09 JCW: a new mini owners string of problems
#1
09 JCW: a new mini owners string of problems
This is going to be a bit long, any thoughts are much appreciated!
I purchased a used factory '09 JCW with ~63,000 miles on it at the beginning of November. And shortly after began seeing some odd issues. I purchased it from a toyota dealership as it was a trade in, so instead of bringing it straight back and telling them to fix it (under my short warranty and lemon laws in my state) I'm doing my best to collect as much information as possible and as much research as possible. I will raise these issues with them once I have a good idea of whats going on, as it would seem possible that they knew something was "off" and opted not to fix it. I want to have that info and ensure this is resolved the right way, and if possible by a mini tech who knows the car.
I have a scanguage II that i've been using to read the codes, it only lists the code, so the summaries i've been finding on the web, many on this forum, so thanks to everyone else posting about their codes!
So I will be updating this thread w/ a time line of problems/actions for reference as I try to get everything resolved.
GENERAL SYMPTOMSLog
This is up to date what's going on, I'll update and add to it as i find things in an effort to keep it all in one place for my records, and maybe to help others
Resolution
I purchased a used factory '09 JCW with ~63,000 miles on it at the beginning of November. And shortly after began seeing some odd issues. I purchased it from a toyota dealership as it was a trade in, so instead of bringing it straight back and telling them to fix it (under my short warranty and lemon laws in my state) I'm doing my best to collect as much information as possible and as much research as possible. I will raise these issues with them once I have a good idea of whats going on, as it would seem possible that they knew something was "off" and opted not to fix it. I want to have that info and ensure this is resolved the right way, and if possible by a mini tech who knows the car.
I have a scanguage II that i've been using to read the codes, it only lists the code, so the summaries i've been finding on the web, many on this forum, so thanks to everyone else posting about their codes!
So I will be updating this thread w/ a time line of problems/actions for reference as I try to get everything resolved.
GENERAL SYMPTOMS
- stumbling/idle hunting on Cold start
- Check Engine light
11/10/2012
11/27/2012
11/29/2012
Other unknown codes that have shown up on my scanner as pending, i have no idea if they're related and google doesnt do much for them Symptoms:
Actions: None
car ran great until next log entry no hint of a problem
11/19/2012 car started then staled immediately, started and ran fine the second time, morning cold start ~40 degrees
Codes: NoneActions: None
car ran great until next log entry no hint of a problem
Symptoms:
11/26/2012 twice car started then staled immediately. last time car started and idled very rough while hunting for idle also CEL came on.
Codes:- P0300 - random/multiple cylindar misfire
- P0301 - cylindar 1 misfire
- P0304 - cylindar 4 misfire
- spoke with mini tech via phone. he suggested it might need a walnut blast to the tune of $600 but suggested I add some techron and bring it in the following week
- Added techron
- did two seafoam treatments, 3 days appart
- cleared the codes
Symptons:
Seen during Limp Mode
Actions: none - yet car started then staled immediately. last time car started and idled very rough while hunting for idle also CEL came on AND reduced power light came on on tach, continued to idle rough. Turned car off, then back on all lights turned off and car ran perfectly
Codes:Seen during Limp Mode
- P0300 - random/multiple cylindar misfire
- P0303 - cylindar 3 misfire
- P0054 - google suggests related to fuel regulator/voltage
- P0001 - Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open
- P074C - HO2S Heater Resistance (I don't know what this means)
11/27/2012
Symptoms:
Actions: none - drove 2 miles to workcar started then staled immediately. last time car started and for a short time idled rough while hunting for idle, found a steady idle in 5-10 seconds then car ran perfectly
New "pending" codes- P0017 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation
11/29/2012
Symptoms:
Actions: Turned it off, turned it back on limped to work the rest of the way to work. turned it off/on once i got there and the light went awaycar started right up. Half way to work car stumbled a bit and went into limp mode.
New (and only) "pending" code- P3091 - High Pressure Fuel pump value below minimum
- B36B6
- C24B5
- U1A66
- U1B52
- U3600
This is up to date what's going on, I'll update and add to it as i find things in an effort to keep it all in one place for my records, and maybe to help others
Resolution
Dealer replaced the High Pressure Fuel Pump under warranty. car has been starting/running as expected
Last edited by redparchel; 12-04-2012 at 08:26 AM. Reason: added to log
#3
thanks Day, I was hoping that it would be the HPFP since it should fall under mini's 120k/10year warranty so that I didnt need to get overly involved with the toyota dealership I bought it from. But if it is in need of a Walnut blast the trick will be getting the toyota dealership to cover it!
