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Loss of boost/torque after turbocharger replacement

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Old 03-15-2012, 11:00 AM
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Updated: Loss of boost/torque after turbocharger replacement

A small update on this. I was poking around the engine bay checking sensor connections, etc.. On the compression side of the turbo where the intake pipe joins to the turbo, there is an orange seal. It looked like it could be pushed closer to the turbo by about 2 mm. I did this. Then I wondered if it would move in the opposite direction. Well, turns out I can slide this pipe right off the turbo so that I can see inside the turbo itself. Pipe will then slide back on. It hasn't come off during driving, but I don't think this is normal.

I know most people on here have "S" versions, but the turbo on the "S" is the same Garrett unit as on the "D" model. Can anyone tell me if their pipe with the orange gasket is secure or does it move?


Hi all,

I have a 2009 Clubman with a diesel engine - it's a European model. However, I don't think the fact that it's a diesel is 100% relevant here.

The car had a clutch and flywheel replacement in December. When the dealership put the engine back together they damaged the turbocharger and I had raw diesel exhaust and soot all over the engine bay. Mini goodwilled the replacement of the Garrett turbo in its entirety (good thing too, the turbo alone was €1600 without labour). Despite leaking exhaust the old, damaged turbo was generating decent boost. However, the new unit seems weak in comparison to the old. Both the old Garrett and the wastegate were replaced. I've had air and fuel filter changes - the two usual suspects when a diesel engine loses power. In addition the air intake pipe was replaced as the garage also damaged all the retaining clips on the intake pipe. Nice, I know. Anyways, the repairs were carried out at another dealership.

The problem is that the car doesn't seem to have the "oompf" or power that it did when the old turbo was there. The engine seems "louder" and I get kind of a fluttering noise when driving. It almost sounds like an exhaust leak or something, but I've had it tested for leaks and there seem to be none. I'm puzzled as to the lack of power, especially since the clutch, flywheel and turbo are new. I'd make a recording, but I'm afraid that over the normal diesel clatter the noise can't be heard.

Dealership can't pull any error codes from the car and they seem stumped. All vacuum hoses and vacuum system have been checked for leaks as well - none found. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what avenue I can pursue to figure this out? The loss of power is kind of annoying. I used to get the turbo to kick in between 1500 and 1800 rpms, now it seems I can sense some boost closer to 3000rpm, but it's still in the high rev range and flat in comparison to when the old unit was in the car.

Thanks for any help. I'm almost sure it isn't a big issue, just something small that nobody seems able to pinpoint.

EDIT: Aw, crud. This should be in the 2nd Generation Forums - sorry.
 

Last edited by MiniDeLux; 03-17-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: update on the problem
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:22 PM
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My best advice is that if you are completely sure the power is less, as you seem it, keep pressuring the dealership to give it a solid, full look at the car as well as a test drive to see if they feel it too.
 
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:47 PM
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Hi, thanks for the reply.

Yeah, I already pursued that avenue. The dealership says they think it's okay, but I know my car. I used to be able to spin the wheels from a dead stop (the diesel engine produces the same amount of torque as the 2nd generation "S" models). The car used to throw me back in my seat on hard acceleration. Now I have to be careful about pulling into traffic. The car drives like it's naturally aspirated rather than turbocharged, in my opinion. The turbo only seems to kick in at really high rpms and even then it's kind of a weak boost.

I'm wondering about a couple of potential issues:
1.) would a malfunctioning wastegate produce symptoms like this?
2.) Dirty MAF sensor? (but I would think that would throw a code, no?)
3.) A bad charge air temperature sensor, perhaps?

If anyone else has any ideas, I'm all ears...


Originally Posted by yetti96
My best advice is that if you are completely sure the power is less, as you seem it, keep pressuring the dealership to give it a solid, full look at the car as well as a test drive to see if they feel it too.
 
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:37 PM
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If it's not throwing any codes, I'd go right back to the turbo itself....maybe the techs left a shop rag in there somewhere?

Yes it could be a waste gate stuck part way open or something, but I'd think you'd get a code.

Good luck and let us know what you find....
 
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:48 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

They're a pretty competent outfit and I've inspected the turbo - at least visually - and it seems okay. Can't really disassemble it as I don't have the expertise or tools to take the front of the car apart. From what I can see visually, the wastegate seems to be functioning properly at idle when the car is revved, but I can't see it operate under driving conditions. The turbo is a new Garrett unit. I can hear it spinning up with its distinctive whine and they told me the oil supply line was clear when they replaced the old unit.

I'd love to be able to find something and report it, but that's pretty much my problem. I'm not sure what else to look for. I mean, the turbo may be a precision piece of equipment, but it's fairly simple, mechanically.

I'm putting my money on a sensor or something, but I don't understand the lack of error codes. Maybe it's an issue with the variable vanes or something? Is there another sensor I should be looking at?

I was pretty sure it was a vacuum issue - the vacuum pump controls the wastegate. I figured that the boost getting produced at high revs was the fact that the camshaft, which drives the vaccuum pump, was overcoming any problems with the vac pump. Therefore the wastegate was closing.

So I sat in the parking lot with the car idling and pumped the brakes like a madman. They got really stiff and then the pedal started to creep away from me, so I'm pretty certain the vacuum system is okay (and it was tested as well by the shop).

Can I try disconnecting the MAF and see what happens?

What about the catalytic converter and/or diesel particle filter? Could there be a potential issue with either one of these?





Originally Posted by MINIdave
If it's not throwing any codes, I'd go right back to the turbo itself....maybe the techs left a shop rag in there somewhere?

Yes it could be a waste gate stuck part way open or something, but I'd think you'd get a code.

Good luck and let us know what you find....
 
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Old 03-16-2012, 04:49 AM
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Any chance you could borrow a scangauge to check the boost levels during driving? The boost tubes could also be loose at the turbo or intercooler, effectively losing power.
 
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:25 AM
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I don't know anyone with a scanguage, unfortunately.

I'm guessing a dealer should have one though, no?

I was looking on the Peugeot forums (they use the same HDi engine as the Mini) and someone was mentioning something about air dozers and solenoid vacuum valves. In some cases, owners were complaining that there were no error codes present, but the solenoids were not functioning properly.

Also, If I understood correctly, the air dozer was located on the intercooler somewhere. I don't know if maybe that has something to do with it?

Could be worth inspecting the intercooler. Do you know if that's labour intensive or if it can be easily accessed? I think the intercooler on the "D" models is in the same place as the "S", down front at the bottom of the engine bay.

Originally Posted by yetti96
Any chance you could borrow a scangauge to check the boost levels during driving? The boost tubes could also be loose at the turbo or intercooler, effectively losing power.
 
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