Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

urgent, ATI S.Damper

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  #1  
Old 03-09-2012 | 07:42 AM
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faer
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urgent, ATI S.Damper

Hi, my crank pulley broke, so i went for the ATI super damper pulley. my car is a 2005 R53
the thing is my mechanic is saying he is having trouble in installing the new damper. he says my crankshaft doesn't have the bore mark to which align the damper, which comes with a counterbore area.
he has heated the damper and says he can't go through to half way....
has anyone experienced this? any advise?

please help, as i've been over a month waiting for my car to be ok...
thank you

francisco
 
  #2  
Old 03-09-2012 | 09:17 AM
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quikmni
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From: Orcutt, CA
I just installed an ATI crank pulley a couple of weeks ago. There is no alingment mark or pin on the crankshaft (I was a little surprised). The pulley is just a press fit. The instructions suggest heating the center portion of the pulley, I used a heat gun. I used the provided 12mm allen bolt with washer to start the pulley onto the crackshaft. I took the allen bolt back off and then used the old crank bolt to finish pressing the pulley onto the crankshaft. I then removed the old crank bolt and installed a new crank bolt with loctite and torqued it down. Everything lined up fine.
 
  #3  
Old 03-09-2012 | 10:48 AM
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faer
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thank you, it is like you said, you have to use the provided bolt to start pressing the pulley and then change to the original bolt to finish the job, just that. i had to visit them and read the instructions carefully to them....hope they do it right.
the strange thing is the inexistance of the alingment mark on the crank, but who knows....
thanks

fco
 
  #4  
Old 03-09-2012 | 10:51 AM
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blue2turbo
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by quikmni
I just installed an ATI crank pulley a couple of weeks ago. There is no alingment mark or pin on the crankshaft (I was a little surprised). The pulley is just a press fit. The instructions suggest heating the center portion of the pulley, I used a heat gun. I used the provided 12mm allen bolt with washer to start the pulley onto the crackshaft. I took the allen bolt back off and then used the old crank bolt to finish pressing the pulley onto the crankshaft. I then removed the old crank bolt and installed a new crank bolt with loctite and torqued it down. Everything lined up fine.
I just did this about a month and a half ago as well and followed these same steps as instructed in the ATI instructions. Worked just fine. Should be able to put the pulley on slightly by hand and use supplied hardware from there.
 
  #5  
Old 03-09-2012 | 11:03 AM
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jpavlo
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From: Endicott, NY
Nice how a small block Chevy crank pulley workable on MINI
 
  #6  
Old 03-09-2012 | 11:34 AM
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quikmni
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From: Orcutt, CA
Since they isn't any timing marks required on the crank pulley (such as timing with a timing light) there is no need to align the pulley to any specific point on the crank. There is a crankshaft position sensor that keeps track of the crank rotation. The timing gear on the crank, that drives the timing belt, does need an alignment pin for proper alignment/timing of the crank to the cam.

Originally Posted by faer
thank you, it is like you said, you have to use the provided bolt to start pressing the pulley and then change to the original bolt to finish the job, just that. i had to visit them and read the instructions carefully to them....hope they do it right.
the strange thing is the inexistance of the alingment mark on the crank, but who knows....
thanks

fco
 
  #7  
Old 03-09-2012 | 01:27 PM
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HRM
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From: Darien, CT
  #8  
Old 03-14-2012 | 12:59 PM
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faer
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well, the set up runs great, it really adds up in response. the only strange think i experienced today was some kind of hesitation when flooring the gas pedal over 40/50 mph, like a cough.....any ideas on what that might be? should i try an inyector cleaner?

thanks

Fco
 
  #9  
Old 03-14-2012 | 08:12 PM
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NH_MCS
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From: NH
Check your coil terminals for corrosion. I had a "cough" and a new coil/wires completely cured it.
 
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