I figured the seafoam would just be a stepping stone.
Bright side, it will need the walnut blast eventually this way maybe I wont be on the hook for picking up the check.
I figured the seafoam would just be a stepping stone.
Bright side, it will need the walnut blast eventually this way maybe I wont be on the hook for picking up the check.
#5
Red, you may be correct on the walnut blast diagnosis but I would def hold their toes to the fire over verifying that the HPFP is not part or all of this particular issue. That could make the engine go lean under boost, not a pleasant thing to watch. If you do get it cleaned, your next investment should immediately be an OCC system.
#6
Clubman, I've seen a lot of threads on OCC systems, some where people are pulling a LOT of "gunk" on a very regular basis.
any personal experience there?
any thoughts on BSH's idea of blocking one side of the PCV system to make the "catch can work better"?
I've also seen it suggested to run a water/meth set up to help keep carbon at bay, while this sounds extreme (costs vs advantages), any merit to the claim?
any personal experience there?
any thoughts on BSH's idea of blocking one side of the PCV system to make the "catch can work better"?
I've also seen it suggested to run a water/meth set up to help keep carbon at bay, while this sounds extreme (costs vs advantages), any merit to the claim?
#7
New pending code today, "P0017 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation" (added to first post)
I realize pending codes could be things the car saw once and could likely clear on its own soon, and really may just be a victim of the root cause, but being in the IT field ALL error messages tell a story, so I'm keeping track of everything until this is resolved.
I'll likely swing by the dealership after work and discuss diagnosis options, I'd rather not pay for a bunch of "this should fix the problem" without properly identifying it first
I realize pending codes could be things the car saw once and could likely clear on its own soon, and really may just be a victim of the root cause, but being in the IT field ALL error messages tell a story, so I'm keeping track of everything until this is resolved.
I'll likely swing by the dealership after work and discuss diagnosis options, I'd rather not pay for a bunch of "this should fix the problem" without properly identifying it first
Last edited by redparchel; 11-27-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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#8
I've been removing a noticeable amount from my OCC on my 2009 R55 JCW.
* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ans-occ-2.html
That's how it suppose to work.
If you don't block off / plug the passenger side PCV port, under vacuum, the oil vapor is still pulled into the intake system.
Yes, it does work as it 'steam cleans' and solvent rinses down the backside of the intake valves.
Because of direct injection (DI) there's zero fuel washdown on the back of the intake valves.
Now, the kicker of reducing carbon build-up without water/meth is to properly run the engine to proper running temp.
Short trips where the engine fails to reach it's normal operating temp significantly increases build-up as heat of the engine is how the oil vapor is burned off.
That's correlating to a physical timing issue, where the camshafts and crankshaft rotation position are not in sync.
The root cause? A stretched or loose timing chain assembly which is one of the maintenance concerns on the N14 engine.
Have that checked out IMMEDIATELY and verify the chain and timing are in specification.
- Erik
* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ans-occ-2.html
If you don't block off / plug the passenger side PCV port, under vacuum, the oil vapor is still pulled into the intake system.
Because of direct injection (DI) there's zero fuel washdown on the back of the intake valves.
Now, the kicker of reducing carbon build-up without water/meth is to properly run the engine to proper running temp.
Short trips where the engine fails to reach it's normal operating temp significantly increases build-up as heat of the engine is how the oil vapor is burned off.
The root cause? A stretched or loose timing chain assembly which is one of the maintenance concerns on the N14 engine.
Have that checked out IMMEDIATELY and verify the chain and timing are in specification.
- Erik
#9
Erik - thanks for all the good info!
A few things really stood out:
my daily commute is less than 2 miles, so probably a safe guess carbon build up is likely to be an on going issue for me, possibly more so than others
guess on what this costs nowadays? WMW has just the parts listed for ~$400
A few things really stood out:
Originally Posted by bluefox280
Now, the kicker of reducing carbon build-up without water/meth is to properly run the engine to proper running temp.
Short trips where the engine fails to reach it's normal operating temp significantly increases build-up as heat of the engine is how the oil vapor is burned off.
Short trips where the engine fails to reach it's normal operating temp significantly increases build-up as heat of the engine is how the oil vapor is burned off.
Originally Posted by bluefox280
Have that checked out IMMEDIATELY and verify the chain and timing are in specification.
