Trunk and door problems 2003 S
#1
Trunk and door problems 2003 S
My key fob stopped opening my boot a year or so ago. I started using the release under the back seat after that, and eventually realized that every time I open my boot, water pours out of the small opening at the bottom. The trunk release on the boot does nothing, and I'm not sure if it's electrical or not.
Also, the key fob no longer opens my driver's side door. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Also, the key fob no longer opens my driver's side door. Any thoughts or suggestions?
#2
First off, they trunk release on the hatch is electrical. There is a microswitch that closes a contact when the handle is squeezed. As with my mini, my microswitch is dislodged so I have to squeeze my handle in a specific way and hold for a second or two to get the hatch to open. Yes it is very annoying so I feel your pain. I'm in the habit of always having one of the back seats folded down because I never know when I'll have problems opening it.
Second, you need to find out where your water is coming in. If your seal around the hatch opening is free of rips or tears then perhaps your handle is taking in water. I have heard cases where the rubber seal for the handle/license plate light bar seal becomes faulty and takes in water.
In either case, it seems pretty clear that you likely need a new handle for your hatch.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=41&fg=60
This diagram on RealOEM should help you identify possible parts and prices that will need replaced. Pop off the rear hatch interior panel and get out the flashlight. Sit in the back of the MINI with the hatch closed and have a kid spray the rear of your MINI with a hose until you see where the water is coming in.
This is exactly what a technician would do in the dealership. Its not rocket science so it should at least be able to save you some $$ on diag that you can now put towards replacement parts.
As far as your driver door...does the key fob unlock your passenger door? If you are inside the car and hit the lock unlock button on the center console toggle switch, does that activate your hatch and or driver door lock (and or passenger door lock).
You'll need to track down what works and what doesn't to identify whether this is related (like a possible k-bus CAN wiring issue due to water intrusion, or whether your driver door lock is faulty and unrelated to the hatch.. .
Second, you need to find out where your water is coming in. If your seal around the hatch opening is free of rips or tears then perhaps your handle is taking in water. I have heard cases where the rubber seal for the handle/license plate light bar seal becomes faulty and takes in water.
In either case, it seems pretty clear that you likely need a new handle for your hatch.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=41&fg=60
This diagram on RealOEM should help you identify possible parts and prices that will need replaced. Pop off the rear hatch interior panel and get out the flashlight. Sit in the back of the MINI with the hatch closed and have a kid spray the rear of your MINI with a hose until you see where the water is coming in.
This is exactly what a technician would do in the dealership. Its not rocket science so it should at least be able to save you some $$ on diag that you can now put towards replacement parts.
As far as your driver door...does the key fob unlock your passenger door? If you are inside the car and hit the lock unlock button on the center console toggle switch, does that activate your hatch and or driver door lock (and or passenger door lock).
You'll need to track down what works and what doesn't to identify whether this is related (like a possible k-bus CAN wiring issue due to water intrusion, or whether your driver door lock is faulty and unrelated to the hatch.. .
#3
Don't buy a new handle like I almost did, you can fix it yourself with a soldering iron.
I bet your license plate lights don't work either, take the handle off the car, and look at the top, pop off the plastic tabs, they'll probably break, and make sure there are 3 wires solidly connected to each light housing, no corrosion.
There will be corrosion, so scrape it off and solder in a solid connection.
The electric signal to open the hatch goes through the switch, then the lights and then to the latch.
Piece of crap if you ask me. My license plate lights, 3rd brake light, and handle didn't work for the longest time. The lights still don't. Been too busy to fix those, and you have to remove the spoiler to fix the 3rd brake light.
I bet your license plate lights don't work either, take the handle off the car, and look at the top, pop off the plastic tabs, they'll probably break, and make sure there are 3 wires solidly connected to each light housing, no corrosion.
There will be corrosion, so scrape it off and solder in a solid connection.
The electric signal to open the hatch goes through the switch, then the lights and then to the latch.
Piece of crap if you ask me. My license plate lights, 3rd brake light, and handle didn't work for the longest time. The lights still don't. Been too busy to fix those, and you have to remove the spoiler to fix the 3rd brake light.
#4
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