Please, for the love of God help.
#1
Please, for the love of God help.
I am truly at my wits end. I've been having a problem with the passenger side door of my '04 Mini Cooper. Now, I know what you're thinking: the actuator. The problem is, I've been through all the different threads about that problem and that isn't the issue I'm having. Here's what's happened. For about a year, I've had to keep changing the F37 fuse because one or both of the doors weren't opening. After changing the fuse, they worked again. This time, to no avail. I was in a parking lot and my (driver's side) door suddenly wouldn't open, so I climbed out the other side, picked up some fuses and changed them. My driver's side door worked again. When I picked up my wife later that day, her door wouldn't open. So, I checked the fuse when I got home and the fuse had popped, again. I changed it, but the next morning her door wouldn't open. So, I changed the fuse, turned on the car and the door unlocked and would open. I turned off the car and locked it manually, unlocked it and checked the fuse again. It had again popped. To the best of my knowledge, all I can think is that a wire has shorted, but I have no idea how to fix it or maybe I'm wrong and it's something else. If anyone can help, I would really appreciate it. I don't have the cash to take it to the shop, so I have to do all the repairs myself, for better or worse.
#2
#4
Sounds like its going to be a pain to sort out. It could be wiring or an actuator that is shorting, since all the door & boot lock when you start driving it would be any one of those. Do you have any aftermarket stuff that is installed in the car? may a screw has been put in somewhere that is causing a short when you hit a bump?
I guess with the car turned on I would locking and unlocking the doors and see if this shorts the fuse, this will give you an idea if its the actuators. If this doesn't resolve it then it sounds like you will need to trace the wiring.
I guess with the car turned on I would locking and unlocking the doors and see if this shorts the fuse, this will give you an idea if its the actuators. If this doesn't resolve it then it sounds like you will need to trace the wiring.
#5
When I mess with the toggle, it doesn't do anything. If I replace the fuse, it unlocks and locks and I can open the door, but when I turn the car off and lock it, the fuse blows. I really don't think it's the actuator just because the door will open with a fresh fuse.
As for aftermarket stuff, there's nothing that I'm aware of. A few years ago, I had to have a new amp put in, but I took it to the dealership for that and the amp was Mini brand.
Does anyone have any idea which wire this could be or where to start looking? I don't have a lot of experience with this.
As for aftermarket stuff, there's nothing that I'm aware of. A few years ago, I had to have a new amp put in, but I took it to the dealership for that and the amp was Mini brand.
Does anyone have any idea which wire this could be or where to start looking? I don't have a lot of experience with this.
#7
Trending Topics
#10
#12
Mark, These are suggestions of what I would do however, you may not want to spend this much time.
I may suggest to remove the passenger door cover and inspect all the electricial wiring and motors and door lock parts . It may be that water may have entered the works and may have shorted something. If nothing is looks wrong, no shorted wires or burning smell from any of the lock or motor parts go to the next suggestion.
I would disconnect everything in the passenger door and tape off the wire ends so they don't short anything. Now start up the car and drive it and lock and unlock the drivers door and raise and lower the drivers window while you are driving; see if you can get it to pop a fuse. If not, park the car and turn it off and repeat the locking and unlocking and raise and lower the drivers window. Turn off the car. Wait and repeat again. Follow the routine that seems to make the fuse pop.
If its not poping the fuse, I would say the problem is within the lock or the window motor in the passenger door.
If during these above tests the fuse did pop, do the reverse and follow the same tests with the drivers door. It gets used more use than the passenger door so it may be the problem.
Put the Passenger door back together correctly and remove all the connections on the drivers door. Do the same inspections and tests to see if you can get a result of a poped fuse.
If the fuse does not pop, at least you know you have inspected everything and see no shorted wires.
The only other source may be the toggle switch on the dash.
I sure hope the suggested tests result in you finding the problem.
I may suggest to remove the passenger door cover and inspect all the electricial wiring and motors and door lock parts . It may be that water may have entered the works and may have shorted something. If nothing is looks wrong, no shorted wires or burning smell from any of the lock or motor parts go to the next suggestion.
I would disconnect everything in the passenger door and tape off the wire ends so they don't short anything. Now start up the car and drive it and lock and unlock the drivers door and raise and lower the drivers window while you are driving; see if you can get it to pop a fuse. If not, park the car and turn it off and repeat the locking and unlocking and raise and lower the drivers window. Turn off the car. Wait and repeat again. Follow the routine that seems to make the fuse pop.
If its not poping the fuse, I would say the problem is within the lock or the window motor in the passenger door.
If during these above tests the fuse did pop, do the reverse and follow the same tests with the drivers door. It gets used more use than the passenger door so it may be the problem.
Put the Passenger door back together correctly and remove all the connections on the drivers door. Do the same inspections and tests to see if you can get a result of a poped fuse.
If the fuse does not pop, at least you know you have inspected everything and see no shorted wires.
The only other source may be the toggle switch on the dash.
I sure hope the suggested tests result in you finding the problem.
#13
I wish you luck. This could be a pain to track down. Sounds like the only thing you do know is that the fuse is getting blown and the doors are affected. So is it a short or excess load on the line?
I am not sure if the Bentley Manual will have the detail you need, but it sounds like you need to start tracing from the fuse out and see if that leads anywhere.
I hate working with electrical, but I would think that a volt/ohm meter would help tell if something is wrong.
I am not sure if the Bentley Manual will have the detail you need, but it sounds like you need to start tracing from the fuse out and see if that leads anywhere.
I hate working with electrical, but I would think that a volt/ohm meter would help tell if something is wrong.
#14
Mark, If you do narrow it down to one side or the other, then new parts will have to be installed as you have no way to test the old ones. I would start with the door lock actuator first.
Also if you do spend the time contact, Way Motor Works to see if he has any input to the matter and he may have the new parts you need also.
Also if you do spend the time contact, Way Motor Works to see if he has any input to the matter and he may have the new parts you need also.
#15
@MiniKar Thanks for the advice. I'm going to be replacing the strut mounts next week, so I'll start trouble shooting with what you've given me then. With school and work, I haven't had a ton of time to really do anything more that what I have already. When I finish up, I'll post how it went here. Thanks again.
@05r50 Yeah, that's pretty much all I know lol. I've been looking around where I live and I can't seem to find a Bentley manual. I looked online, but they get pretty expensive.
@05r50 Yeah, that's pretty much all I know lol. I've been looking around where I live and I can't seem to find a Bentley manual. I looked online, but they get pretty expensive.
#16
While your looking inspect the wires and the rubber loom where it goes into the doors and comes out of the door sill. Not with a mini but I have had other cars that have shorted out in those locations, usually they have been apart for some reason, but it's worth looking at.
And if you have a short in the wiring like that you could still blow the fuse with the actuator and window motor unplugged.
And if you have a short in the wiring like that you could still blow the fuse with the actuator and window motor unplugged.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
embiggenedmini
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
11
10-15-2015 12:36 PM
MasterShaftner
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
3
09-04-2015 03:52 PM