#10
guess on what this costs nowadays? WMW has just the parts listed for ~$400
Some have seen installed prices over the $1K mark...
- Erik
#11
Swung by my dealership on the way home from work. chatted with a tech, my mini goes in monday to for a full diagnosis. I insisted they look at the HPFP, carbon build up, and the timing chain.
I'll be sure to reiterate all of this when I drop her off on monday morning. but so far I've been very happy with the customer service the tech seemed very frank and straight with me, two things I appreciate.
the issues i described to them they were thinking HPFP, but they're going to give a good look to see if it needs a walnut blast too. also while its in they're gunna do my annual/10k service (which for me i'm thinking should include plugs, oil, and MAYBE brakes - thankful whom ever owned her before me bought the extended maintenance)
I'll be sure to update with what they find
Erik, Clubman, Day - thanks for the input certainly helped when walking into the dealership this afternoon!
anyone got any idea's on how to approach the "other" dealership? I'm thinking i'll just call them when i bring it in monday. the other dealearship is almost an hour away and the mini dealership is 2 miles from my house (nevermind the fact that this is something i think is much better handled by a mini tech than a toyota mechanic)
I'll be sure to reiterate all of this when I drop her off on monday morning. but so far I've been very happy with the customer service the tech seemed very frank and straight with me, two things I appreciate.
the issues i described to them they were thinking HPFP, but they're going to give a good look to see if it needs a walnut blast too. also while its in they're gunna do my annual/10k service (which for me i'm thinking should include plugs, oil, and MAYBE brakes - thankful whom ever owned her before me bought the extended maintenance)
I'll be sure to update with what they find
Erik, Clubman, Day - thanks for the input certainly helped when walking into the dealership this afternoon!
anyone got any idea's on how to approach the "other" dealership? I'm thinking i'll just call them when i bring it in monday. the other dealearship is almost an hour away and the mini dealership is 2 miles from my house (nevermind the fact that this is something i think is much better handled by a mini tech than a toyota mechanic)
#12
Was there certification of completed maintenance before the transaction was complete?
Is there a 30-day satisfaction guarantee? Or was it an "as-is" type of sale?
Since the car has already rolled off their lot for a good part of a month, I highly doubt (again, unless there's verbiage of such) their cover any cost of maintenance.
That should have been negotiated during the time of purchase.
But, you're more than welcome to give it a shot... worst thing they'll do is say "no".
- Erik
#13
#14
As would I, Mini will be looking at her on Monday.
Today gave me one more nudge to lean towards the HPFP side of things as a cause of my cold start issue.
Car started up just fine this morning (actually it started and drove great last night on a trip out to the burbs) half way to work this morning, in the middle of a busy intersection, the car went into limp mode, no CEL just the reduced power icon on the tach. That stuff is scary! there is NO power. Once I got to my destination, about 1/4 mile from where limp mode kicked in I checked for pending codes:
P3091 High Pressure Fuel pump value below minimum
So obviously I'm not a mechanic, but it's one more thing to add to the "HPFP" column
Today gave me one more nudge to lean towards the HPFP side of things as a cause of my cold start issue.
Car started up just fine this morning (actually it started and drove great last night on a trip out to the burbs) half way to work this morning, in the middle of a busy intersection, the car went into limp mode, no CEL just the reduced power icon on the tach. That stuff is scary! there is NO power. Once I got to my destination, about 1/4 mile from where limp mode kicked in I checked for pending codes:
P3091 High Pressure Fuel pump value below minimum
So obviously I'm not a mechanic, but it's one more thing to add to the "HPFP" column
#15
new High Pressure Fuel Pump, entirely under warranty.
The tech checked through the car, HPFP, carbon build up, timing chain. And determined that it was infact the HPFP causing the cold start issue i was having.
However, they did break my JCW strut brace but they're replacing it for me on Friday, as well as doing my annual service, and giving me a loaner for the day
assuming she starts tomorrow morning, all in all it was a great experience at my Mini dealership
thanks to all for your insight and information, certainly made it easier to walk in there with a good idea of what could be going on.
The tech checked through the car, HPFP, carbon build up, timing chain. And determined that it was infact the HPFP causing the cold start issue i was having.
However, they did break my JCW strut brace but they're replacing it for me on Friday, as well as doing my annual service, and giving me a loaner for the day
assuming she starts tomorrow morning, all in all it was a great experience at my Mini dealership
thanks to all for your insight and information, certainly made it easier to walk in there with a good idea of what could be going on.
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