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CEL after my first oil change?

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  #1  
Old 09-06-2012 | 12:44 PM
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CEL after my first oil change?

So I just picked my baby up about a week ago. I decided not to trust the service counters on the computer and do everything now I could think of. One of those things was an oil change. Good thing too cause the computer said 12k miles till the next one but the oil was BLACK!

So I did the oil and filter change. I know some drops came out of the filter housing and dribbled down to the ground but that's all. I also was certain to fill the oil to the proper amount and check it a few times.

Immediately after doing the oil change, though, I got a CEL. Increased emissions. Any ideas? I didn't think the oil could mess with the fuel or emissions systems. I took it to the dealer and they wanted $130 to diagnose so I said no. She also said I may not have put the gas cap on perfectly and it may have to be reset for the $130. What should I do??

For reference I have a 07 MCS with 113k miles. 6sp Manual. My first full fill up last week was regular gas cause I'm stupid and a creature of habit. I then put 7 gallons of super in the other day about 50 miles before the cel came on.
 
  #2  
Old 09-06-2012 | 01:39 PM
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full synthetic tends to turn color once it gets hot and cooks for a while IME . . . I don't think I've ever see motor oil come out of a MINI that wasn't black no matter the change interval and I've been doing my changes and for others since I bought my first 2002 new off the lot.

And regular is detected by the computer which simply detunes the car by adjusting the timing (knock sensors) - once it detects the higher octane it adjusts back. No harm done there.

Are you sure the CEL is emissions or are you saying that generically?
 
  #3  
Old 09-06-2012 | 01:45 PM
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After the CEL flashes on, my nav screen says "Increased Emissions" at the bottom of it.
 
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Old 09-06-2012 | 02:06 PM
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hmmmm .. the NAV system's msg

The 'core' function of the Check Engine Light IS emissions and this is a reason I always tell folks not to panic when they see it. It does NOT mean your motor is coming apart at the seams.

But that's the CORE function and different builders add different functions/codes. What your CEL means now is the computer threw a code. Sometimes the CEL will go out indicating a temporary problem, and other times it will stay lit. At one time my 10 year old Miata would lite the CEL on any damp morning, but go out for the afternoon drive home when things dried out (living in San Fran) But I digress

I'd do two things

1. Go to a chain auto part store like AutoZone, they will read the code for free. Come back and tell us what code you threw and then we may be able to provide more help.

2. For grins, check your coolant level in the tank you moved to remove the filter. You could have created a leak at the bottom hose connection and you coolant is low . . . have I had this problem? Why would you ask that?
 
  #5  
Old 09-06-2012 | 02:10 PM
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BJ! Thanks! I didn't even think to check the coolant parts I jostled around when doing the filter. I'm going out right this second to check on that. I will be visiting an advance auto in the morning to get the code read as I am at work and can't do it now. I'll let you know about the coolant when I get back in.

And I'm not panicking about it being on but since it is new, I have to get it state inspected. It will not pass with a CEL on so I need to get it at least reset for the inspection.
 
  #6  
Old 09-06-2012 | 02:28 PM
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Also, check your fuel filler cap. It's one of the more popular causes of "mystery CELs". An easy one to overlook.
 
  #7  
Old 09-06-2012 | 02:41 PM
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The coolant bottle is fine. Checked the oil again and it's just at the high line. I checked the gas cap at the dealership. Felt fine. Took it out and reseated it a couple times just in case. There's no button push code I can do to get the code? Like left, right, left right, a,b,a,b,start, select?
 
  #8  
Old 09-06-2012 | 05:11 PM
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Also, I'd like to reset the code to see if it comes back. Does the dealer have to do this?
 
  #9  
Old 09-06-2012 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugler
After the CEL flashes on, my nav screen says "Increased Emissions" at the bottom of it.
Anytime the CEL flashes, the ECU is letting you know it's detected a serious electrical misfire in the ignition system.
The reason why the "increased emissions" statement is posted is that due to the misfire, unburned fuel is going through the combustion chamber.
And the unburned fuel is reaching the catalyst causing a significant increase in hydrocarbons; therefore increased emissions.

I'd check the ignition system, including the plugs for any loose connections or faulty components.

Originally Posted by Bugler
Also, I'd like to reset the code to see if it comes back. Does the dealer have to do this?
The dealer isn't required, but a OBDII scan tool is.
The only way to remove the CEL and clear out the hard fault stored in the ECU's memory is through a scanner.

