When I let off the gas my car starts vibrating, and makes some noise which sounds like its coming from the drivers side front. All brakes and rotors are new, just replaced an engine mount on top on the passenger side cause it was all cracked up causing some bucking. I was hoping that would fix the vibrations too, but didn't.

I'm not sure where to start. The engine mount on the drivers side looks fine, mount underneath i'm not sure about, but I think its something else. I will rotate my tires tomorrow if I have time, and see if that helps, but if it doesn't what else could be wrong? If it helps at higher speeds like 40+ it gets worse, but when accelerating its nice and smooth till you let off the gas. Then when I get back to lower speeds it vibrates when pressing the gas, but not as bad.

 

You should put your Mini up on a hoist and check for loose or worn cv joints and inspect the anti-rotation bracket that is attached to the rear of the engine oil pan.

 

How can I tell if the cv joint is loose or worn? Also what does the anti rotation bracket look like? Is it ok to drive my car like it is?

 

I saw lots of grease from the inner cv joint. I was going to just replace the boot, but just bought the whole cv joint. I saw I needed special tools to replace the boot. I had a boot replaced on the passenger side last year, garage said it will be $100, they told me they made a mistake, bought the wrong boot, made me wait like 4-5 more days, and then charged me $250.00. Never ever going to a mechanic for crappy service like that. Should've gave me a discount, but instead had to be greedy, and it was near christmas time too.

 

Never have just the boot replaced, by the time all the work has been done to replace it, you could of had a new one put in and be on your way. Also, I don't recommend doing it since there is a tear in the boot, having all the grease come out, and dirt/water/salt go in, causing internal damage, plus the grease, which helps lubricate, and dissipate heat, is now out of it, it's heating up the ***** and sockets in there, grinding them out of spec.

Always replace the whole CV axles. replacing the boot was cool in 1980's, when the U.S. was still starting to understand what C.V. axles were, but now they have to be so precise, for not only proper function, but to reduce noise and vibration, that attempting any "quick fix" by just replacing the boot is not worth the time of day anymore.

Inspect all the bolts on the caliper and caliper mounting hardware, make sure who ever replaced it used the proper torque specs, and not the until bolt stops when I'm turning it. Also check your intake hoses, and if you can see/get to it, the throttle body, it may be fluttering by not allowing it to close properly.

 

I realize that now. I bought a new cv axle for the drivers side cause the passenger side is fine. Drivers side has the boot torn, and grease all over. The caliper bolts, and everything I checked suspecting that also.

Is it ok to drive the car for 1 week while I wait for the new axle? Its about 7 miles total a day I drive to and from work so about 50 miles, but probably going to be more if I do some shopping which I need to do some shopping. Just wondering if I should borrow or possible rent a car? I heard some cars the wheel will fall off, and don't want that happening. When driving to and from work I drove very slowly today incase that would happen.

 

Lol, I normally don't recommend driving a vehicle when there is a problem with the drive train, But unless you fell its a danger with you steering or stopping, you should be okay, but you may damage other parts like the hub assembly. As far as the CV axle, they rarely fall out due to the tight placement, however, even if it was to fall out, worst thing that could happen is you can't move since you lost your one power wheel. You still have tie rods that steer and control arms holding suspension.

 

I was duct taping the boot today for a temp fix, and took the tire off cause it was in my way. The 4 lug nuts on the tires where almost hand loosen. At first I thought something was wrong cause car was in the air, lowered it, and all the bolts still turned way to easily. Not good, but glad I duct taped the boot till my new cv axle comes in next week. The lug nuts must have shook loose from the cv joint.

 

Was there recent work done on that side?

 

Well last week I removed the tire to check the rotor, pads, and caliper, but I torqued those lug nuts like crazy. And Jumped on the dang wrench with all my weight to make sure the lug nuts where tightened. The wrench didn't budge, and did the same thing tonight before going on the highway. The car is fine now. Will be doing the axle ASAP though.

 

A torque wrench is everybody's friend when dealing with rims. I've been torquing lug nuts on every vehicle I disassemble, and they can be had for cheap, especially when you consider you may damage the holes for the lug bolts, preventing them from properly torquing, and not allow for loosening situations, or worse. If you have a local Harbor Freight, pick up a 1/2 torque wrench, and a 17mm impact socket, it might run you $30 if you catch the right sale going on.

Also, don't try to tighten lug bolts when there is weigh from the car on them. Hand tighten them as best as you can when the entire tire is off the ground, then lower the car just enough for the tire to grab the ground to prevent it from spinning, and properly torque from there, check again after 50 miles, and you should be set from there.

 

I just replace the motor mount on my car and for some reason it is also shaking now mainly when I let off the gas my tires have been balanced and rotated

 

Ive got a ‘14 Nissan Versa with the same issue and can’t seem to figure it out.