Often times they are replaced out of general principle since the are quasi-consumable and are in the same vacinity of when the timing chain is done. So when the water pump fails 100 miles later, you don't have to pay about the same labor to have it replaced. Just sayin'.

Just had the complete chain\guide\tensioner job done and water pump and belt were in the pre-wrench conversation. Ultimately, neither seem to be required and were put back on. <fingers crossed>

 

This whole thread has me worried. I have an '08 S with 28k on it and just yesterday I heard a high pitched whine or squeal I have never heard before (at idle) and when I turned it off it squealed. Same thing this morning when I turned it off it squealed. I am guessing the timing chain has loosened to the point it needs the tensioner???

 

A squeal probably isn't the timing chain. "Squeals" have generally been the water pump. The TC-rattle sounds more like marbles in a tin can and it's pretty unmistakable. Can you take a video next time?

However, it might be worth doing the slack measurement just because you have an 08 and it's only a matter of time.

 

Yeah, I will try and catch it. The Aux water pump was replaced, so I that would mean the regular one huh?

 

Our '11 MCS popped the yellow engine light over the weekend. Came home from work Friday and fan stayed on for a while. Got in Saturday and the engine light was on, pulled it back in the garage, and again the fan stayed on for several minutes even though the car was only on for 2 minutes. So parked it for the weekend. Now I'm at the dealership, dropping the car off. There is a second recall, Coolant Temp Sensor, which causes the fan to stay on. They're going to check the tensioner as well, and a couple other little checks. Just having to miss a bit of work, and reschedule few things, otherwise not that big of a deal.

 

Yup, I had my coolant temp sensor replaced and some timing tensioner work done as well on my 11' S.

 

this was a bad water pump. got it replaced over the weekend.

 

I've been doing a lot of reading lately and I think I may need to replace my timing belt tensioner.

Here's a quick video. I would appreciate it if you guys would give it a listen.

2008 R56

 

I am hoping because I sprayed Stoners Trim Shine on my engine that is what is causing this.

Short version:
Longer:

 

No reason to guess about the timing chain. Measure the slack as per TSB, or pay a shop to do it. It is a half-hour job.

DOC

 

Wii do doc. Just ordered part# 11314609482.

Thanks.

 

@Anoki - your engine sounds normal. Definitely not a timing chain rattle going on.

@Firewire - I've never heard a squeal like that.

 

Our total out the door price was $625 after getting the whole kit done. They said the chain stretch was 71.5mm I believe? I gotta check the receipt again. But I also got a phone call that my thermostat was leaking while it was in and they wanted another $500 to do it but I passed and took care of it myself for $90 and a hour and half worth of time

 

I was just finishing a track day at Barber Motorsports Park today when I heard that awful rattle of the timing belt tensioner. This will be the second time this has happened to my Mini. The first was covered under the warranty and I sure hope this one will too.

On a good note... I did pass two 2013 Boss 302 Mustangs and one 2012 Camaro SS. I know it drove them nuts! My instructor got a big kick out of us tracking down the Mustangs.

I have an 07 MCS, turbo back exhaust, CAI, larger intercooler and accessport reflash. Very fun day.

 

Can you say "timing chain?"

My 08 MCSa with barely 48k miles on it -- had the aux water pump recall done already.

Took it in for oil change and normal whatever under the extended warranty -- just got a call that I have a timing chain issue; no word on if it's the chain, tensioner, or what.

Now waiting to find out if it's going to be covered under that extended warranty -- all the service work on the car so far has been done by Mini.

Keeping my fingers crossed, and will update when I get more info.

Bleah!

At least I have a loaner -- 2012 Coupe.

Bob in Silicon Valley

***

Update 2012/11/15

The good news, the extended warranty is covering the major work. I'll still be out $200 or so for incidentals and some other things. They're saying Tuesday or Wednesday to get it done... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's done by Thanksgiving, or we're into the next week!

Quite a list of crap -- upper timing chain guide broken. leaking turbo hoses, v-belt cracking, replace timing chain, remove oil pan and remove debris, replace warped valve cover, and then some fun ones, like replacing both leaking lower control arm bushings, one of the horns (don't use the horns that much, I use fingers), and they're replacing the used-to-be-chrome-plated ring on my key fob.

What fun!

The 2012 MCSa Coupe is fun, but it's ticket-me-red, and doesn't have all my electronics crap in it!

Bob in sunny Silicon Valley

 

Finally heard back from North American Mini today. They have chosen not to cover the repair, even though they admitted when they repaired the timing chain tensioner in 2009 they used the same faulty part that broke the first time. They said it is my fault since I take my Mini out for "track days". I am one irritated Mini owner. The dealer I purchased my Mini from actually organized and put on two of the three track days I have participated in. It should not matter how I drive the car if the failure is due to a faulty part. My local Mini dealership is the one that told MNA that the "track day" driving was what caused it. My local dealer will not return my calls. I am planning to go by and chat with them this week.

I told the customer service rep that Mini organized these track days and he said he would take that into consideration.

I love my Mini. Part of the reason is that it has been a car that I could drive to a track and participate in a track day event and then drive home. If I can't rely on the car, the local dealer and the manufacturer I will be forced to sell it. I am very disappointed.

The entire purchase process was so much fun ordering the car for exactly what I wanted and they were great with the one warranty repair. Since then it has been extremely high priced regular maintenance and now a complete lack of customer loyalty with this faulty part. My wife and I have been considering buying her a Countryman, but with this lack of responsibility of MNA doing the right thing about a faulty part I would not consider it.

Just so you know, this is a $650 repair. Not a huge cost but it is more the principle of the matter. They admit it was a faulty original part, then repaired with the same faulty part. My 2007 Mini has less than 27k miles and I take excellent care of it. It is in perfect shape. I had just recently spent $300 on a tech inspection, brake flush and oil change. This dealership is about to lose a potential sell.

