I have started to notice that after driving around for a while, the clutch pedal starts to feel "crunchy" and it's hard to let out smooth when I'm starting from a stop. I don't really notice it when I push the pedal in unless I push it in really slow...then I can feel it.

When the motor is cold, it's smooth as can be..like it should be. But after everything warms up, I can start to feel it.

I got up under the car, pulled the clutch slave cylinder off and greased the ball and socket joint where it pivots......thinking this was the problem after seeing some post where others said that fixed it. Well...that didn't fix it.

The car has 96,xxx miles on it....not sure if it's got the original clutch in it or now (bought the car used last year), but the clutch holds like a champ, and I don't have any noise coming from the clutch throwout bearing. What else could it be? Could it be the springs/fingers on the pressure plate? Could it be the slave cylinder itself??

It's more annoying than anything.....just looking for some ideas.

 

Mine doesnt really feel crunchy but it creaks quite a bit. Maybe thats what you are referring to?

 

Yes, it creaks and makes some noise also.....but I can really feel it through the pedal. It's mostly right down at the bottom, right before the pedal is all the way down to the floor. It just feels gritty, crunchy, and rough...not smooth like it should be.

 

Its your throw-out bearing. The bearing and sleeve combination was of poor design and accounts for the feeling you describe.

 

I had the same thing too. A new throwout bearing, and clutch, fixed it.

 

Yes sounds like a throw out bearing, time for a clutch kit. and while your doing it get the guide tube just in case.

 

Well, if I'm going to have to do that major of a job...I'll just keep running it for a while. I can deal with it for now. I was just hoping that it might be an easy fix....but I guess not.

 

Count me as being in the same boat. Whats the cost to have a throw out bearing installed and is this a DIY project or better left to a pro??

 

I'm pretty sure that in order to get to the bearing you have to pull the transmission out. And if you are going to go to all of that trouble , you might as well put a new clutch and pressure plate in it also. It all depends on your mechanical ability. It looks like a tough job....but not impossible. I will have to do it one of these days........

 

The throw out bearing in itself is only a $70 part but in order to get to it, you will need to drop the transmission and in order to get to the transmission, you will need to drop the subframe. With the transmission removed you might as well replace the clutch and flywheel. With the subframe off you might as well replace the control arm bushing

All in all...around $1500 with labor.

 

I have this problem as well. I plan on just running it until it goes, and then I'll do the clutch/flywheel while the tranny is out. It's definitely annoying everytime I push the clutch in though.

 

Can anyone explain (for dummies version) what exactly the "throw out bearing" does and how the MINI's is of poor design? (I know in general how a clutch works, but am not familiar with the "throwout bearing.") Thanks!

 

The throw out bearing is the bearing that sits between your clutch fork and your pressure plate. Whenever you push your clutch pedal, it turns your clutch fork towards the motor lifting the throw out bearing over the transmission shaft and putting pressure on the pressure plate to engage and disengage your clutch. The video below shows a good demonstration. In the animation in the video, the red circle part is your throw out bearing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BaECAbapRg

I believe the MINI throw out bearings break because a part of housing is made of plastic and is just not sufficient at handling the load.


You can certainly do that but keep in mind that there's a risk of damaging your transfercase. I've seen people post pictures of their transfer case after their throw out bearing explodes and it's a mess. Basically what you get is a grenade effect. All the little bearings shoot all over the place pelting and damaging the transfercase.

 

I think that if you have a bad throw-out bearing....you should be able to hear it....right? My clutch pedal feels. Crunchy even if the motor isn't running (bearing not turning). I'm saying it has something to do with the fingers on the pressure plate, or maybe a worn plastic sleeve that the bearing actually slides on. I've had throw out bearing go bad on other cars.....and they get really loud and "rattley" before they go.

 

They wouldn't necessarily get loud. It would really depend on the type of bearing. Maybe it's the plastic housing itself that allows it to remain somewhat quiet or just creaky instead of a rattle. I think everyone here would agree that what you have is very likely a bad throw out bearing.

 

Ah, I see. Thanks.

 

Bad habits cause most of these issues with the TO bearing. Leaving your foot on the clutch at lights, or in traffic just causes it to heat up for no reason. Your clutch should be depressed only as you change gears and for no other reason. Leave it in neutral with your clutch out at lights until it is time to go.

I bet 90% of cars with this problem have been driven by folks that heat it up all the time.

 

HRM: I beg to differ. I have driven stick shifts most of my life and never ride, dump, or otherwise abuse the clutch. Yet, in my 2004 MINI the clutch has always had this 'crunchy' sensation, which I have come to realize is due to the faulty design of the throw-out bearing and guide sleeve.

 

You are the 10% or you bought it used, besides, I am not talking about any abuse, just leaving the foot on the clutch at lights.

 

I think the MINI TO bearing is a bad design in general. While it would help not to sit on the clutch pedal, compared to other designs, it's just simply inferior.

 

HRM: I'm original owner. 116K.

 

Hey, I'm new here, got my first MINI recently, and was just wondering about the proper clutch stoplight procedures. Back in '91 I failed a driving test precisely because I shifted to neutral and took my foot off the clutch at a stoplight. Got the safety lecture about potentially getting launched into the intersection if I got rear ended and all that. Since then I have always waited at stoplights in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed. You get used to it. Never before heard a complaint from a clutch about this until I got my MINI. It, like many of them, has a diesel engine sound to it when in neutral with the clutch pedal up that goes away when the pedal is depressed. If I let the clutch pedal out slowly, it won't chatter. Since I budgeted for a new clutch when I bought it with 73K miles on it, I'm not too fussed about just replacing it, but I really wouldn't mind waiting until my 14 and 17-year old kids learn to drive it.

Which brings up my main concern here: What should I teach my kids to do at stoplights? Safety is first, passing the driving test is second, and the health of the clutch is last. If that whole thing about being in first gear being safer has been de-bunked then I'm OK with it.

Thanks for any insights.

 

Personally I would want to move forward if I was rear ended. Anything to mitigate the deceleration will help prevent injuries. Your foot on the brake is going to prevent the wheels from turning, not a car in first gear. I can't see any correlation.

I just don't understand how a car in gear with a clutch in will behave any differently than a car in neutral. Either way the engine is disengaged, and with the clutch out, at least the bearing isn't working for no reason.

I call BS on the instructor and want to see that safety tip in writing...lol

It doesn't make sense to me.

Now, you don't want to coast while turning in traffic. You may need to give it gas, but that makes sense and this thing about hit from behind makes no sense at all to me.

 

Believe it or not this is widely debated and instructors generally do advise to keep your foot planted on the clutch. The idea is that the impact will cause you to release your clutch pedal and help lock the motor and prevent the car for moving forward without resistance. Personally, I keep mine in neutral.

 

Great, release the pedal, and with forward momentum the car won't stall so you can go driving off into the sunset. Heck, even if it stalls you may get lucky and jump start it.

Still don't see it being safe, but whatever.

I guess my main point was that after 110K miles, mine looked so new when I swapped out the clutch, I didn't even use the replacement I had already bought. I just sold it in the marketplace. Personally, I never leave my foot on the pedal.