Just replaced mine in my '09 Clubman S at 53K miles.

 

Just replaced it on my 07 R56. It wasn't leaking but it wasn't working right. 48k on the odometer. Replaced under extended warranty along with a leaky water pump.

 

Replaced the thermostat housing at 59K. Actually it looked like the sensor that plugs into the housing had the leak which was small. It took my mechanic, who is a pro but had not done one before, 2 hours to do it. This did not strike me as a job for "shade tree" mechanics.

 

new to the mini world, think mine might have been replaced due to orange coolant in mini instead of blue. Car doesn't overheat so will watch it for now.

 

Replaced at 93K. Originally got a CEL with a code of P0599 (thermostat heater control circuit high). No other issues, scan tool indicated engine coolant temp was ok. However, in the time it took to order the part and get a "round tuit" it began a small leak. Since I was looking at 93K I went ahead and did a full cooling system service and replaced all the hoses; radiator, heater, and recovery tank. $360 from ECS Tuning (including the thermostat housing) all OEM Mini. The water pump had been replaced under warranty at about 40K. Took me just under 4 hours. The worst was actually removing enough harness to get enough access. That includes all the spark plug coils and harnesses. The good news is that the OEM hoses come with new clamps that are glued in the right orientation and locked open by either a tab on the clamp or a plastic holder with a finger loop. Push on, pop or pull. The heater connections as well as the bottom of the recover tank have snap fittings. To remove put a screw driver under the clip loop and pull out, hose just pulls off then. The new hose just pushes on and the clip snaps. Easy peasy. While bemoaning the fact that a thermostat for a chevy is 8 bucks, the housing never fails, two bolts remove it sometimes without even needing to pull the hose, I have struggled mightily leaning down at the bottom of the firewall trying to pry off the heater hoses without damaging the core.
CEL cleared with the new housing (didn't need the scan tool to reset it). All that said this seems to be very complicated for a thermostat and for something so buried under harnesses not very reliable. Has to be the BMW influence, probably few BMW owners work on their cars.

 

Just replaced thermostat at 35,000 miles. I had some minor leaking at the temperature sensor and recently a P0597 code indicating thermostat failed. Only needed to unclip the 2 electrical connectors and the brake booster vacuum line on the engine cover for access. The wiring harness then can slide up an inch or so as a previous poster said. A wobble socket extension set was helpful to get to the 3 bolts holding the thermostat on.
Getting that clip back on that holds the thermostat to the water pipe under the intake manifold was hard to do. I stuck a piece of tape on it for retrieval in case I dropped it. This thread was very helpful to me in deciding to do this job. Thanks!

 

Part # 11537534521KT3 or 11537534521KT4


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11537534521KT/




Yes three bolts of the thermostat housing to the head. We have it in the thermostat kit. Make sure you clean the surface a little before attaching the new thermostat, in-case there is gunk built up around the seal of the old one, blue gasket.

You can see the rear connect on the left hand side of the thermostat housing . Connects to the water pipe with a clip that holds it in place.

Water Pipe


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537589713/



Bottom left hand side connects to the thermostat housing. There is that little clip, fits into the slot on the water pipe and holds them together.

In stock. Just in-case you go to do it and loose one or bend it.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537548652/



Thanks

 

Mine lasted about 5 years and 49 k miles. My independent garage service told me that they've done 'several' of these on Minis. Cracked thermostat housing. Im past warranty so it was about $350 to fix. Mini wanted about another hundred to do it.
This has been my only repair of a faulty design piece on the Justa Cooper. A retro-recall as on the R 50, R53 steering pumps would be nice.

 

My thermostat housing was replaced because of the solenoid valve fix. The updated parts did not fit with the old thermostat housing so they replaced mine with the updated part also.