I am in sales and would never treat a customer like this. Both my dealer and MNA are idiots for not doing the right thing.

 

09 JCW here, 49,000 miles. Warranty ended Oct 10th, so one month ago. Extended maintenance plan but that doesn't matter obviously.

Death rattle when cold on Friday. One google search shows me this common issue. Called Mini of SF and luckily had time for me this morning (usually it is a week or two delay at the SF dealer).

Just got a phone call. They confirmed there is an issue with it. They are going to see tomorrow morning if it is just the tensioner (was quoted $600 on phone, including tear down which I had to authorize since it is on my dime) or the timing chain as well (was quoted $3800 on phone). I'll get a call tomorrow after they measure it.

The dealer also said they are going to submit a request for Mini to cover a "portion" of the cost, if they "choose to do so out of good will".

I guess this gives them the opportunity to prove to me if I should buy a new GP or not. If they cover 50% of it as some others have experienced here, that is not good enough in my opinion as they are not standing behind their brand a month out of warranty for something this common and frustrating.



UPDATE: Mini covered everything under warranty and replaced the tensioner only.

 

Dejected newbie here seeking advice...

After three short months with my "new" 2007 MINI Cooper S with 82,000 miles, the honeymoon has come to a screeching halt with a car that I truly had come to love. While in for scheduled maintenance today (covered by the extended maintenance plan to 100K miles), I was informed that the rattle I have heard at startup for a few weeks (only when cold) is due to a slack chain... Further, I was informed that a guide is broken!

I was stunned to learn that repairs would cost me $1750! After doing research, it appears that this "death rattle" issue most certainly should have lead to a recall long ago, and, because of this, many either pay $3K to extend the full warranty to 100K or they sell the car when their warranty expires. As my car is well beyond the original bumper-to-bumper warranty, I imagine that I will receive no "good will" from MINI corporate... That is a pity, for the car has an impeccable service history and has always been serviced by MINI.

I really do love this car... Its handling and looks are superb, and 32.5 MPG for the cycle was fantastic! However, now I fear that even after getting it fixed, I will be continually worried that this tensioner problem will resurface... This is so disappointing... Sigh...

Since I bought this car used from an Audi dealership at 82K miles and 4.5 years into its service history, is there any chance on earth that MINI corporate would help me out (i.e., show good will)? If not, have any of you had luck in getting a substantially cheaper overall tab (say around $900) from an independent shop?

If any of you are from the Raleigh area, please recommend (either here on the public forum or, if you are more comfortable, via private message) shops that you trust. I just can't afford to pay $1750 right now and will likely have to park the car for a while if I can't have it fixed for a lower price.

Thanks for reading,

Jonathan

 

Jonathon,

Might want to try posting on tarheelminis.org. Some of our members are familiar with the local shops in the Raleigh area and might have suggestions. I am not familiar with anyone getting the timing chain cartridge replaced at an independent shop or what the cost would be. The only place I'd hold out any hope to be able to do it might be Sneed's Speed Shop near W-S, but I'm not sure whether that is a repair they do.

Good luck!

 

How could I contact MINI to ask for some good will on my car, which is still in the shop, since Nov 14, because the service center failed to replace the tensioner when I took it in for a rattle? It was back a few days later when it failed to start. 2008S, out of warranty at 58,000 miles. Does anyone know whether contacting MINI would help me out? And who the most effective person to contact would be? I bought the car used with 17,000 miles on it in 2009. Thanks for any help!

 

So I recently took my 09 MCS in for a cold start rattle. They measured the chain slack at 70mm but only changed the tensioner citing that the updated SIM 11 02 07 has been updated to only replace the timing chain, rails etc if the timing chain slack measures 72mm or more.

Has anyone else here gotten this explanation? I was under the impression that if chain slack measured 68mm or more everything was replaced. He did email a screenshot of the paragraph in question but I'm still skeptical. Does anyone have an updated version of the the SIM 11 02 07 also?

 

Can you post what you received from your dealer? Personally, I think the "long" tensioner can control up to 72 mm of slack. However, you are going to need a full assembly replacement within 20K miles or less, because changing the tensioner does not slow down the excessive wear rate.

DOC

 

I've got an 2008 Cooper S, 37k miles. It had the death rattle while reving on start ups, when the engine was cold, it lasted till the engine got warm. Took it in for repairs, and was told that the whole timing set replacement was not needed, guide rails were ok, and the newer tensioner will suffice. With new tensioner, engine runs smoother, and interestingly mpg increased. However, after leaving the car in the garage (temps never drop below 0 C / 32 F inside) overnight, and starting it up, then reving it to around 1800-2000 rpm, rattle is back, not for long, 3-5 secs, then it runs smooth again. Is it considered normal?

 

Below is exactly what he was willing to send via email. The SIM I have seen say the threshold to be 68mm not the 72mm seen here.

1. If distance A is less than 72 mm (and the noise can only be reproduced between 1,600-1,800 rpm), only replace the chain tensioner with P/N 11 31 7 607 551.

Discard the seal ring that was originally supplied with the new timing chain tensioner. Refer to Repair Instruction REP 11 31 090, “Installing and removing/replacing chain tensioner piston N14.”

 

I have a question. how far can this timing chain stretch before it snaps? Wouldnt it be better to replace the chain and start from zero again rather then putting a longer tensioner a longer tensioner in stretching it a bit more? Am I missing something? I understand that a little slack is okay, and if it was gear driven there would be horsepower loss,vibration and more costly, But then again your engine wouldnt grenade itself... And for the guys who get more power out of the turbo cars wouldnt this be just asking for the timing chain to break?