New Clutch for 05 MCS + ??
#1
#3
+1, also thought I read somewhere about a service bulletin for that PS pump...
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#4
Thanks.
My independent garage will inspect the PS pump/fan while changing the clutch. Afterwards I will take it to MINI for the recall.
While the subframe is off and front end removed I will inspect and consider new bushings, rotors, brakes and fluid with braided hoses, coolant overflow tank, supercharger/ pump service, IC clean, belt, timing belt tensioner, oil pan gasket.
My independent garage will inspect the PS pump/fan while changing the clutch. Afterwards I will take it to MINI for the recall.
While the subframe is off and front end removed I will inspect and consider new bushings, rotors, brakes and fluid with braided hoses, coolant overflow tank, supercharger/ pump service, IC clean, belt, timing belt tensioner, oil pan gasket.
#5
Not sure of your mileage but the a arm bushings are easiest to do with the sub frame already dropped...do it. The bushings fail around 40k...get urethane ones and never worry about it again....ever.
Not a lot else to look at. The power steering pump won't show any visible signs of failure..it fails because of the dust build up inside that in the end reduces the ability to dissipate heat and fries the electronics. Brushes and other items inside also get worn down.
There is no reason to inspect it anyhow because by law mini Canada is required to just replace it...even if it is working and replace it with an upgraded part.
Not a lot else to look at. The power steering pump won't show any visible signs of failure..it fails because of the dust build up inside that in the end reduces the ability to dissipate heat and fries the electronics. Brushes and other items inside also get worn down.
There is no reason to inspect it anyhow because by law mini Canada is required to just replace it...even if it is working and replace it with an upgraded part.
#6
Actually it's just an extended warranty...
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/...eng&rn=2012029
However...my first statement on "inspection" still applies...even the one that I just pulled out of my car looks no different than the one I just put in. Visually there were no EXTERNAL signs of failure.
Not to suggest you be disingenuous but most people report intermittent failure of the pump before it finally goes 1-6 months later..and when it goes..it's sudden...and uncomfortable and dangerous.
So...even when you bring it in...it could be working perfectly fine on that particular day.
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/...eng&rn=2012029
However...my first statement on "inspection" still applies...even the one that I just pulled out of my car looks no different than the one I just put in. Visually there were no EXTERNAL signs of failure.
Not to suggest you be disingenuous but most people report intermittent failure of the pump before it finally goes 1-6 months later..and when it goes..it's sudden...and uncomfortable and dangerous.
So...even when you bring it in...it could be working perfectly fine on that particular day.
#7
Thanks,
Vehicle has been in the shop the past three days and work is almost complete. Mechanic says the fan is drawing a lot of power and could evntually blow a module or something so I will visit MINI Canada.
When replacing or in my case converting the clutch it opens up a lot of areas worth investigating. I opted to have the supercharger removed, inspected and re-filled. Also replaced the waterpump ( I will keep the used one ) , thermostat + housing, coolant tank needed replacing, changed the serpentine belt.
We had a close look at the oil pan and will be changing the gasket ... already done twice by dealer ...not going there again... ( will try aftermarket part this time) There are some fracture like cracks in the pan but it could be from the casting process.
Anyone ever hear of a lot of oil pans being replaced ?
Vehicle has been in the shop the past three days and work is almost complete. Mechanic says the fan is drawing a lot of power and could evntually blow a module or something so I will visit MINI Canada.
When replacing or in my case converting the clutch it opens up a lot of areas worth investigating. I opted to have the supercharger removed, inspected and re-filled. Also replaced the waterpump ( I will keep the used one ) , thermostat + housing, coolant tank needed replacing, changed the serpentine belt.
We had a close look at the oil pan and will be changing the gasket ... already done twice by dealer ...not going there again... ( will try aftermarket part this time) There are some fracture like cracks in the pan but it could be from the casting process.
Anyone ever hear of a lot of oil pans being replaced ?
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#8
Never seen a pan fail- they look like terribly casted from the factory.
At time of clutch: replace control arm bushings with the poly replacement, re-seal power steering lines with worm-drive clamps (leak over time).
Replace input shaft guide sleeve (throwout bearing rides on this and wears it out).
Replace crankshaft rear main seal (often seep and can lead to clutch failure).
Its also easier to access oil pan/gasket when doing the clutch. Check the lower engine mount- as it often cracks.
The upper hydraulic engine mount often fails- and spews black goo on the frame rail.
Check the upper strut towers for "mushrooming" (google this phenomena as its very common).
The o-rings on the oil cooler seep and are easy to get to when the subframe is down- cheap parts also.
If you have any questions feel free to call us at the shop M-F 8-5pm PST or peruse our website for the items mentioned above.
503 466 6463
At time of clutch: replace control arm bushings with the poly replacement, re-seal power steering lines with worm-drive clamps (leak over time).
Replace input shaft guide sleeve (throwout bearing rides on this and wears it out).
Replace crankshaft rear main seal (often seep and can lead to clutch failure).
Its also easier to access oil pan/gasket when doing the clutch. Check the lower engine mount- as it often cracks.
The upper hydraulic engine mount often fails- and spews black goo on the frame rail.
Check the upper strut towers for "mushrooming" (google this phenomena as its very common).
The o-rings on the oil cooler seep and are easy to get to when the subframe is down- cheap parts also.
If you have any questions feel free to call us at the shop M-F 8-5pm PST or peruse our website for the items mentioned above.
503 466 6463
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