- Erik
 
  #10  
Old 09-06-2012 | 05:24 PM
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I'll get the code read tomorrow before I start anything major but I assume I can check plug wires and such, maybe remove and "read" the plugs? I feel no difference in performance or drivability from the moment I test drove it till the light came on and for the couple hundred miles since it showed up.
 
  #11  
Old 09-07-2012 | 05:46 AM
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Fresh back from Advance Auto Parts. The code it is throwing is P0128. Something about the thermostat.

Advance says thermostat is like $13 here. Dealer says $113. Why such a big difference? Checked replacement cost. Over $500! Service said $200 in parts. What else do they replace besides the t-stat? Hopefully it's stuck open or something instead of closed.

How hard is this job? Does it need to be done immediately? Is it even the thermostat or could it be some sensor somewhere?

Advice? Ready, go!
 
  #12  
Old 09-07-2012 | 06:04 AM
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looks like the parts store threw a 'generic' themostat price out - sadly this IS a case where the MINI part is different and unique. & I believe the actual problem is often found to be the housing and not the ther' itself.

MiniMania (not the cheapest but ...) says $136 for therm, and housing and the temp sensor
http://new.minimania.com/part/G2NME1...6-57-Cooper--S

never had to change one but I understand the 'unique' comes from an integrated gasket . . . search and you'll find threads and I think a DIY or two. It is a small bit of an access issue so there is extra labor cost involved as compared to changing the therm' on my '79 - which IS a $15 part!


if it is not leaking I'd watch it for a while....check the wire connection on the sensor...
 
  #13  
Old 09-07-2012 | 06:16 AM
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I'll check all connections. It may be too much a coincidence that it pops up right after moving the overflow tank for the oil change. I can't just watch it though. I need to get my state inspection done so the cel needs to go away. Advance couldn't reset it with their tool. Maybe autozone can? The dealer has the part in stock so aftr checking what I can, I guess I'll go there and cough up the cash for the new housing. Might as well toss a new sensor in there while I'm at it.

I remember paying $12 and spending 3 minutes changing the t-stat on my 87 fiero. Those were the days...
 
  #14  
Old 09-07-2012 | 10:12 AM
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Ok so I just left the dealer. Bought the housing assembly and the sensor. I know the assembly comes with it but if I only need the sensor I'm going to return the assembly. Should I...

A: reset cel and hope it doesn't come back
B: try just the sensor
C: suck it up and just do the whole housing

After the problem is solved will the cel go away on its own or will it have to be reset anyways?
 
  #15  
Old 09-07-2012 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugler
Ok so I just left the dealer. Bought the housing assembly and the sensor. I know the assembly comes with it but if I only need the sensor I'm going to return the assembly. Should I...

A: reset cel and hope it doesn't come back
B: try just the sensor
C: suck it up and just do the whole housing

After the problem is solved will the cel go away on its own or will it have to be reset anyways?
Check the connections first now that you have a new part in hand, you know where to look. Also look for damaged wiring, especially in the area you were in at time of oil change.
I'd recommend replacing the whole thing as mine failed at 75000 miles due to a small crack in the plastic housing rather than a sensor fault. The plastic had degraded over time. There's also a plastic tube that is connected to the housing and runs under the intake manifold (also plastic) to the back of the water pump. Check that tube for damage at the connector end when you have the housing off.
Another reason to replace the complete assembly is that the actual thermostat is made into the housing. The code may be set due to improper mechanical opening of thermostat, rather than sensor fault.
Fault codes may eventually clear themselves, but if your due for inspection, clearing code would be quicker.
 
  #16  
Old 09-07-2012 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugler
After the problem is solved will the cel go away on its own or will it have to be reset anyways?
Originally Posted by Blind Dog Daddy
Fault codes may eventually clear themselves...
Even when the problem the fixed, the fault codes still is present in the ECU's memory.
You will have to use a scanner to access and remove the fault codes that are stored.
If you don't use a scanner to remove codes, the CEL may turn off, but the code is still present in memory.

- Erik
 
  #17  
Old 09-07-2012 | 11:14 AM
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I found a few DIYs that I wasn't too confident in but I think I can figure it out. How long should this job take me? Will I need any specialty tools? A lift? Any way to cool the engine quickly after driving it so I can work on it without burning by hands off?

I've decided I'll be doing the whole housing. That way, it's the housing, the thermostat and the sensor all in one shot. It'll fail eventually.
 