 

My wife's '08 S just got back from the shop having the water pump replaced under her extended warranty. The SA initially said the thermostat housing was leaking, eventually to tell us the thermostat needed to be replaced. I have read through SEVERAL forums and blogs only to get conflicting info. I have found a couple "manuals/guides" that show the thermostat as a separate component, however I read a thread that states the thermostat is built into the housing requiring the entire unit be replaced. That being said, is this indeed the case or can the thermostat itself be replaced WITHOUT replacing the entire housing? Just want to be prepared with ALL components necessary on hand before tearing into this thing.

 

Just replaced mine. The thermostat is enclosed and sealed within the plastic housing and thus cannot be replaced separately.
If it is just leaking around the coolant temperature sensor you can replace only that ($25) instead of the entire thermostat unit.

 

+1 The thermostat is encased in the thermostat housing. Part number 11537534521KT


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11537534521KT



If you need the Temp sensor its located at the top of the thermostat and contains a O-ring. And held in with a clip.





#5 is the temp sensor in the diagram

#6 is the O-ring in the diagram

Temp sensor Part number 13627535068

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/13627535068/



&

O - Ring Part number 11537547824


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537547824/


Thanks and hope that helps.

Minihusband -Also on the 08' Cooper S , if its a ( Gen 1) R52 2008 Cooper S Convertible, that's possible what there were referring to, as the thermostat is separate from the housing. This is the Gen 2 ( R55 R56 R57+ chassis ) forums, which has the thermostat housing and thermostat all in one.

 

Just replaced mine to weeks ago. Not hard job, just work space is small.

 

Bought a new housing at 60K, no codes. However, old one was repaired with JB Weld (500 deg F). The grove between the two halves of the housing was rinsed with water, brushed out with methanol and dried prior to the JB Weld application around the entire housing--this cleaned out residual ethylene glycol. The epoxy was mixed and pushed into the grove with my finger wrapped in a towel, then added more epoxy. I tightened a circlip around the extension on the thermostat housing (2 inches behind the rubber O-ring; 1 inch behind the fastening clip that connects the water pipe to the thermostat housing behind the engine). The is expected to prevent expansion of the housing in that problem leak area.

After 2 weeks of extensive freeway driving with the AC on, no sign of dripping, yet. New housing is on its way, just in case. Aftermarket temperature gauge (inside car) reads steady and no more pinging.

NOTE: I initially fixed an obvious leak by replacing the O-ring in the coupler attached to the expansion tank, without noticing the leak in the thermostat housing at the back of the engine. My guess is the thermostat housing leaked first, created an overheating situation (and pinging), which caused the expansion tank leak. I find the engineering of the BMW/MINI is ingenious for rapid initial manufacturing assembly, but intrigued by the application of push-fit, O-ring junctions and plastic for relatively high temperature engine functions.

 

The Germans can't make anything simple, they have to over-engineer everything. With all the issues people have had, you would think they would correct the problem but i guess they like charging their faithful customers $200.00 plus labor. Keeps money rolling into their dealerships. I bought mine on line and did it myself. That was about 20k ago so I should be due in about 20k-30k. Just in case there are any German engineers listening, don't design a plastic thermostat housing that has two halves glued together. "IT DOESN'T WORK!"lol

 

I have just replaced mine at ~40K miles. Got a DTC P0597, took it to Bolts Garage in Hudson, MA. Dave is a very cool guy, he suggested I do it if I can, and sold me the thermostat for $110 and a gallon of BMW coolant for $25. Fair enough.

Took me 5-6 hours, including a trip to Sears to get a pair of hose-clamp pliers. I have purchased 2 different types (http://tinyurl.com/kbnz3wt and http://tinyurl.com/m2mau8a) One of them was about 40 bucks, the other about 10, thinking I can try the cheap one and if it works then return the expensive one. Thankfully it worked, so I will return the complicated machinery.

To anyone that will ever do any work that includes steel hose clamps, I wholeheartedly recommend getting one tool or another! After one clamp, I started looking around to improvise a tool, as obviously lineman's pliers were not going to do it. Tried safety wire, highly modified worm-drive clamps, zip-ties etc. and then gave up. The simple 10 dollar tool saved me from going into an absolute foul mood (which my wife should be happy about!)

