bushings.
Most likely you only need to replace your bushings if it's a recent thing. With replacement of suspension parts, you've stiffened one part, but left the other parts not able to cope with the change.
Most likely you only need to replace your bushings if it's a recent thing. With replacement of suspension parts, you've stiffened one part, but left the other parts not able to cope with the change.
#7
Sounds like you need better tires to put the hp down...
Then again, colder temps=less traction..and more hp
So the fact it is getting worse is expected...
how many folks spend $$ modding their cars, and then get $100 tires.....
Since it sounds like you have done a bunch os suspension work, i would check it out, and do an alighnment check too....
Then again, colder temps=less traction..and more hp
So the fact it is getting worse is expected...
how many folks spend $$ modding their cars, and then get $100 tires.....
Since it sounds like you have done a bunch os suspension work, i would check it out, and do an alighnment check too....
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#8
First off, thanks for all the replies. Here is more info based on the questions:
I don't think the tires are spinning, no DSC and not gunning it.
The phenomena occurs during normal take off.
The tires are about a year old; however, they appear to have plenty tread left.
A little more info, the problem occurs even if I baby the clutch. Again, it happens when it begins to really engage. Here, I can imagine stresses on the front end and clutch or the most.
I will double check the bushings, cv's and tripod.
I don't think the tires are spinning, no DSC and not gunning it.
The phenomena occurs during normal take off.
The tires are about a year old; however, they appear to have plenty tread left.
A little more info, the problem occurs even if I baby the clutch. Again, it happens when it begins to really engage. Here, I can imagine stresses on the front end and clutch or the most.
I will double check the bushings, cv's and tripod.
#10
Conti DWS. 205 17 45. Great tire btw. Excellent wear, great in the rain, feels as good as my old bridgestones.
I guess I should say it feels less like spinning. More like a shudder wheel/hop.
Just yesterday, I experienced while down shifting into first (don't do that often, was a strange circumstance).
I guess I should say it feels less like spinning. More like a shudder wheel/hop.
Just yesterday, I experienced while down shifting into first (don't do that often, was a strange circumstance).
#12
Check the passanger side motor mount as they are known to go out. this could make engine go back and forth or up and down as you let the clutch out. iIf clutch not sliping and with the work you have done on susp it might possibly be the motor mounts. This is where I would look and not expensive or hard to fix.
#13
I'll also check the clutch. Haven't notice any slipping. However, there was some hesitation when I 'got on it' one day at higher rpms. Guess that could be the clutch, pulley tensioner not great (new belt though), or tune (never did one, running 15% and JCW intake + injectors).
The passenger side motor mount was replaced about a year ago. It's the TSW one. I will double check it though. I think I noticed the bushing on the dog part looked a little worn. The other motor mounts have not been touched.
BTW, the car has a shade over 140k. The clutch is 'almost' original. Basically, had warrantied the clutch at around 20k due to chewbacca. The replacement was new/used according to the dealer.
The passenger side motor mount was replaced about a year ago. It's the TSW one. I will double check it though. I think I noticed the bushing on the dog part looked a little worn. The other motor mounts have not been touched.
BTW, the car has a shade over 140k. The clutch is 'almost' original. Basically, had warrantied the clutch at around 20k due to chewbacca. The replacement was new/used according to the dealer.
#15
Check the passanger side motor mount as they are known to go out. this could make engine go back and forth or up and down as you let the clutch out. iIf clutch not sliping and with the work you have done on susp it might possibly be the motor mounts. This is where I would look and not expensive or hard to fix.
So checked the motor mounts, passenger side and lower. Lower was chewed badly and the upper (TSW) had some looseness. Both were replaced with stock parts. Shudder seems to be gone along with a billion little NVHs
Will keep an eye on it but car seems solid now.
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