  #18  
Old 09-07-2012 | 01:37 PM
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Bought a cheapo scan tool at Sears for like $50. Reset the codes and cel but I haven't driven it yet. I'll probably still do the t-stat housing anyways but since it'll be a few days till I can get to it, I figured I'd see if the light came back on during that time. That and it never hurts to have a code reader!
 
  #19  
Old 09-07-2012 | 01:54 PM
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$50 reader ... smart move ...

cool the engine fast? I pop the bonnet and direct a fan at it ... are you working in a garage I hope?

No special tools but if you don't have a set of TORX in assorted sizes you may as well pick up a set cuz MINI is loaded with TORX fasteners ... from small stuff all the way up to T-45 and T-50 . . . and if I were doing it, I'd be replacing any hose clamp I encountered with a screw type for future ease . . (some already are, but far from all)

Too many folks have done this DIY to make me think a lift would be needed. 'course you will want to have coolant on hand and review the DIY for system bleeding hints.
 
  #20  
Old 09-07-2012 | 02:02 PM
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Thank you for that. Yeah, I have access to the auto hobby shop on my local AF base. While I was getting the reader, I got a pair of hose clamp pliers. Trying to think ahead!

I do have all the Torx bits necessary.

Do I HAVE to use that overpriced MINI coolant? I'm sure they didn't patent a special formula...

I assumed a lift would make life easier. Probably for draining the coolant. I am doing transmission fluid on my GF's Focus so I'll have that lift available to me anyway so I may as well use it!

Originally Posted by Capt_bj
$50 reader ... smart move ...
Was that sarcasm?
 
  #21  
Old 09-07-2012 | 02:21 PM
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sarcasm? no - most folks balk at buying a tool that will come in handy down the road. If it works at $50 I say great deal - which one did you buy? Heck, when I saw how much welding I was gonna need on my 79 I decided it was cheaper to take lessons and buy a MIG welder! but that cost a wee bit over $50 . . .

I've topped off my coolant with good ol Prestone everytime it needed it & nothing has blown up.

Access to the AF hobby shop - well then you got it licked. But why didn't you go there for the code? My local post shop - Patrick AFB - lists free code read and reset on their list of services! Sadly I've seen bases loose these shops for lack of use. Patrick here just closed their paint booth for that reason. I could rent their down draft paint booth for $50/day and DIY spray .... gonna miss that. They even sold the complete line of Sherwin Williams automotive paint right there - had the complete computer mixing system. But a lift for a few bucks a day, with roving mechanics for that lil bit of advice when you need it. GREAT RESOURCE.

Captain USCG retired sends...
 
  #22  
Old 09-07-2012 | 02:28 PM
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Ah, just making sure. I got this one. It only makes sense. Every car uses them and it was cheap. Easy to use. No, it doesn't give loads of info but it will give the code, delete it and let you reset the cel. Basic functionality.

I didn't go to base cause it's not quite as convenient as I'd like it to be. Gotta go through DC for it and that's an experience I try to avoid at all costs. Oh, and I just found out my roommate has one of those super expensive fancy scan tools. Oh well, I won't live with him forever I suppose.

Bolling AFB is already talking about shutting down the hobby shop. Still going strong for now. The mechanics know me on a first name basis and they are always very helpful. It always makes life easier knowing I won't screw it up too bad cause I have them to give me advice.

Anyways, going to the dealer tomorrow to return the sensor. Probably Tuesday for the replacement. This should be interesting.


Corporal, USMC '06-'10
 
  #23  
Old 09-07-2012 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugler
Ah, just making sure. I got this one. It only makes sense. Every car uses them and it was cheap. Easy to use. No, it doesn't give loads of info but it will give the code, delete it and let you reset the cel. Basic functionality.

I didn't go to base cause it's not quite as convenient as I'd like it to be. Gotta go through DC for it and that's an experience I try to avoid at all costs. Oh, and I just found out my roommate has one of those super expensive fancy scan tools. Oh well, I won't live with him forever I suppose.

Bolling AFB is already talking about shutting down the hobby shop. Still going strong for now. The mechanics know me on a first name basis and they are always very helpful. It always makes life easier knowing I won't screw it up too bad cause I have them to give me advice.

Anyways, going to the dealer tomorrow to return the sensor. Probably Tuesday for the replacement. This should be interesting.


Corporal, USMC '06-'10
"Now $42.49 Savings applied in cart" Sears ripped you off
 
  #24  
Old 09-07-2012 | 03:05 PM
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I took a printout of that to the store. They matched it!
 
  #25  
Old 09-07-2012 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugler
I took a printout of that to the store. They matched it!
NIIICE I was just being a **** but way to go!
 


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