I have the BMW factory manual on the computer, and it was prescribing the removal of air intake manifold. Thankfully in practice no such thing is necessary, as long as you have elf like hands with pliable bones and abrasion-proof lizard skin. Also reciting the swear-word repertoire you have acquired all your life helps for motivation, too.

My one ****up was not having read the coolant label. I am used to no-mix coolants from bikes, but of course this one needed 50/50 water. Go back under, bleed enough thick-gooey coolant, add distilled water from the top, hope it is enough... I think I got a 60/40 coolant/water mixture (which is listed on the label as heavy conditions super-hot/super-cold). I will be autocrossing so it might be considered heavy... I will bleed some more and add some more distilled water later.

Other than this issue, I was impressed that I was able to put all the hoses and connectors together without having left-over screws!

 

As much as these things fail; I'm tempted to just buy the parts from ECS to have on hand before it fails. What a screwed up design!!!!

 

Anyone heard of this part for a 2008 being on back order from Germany for 3-4 WEEKS?!?! That's what dealer claims!!! Seriously?!?! How long does it take to melt plastic?!?!
Mine starting leaking fluid a week and a half ago and they state that it is the thermostat that blew. But I can't drive her until it's fixed!!! I just want to see if I can find one myself!

 

Bmw Germany is having a major supply problem lately. I read people have cars waiting for parts for months

 

Well, did you start looking? I got mine from ECS Tuning, who has posted above. I think you may get one through Way Motor Works also. I honestly don't know the BMW supply chain and they may also source them through BMW, but their are other sources. Remember, Google is your friend!

 

Been waiting 5 weeks now for a thermostat housing being serviced under warranty. Was told by the dealership they were sitting at Customs two weeks ago, and was told today that it was day to day on arrival of the part.

 

My thermostat housing blew causing coolant loss. Engine overheated and warped the head and bent valves.
Mini says there are 15,000 on backorder nationwide with no indication of availability.
Supposedly one dealership in SC is purchasing whole engines just to get the housing so they can service the vehicles in their shop.
It's a problem!

 

Mines had a slight loss of coolant for a few weeks. Causing a quick light, then would go away. A spike a would assume and since it wasn't continuous hopefully didn't cause any harm. Couldn't pin it down as there was nothing on the ground. Lately its gotten much worse and few more spikes to cause a quick light. Found the dried residue on the transmission so seems to be the stat housing. Mines at 85k. on a 09 MCS. And of course no one has one because of the back order. However dealer says hopefully mid next week they should see some and put my name on one. Crossing fingers. I add at least 20oz of coolant mixture to the res. a day, some days its not much loss, others there's a sizable puddle. I go into the obc and set it up to see coolant temps at all times now and watch it like a hawk. Mine will jump around almost 20C at times. I probably have alot of air in the system though. However still trying to drive a less as possible till I can replace it. Can't imagine having to wait 4-5 weeks. I would assume those under warranty would at least have a loaner to drive.

Can't wait to get my E30 done and be done with R56. It hasn't been a huge problem child, but don't want to wait around for that bubble to burst.

 

My son's 07 just went bad. PO0599 I think the code is. No fluid loss yet or apparent overheating via idiot light. Also, no thermostats to be had! Car has just over 90k.

 

I, too, have a dead Cooper (2008 MCS, 55k mi) with a cracked thermostat housing. My shop is calling all around to find one; my dealership said they have many people waiting and 16,000 nationwide are on backorder.

I see three "Buy it now" auctions on eBay for $800-850.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MINI-COOPER-GENUINE-Thermostat-Housing-Gasket-11-53-7-534-521-/320857277758?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab495853e&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Genuine-Cooper-R55-R56-R57-Thermostat-with-Housing-and-Gasket-105-deg-C-/370732345973?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56515eaa75&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mini-Cooper-R55-R56-R57-Thermostat-with-Housing-and-Gasket-T-Stat-/370750758105?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5652779cd9&vxp=mtr