I just swapped out my thermostat and threw this code after everything was put back together. What does that mean? The car makes no boost now, and is in half power mode. I just had the water pump recall done also.
While looking for possible issues, I found this sensor just laying down by the engine block. What is it for?




Sensor:


Where it should connect:

 

That's your oil pressure sensor.
It attaches right next to the coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head.

* MINI DTC P2885 - Boost Pressure Control Deviation, plausibility
In a nutshell, the ECU is seeing a serious discrepancy between the spec versus actual boost.
Either there's a leak in the system OR the wastegate isn't releasing the unused pressure (after throttle lift) like it should.
You need to check your BOV vacuum line to make sure it's not cracked / frayed.
Also check the diaphragm if the vacuum line is good.

- Erik

 

I swapped to the WMW bov about 1 month ago, you think its that. Everything was fine until I changed the thermostat out. Damn. Can I drive to the mini dealer with the Oil pressure sensor like that? Its about 18 miles.

 

Sure, it's not like you're losing oil; verify the crankcase is full first and drive over.

- Erik

 

I kept getting a p2885 so I came on here and everything seemed to point to BOV or Diverter Valve, so I replaced it with an upgraded DV and light still coming on and reduced power, any other suggestions? Upgrades include, FMIC, DDM Race Intake, Boost Tube hot side and Alta Access port? I checked all lines doesnt seem to be leaking anywhere? HELP?

 

Have you pressure checked the intake system?
The ECU is still seeing a discrepancy between the spec versus actual boost levels.

Appearance and actual are two separate things; go back through and verify all connections and components.

- Erik

 

I've been battling with this code since January. It first came up when I got my tune from Jan at RMW. I thought maybe it was an issue with the tune, but realized it wasn't and have spent the months since disassembling checking and reassembling my intake system, boost/vacuum lines, exhaust, etc.

After numerous independent shops coming up empty handed, I gave in and took it to the dealership, telling them to try and find the cause. I know it's not going to be cheap, but I have not been able to find any boost leaks or faults with the Diverter Valve after my countless attempts, so it's time for last resorts.

They called me after looking at it all day and decided there was a clog in one of the vacuum lines or an issue with the vacuum box itself. The car should be ready tomorrow morning, so I'll let you know what I hear. The issue is definitely directly related to the Diverter Valve and either a lack of boost or an excess of it. Boost leak, vacuum clog, or something along those lines.

I'm crossing my fingers they can figure it all out. This will be the first time I'll actually have a working tune if so...Wish me luck.

--Caleb

 

Thanks Bluefox, you made me go back and check the lines again and I found that the vac line that attaches to the vac pump assembly was split. This is due to the DDM Race intake putting pressure on it when the hood is down. When I bought the intake it said to unscrew and turn it and screw back but there is no place to screw it back as this does not turn. I checked into replacing it and the want $4oo plus bucks for the vac pump assembly as this screw is not a replacement part and you have to buy the entire unit, so I went to Advance and bought an vac elbow and relocated and now it angles instead of sticking straight up and the intake isnt smashing it....THANKS!!!!! No more p2885, so far anyway....

 

Wicked, glad you found the solution!

- Erik

 

Any Updates on this issue Kalibdor? I am also having this issue and I want to see a little bit more about it. I will be checking my vacuum lines and some other stuff this week. I am have a lot of issues right now.

 

Hey Porthos: My issue is still unresolved. After having it at the dealership for 3 days they came up empty handed. The last theory the tech had was that the exhaust side of my turbo had gotten so hot it had warped the blades, leaving a gap between them and the housing, and that this was the cause of the issue. I'm still not sure about this, though; from what I've gathered the P2885 code is almost always a direct result of a boost leak or something like that, not an issue with the turbo itself.

I guess I'm going to get another pressure and or smoke test done to make sure once and for all there's no leaks, then go from there. This is so frustrating . I haven't had a working tune since, well, ever. I just wish I could find a MINI genius on here and fly them out and have them figure it out. It seems nobody around here even has a clue where to start with MINIs, much less how to really figure out what the issue is. Especially considering the dealership couldn't even figure it out.

I'll let you know as I figure out more. Still open and welcoming to any and all suggestions, thanks a ton everyone.

--Caleb

 

Yeah I have thrown this code 3 times now. Each time I have been in 5th or 6th gear trying to accelerate hard. I have checked all my hoses and now will be checking vacuum lines to see if that is it.

 

Well i guess i jumped the gun bluefox, code is still stalking me..I have noticed that when I uninstall the Alta Access Port the code doesnt seem to come on. Since our last post I replaced the turbo inlet pipe replacing it with the JCW inlet, and the DV with upgraded DV from WMW. haven't done anything else. You have anymore suggestions.
I am thinking that its the access port itself!

 

Still have the same issue myself. Any updates would be great.

 

Have you directly contacted Alta to see what their thoughts are?

Mechanically, you seem on the up-and-up. Would check with Alta to see what they can trace.

- Erik

 

Did anyone ever find out what was causing the 2885 code. I have this problem and no one can locate a problem.

 

Its a control deviation plausibility error. DME asks for X boost and get Y boost which is outside the deviation window programmed into the DME. So it triggers the plausibility error. Anyone try replacing the vacuum lines between the pressure controller and wastegate actuator, as well as the lines to the vacuum reservoir on the back side of the engine. I've seen older lines collapse under vacuum. Also becomes more apparent after a tune when requesting higher boost levels. Might not be your problem but it's where I'd look.

 

This seems to be a problem that no one knows how to repair. I have replaced vacuum hoses, pressure controller, new air filter, diverter valve looks fine. turbo spins freely, wastegate actuator seems to work properly. Can clear the 2885 and then accelerate hard and it comes back every time. Suggestions from anyone that has solved this problem would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Hi jacknk. Did you pressure check the passenger side PCV port on the valve cover as well?

 

Have not done that, is there a recommended way to do this. I had to replace the valve cover a couple of years ago due to a vacuum leak throwing a code.

 

Couple thoughts - there is a round thing on the back (just above the intake manifold) of your valve cover. Is that coated with oil? If so, you need a new valve cover.

I threw this code when my wastegate broke - literally...it would no longer close because the metal "hinge" had broken. If you have a boroscope you might be able to take the top O2 sensor out and inspect it....I didn't do this because I wanted to rebuild my turbo anyway....discovered the wastegate problem (it just kind of rattled it was so loose) when I got the turbo out....

Good luck and keep us in the loop....

 

Disconnect the PCV hose on the passenger side. Find a rubber hose that fits snug inside the port on the valve cover and apply pressure. A couple of psi or hell even blow on it. That port should only allow crankcase pressure out, nothing in. When the intake manifold is pressurized an internal check valve closes preventing boost from entering the valve cover which would then exit out the front PCV port. This will result in a boost pressure loss. It's possible for a shop to miss this during a smoke check.

 

I will do some more checking tomorrow. I don't think it has anything to do with the valve cover since it was doing this before I put the new valve cover on. I will get a hose and do a check.

Can anyone tell or draw where the vacuum hoses go so I can double check. I can't tell from the diagram where they go, in other words where does the hose from the vacuum pump go? Where does the one from the actuator go.?

 

Checked vacuum hoses and don't see a problem. Vacuum pump goes to tank and actuator to controller.

Removed the hose on the back of the valve cover, inserted tight fitting hose into valve cover and tried to blow into valve cover and could not.

Cleared 2885 code took car for a drive and as soon as I accelerate hard the code comes back.

 

Sorry to hear it.....same symptoms as my wastegate issue....