Stock Vband is Crap!
#1
Stock Vband is Crap!
I am tired of this crappy Vband that came with the car. I tighten, it stops.....then a few days later it leaks again. Looked under the front of the car and sure enough, the DP is blackish due to the exhaust leak.
Does anyone have a link to a aftermarket replacement Vband that can actually serve its purpose? Because the stock one isn't cutting it.
Would appreciate the help, thanks.
Does anyone have a link to a aftermarket replacement Vband that can actually serve its purpose? Because the stock one isn't cutting it.
Would appreciate the help, thanks.
#3
I am tired of this crappy Vband that came with the car. I tighten, it stops.....then a few days later it leaks again. Looked under the front of the car and sure enough, the DP is blackish due to the exhaust leak.
Does anyone have a link to a aftermarket replacement Vband that can actually serve its purpose? Because the stock one isn't cutting it.
Would appreciate the help, thanks.
Does anyone have a link to a aftermarket replacement Vband that can actually serve its purpose? Because the stock one isn't cutting it.
Would appreciate the help, thanks.
i installed my system in may 2012 and it has not come loose yet, i used a 1/2" rachet followed by a 1/2" breaker bar and tightened it has tight as it would go
scott
#4
when i replaced my stock exhaust with a milltek downpipe back system, the directions said to use a 1/2" drive rachet to tighten the vband clamp, that a 3/8" or smaller would not get it tight enough
i installed my system in may 2012 and it has not come loose yet, i used a 1/2" rachet followed by a 1/2" breaker bar and tightened it has tight as it would go
scott
Yes that little gasket is still there, I might order a new one and see if that helps, thanks for that part number, will make the search that much easier.
#5
i had my eyes closed as i tightened the vband clamp with the 1/2" drive breaker bar ... it creaked and groaned but did not break and has not loosened
btw, i needed to use the 1/2" drive breaker bar to get mine loose to remove the stock exhaust ... could not loosen with the 3/8" drive breaker bar
at such high torque, i recommend a 6 point socket
scott
#7
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#8
To safety wire a nut, it would have to be a castle nut.....an aviation mechanic might have one, but they tend to be kinda $$ since they are FAA/PMA approved parts.....you might ne able to bring in the nut to a true-value, etc that has the nutrack to go through...they might have a castle nut....nut it it about MATAING TQ, not setting the TQ INITALLY...that appears to be the op's issue.
#9
To safety wire a nut, it would have to be a castle nut.....an aviation mechanic might have one, but they tend to be kinda $$ since they are FAA/PMA approved parts.....you might ne able to bring in the nut to a true-value, etc that has the nutrack to go through...they might have a castle nut....nut it it about MATAING TQ, not setting the TQ INITALLY...that appears to be the op's issue.
the OP did not use a 1/2" drive tool to tighten, used smaller size so did not achieve initially enough torque ... there was a note on my install instructions to use 1/2" drive to tighten the vband clamp
btw, a castle nut is used with cotter pins and require a hole drilled thru the threaded bolt
to use safty wire requires a hole drilled across a corner of the nut (but not thru the thread) and something nearby to run the safty wire to
scott
#10
#12
My understanding of fasteners on aircraft is that they are all safetied if they are in a location that is flight critical.
So I would expect a turbo outlet would be a lock nut of some sort (engine would lose MUCH power if it came off) - likely not a castle nut or a drilled hex nut, but a high temp safety nut - the top of the threaded portion of the nut will be oval and will stretch around the stud, providing the locking...
I admit I don't know if the piston pounders are as strict about safetying EVERYTHING as the heavy turbines, but I thought the rules were generally the same...
Cars are different in many respects, including the thread sizes and tolerances - planes are usually imperial and cars metric... If you can find an aviation high temp lock nut that will fit, let us know how it works out - and let us know the "AN" number! Many suppliers near your local airport will help, and as stated before, the nuts WILL be expensive - even compared to BMW prices!
E
So I would expect a turbo outlet would be a lock nut of some sort (engine would lose MUCH power if it came off) - likely not a castle nut or a drilled hex nut, but a high temp safety nut - the top of the threaded portion of the nut will be oval and will stretch around the stud, providing the locking...
I admit I don't know if the piston pounders are as strict about safetying EVERYTHING as the heavy turbines, but I thought the rules were generally the same...
Cars are different in many respects, including the thread sizes and tolerances - planes are usually imperial and cars metric... If you can find an aviation high temp lock nut that will fit, let us know how it works out - and let us know the "AN" number! Many suppliers near your local airport will help, and as stated before, the nuts WILL be expensive - even compared to BMW prices!
E
#13
My understanding of fasteners on aircraft is that they are all safetied if they are in a location that is flight critical.
So I would expect a turbo outlet would be a lock nut of some sort (engine would lose MUCH power if it came off) - likely not a castle nut or a drilled hex nut, but a high temp safety nut - the top of the threaded portion of the nut will be oval and will stretch around the stud, providing the locking...
I admit I don't know if the piston pounders are as strict about safetying EVERYTHING as the heavy turbines, but I thought the rules were generally the same...
Cars are different in many respects, including the thread sizes and tolerances - planes are usually imperial and cars metric... If you can find an aviation high temp lock nut that will fit, let us know how it works out - and let us know the "AN" number! Many suppliers near your local airport will help, and as stated before, the nuts WILL be expensive - even compared to BMW prices!
E
So I would expect a turbo outlet would be a lock nut of some sort (engine would lose MUCH power if it came off) - likely not a castle nut or a drilled hex nut, but a high temp safety nut - the top of the threaded portion of the nut will be oval and will stretch around the stud, providing the locking...
I admit I don't know if the piston pounders are as strict about safetying EVERYTHING as the heavy turbines, but I thought the rules were generally the same...
Cars are different in many respects, including the thread sizes and tolerances - planes are usually imperial and cars metric... If you can find an aviation high temp lock nut that will fit, let us know how it works out - and let us know the "AN" number! Many suppliers near your local airport will help, and as stated before, the nuts WILL be expensive - even compared to BMW prices!
E
the vband clamps used on turbo installations are mostly not saftied, but are torqued to a specific value
i used a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket to tighten the vband clamp on my cms all4 when i replaced the exhaust
it has not come loose over 6 months so far
scott
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