I went to the store last night, opened/closed the boot fine. Got back out to the car and the boot wouldn't open. Doesn't matter whether I use the keyfob (or backup keyfob) or the latch button on the handle. I can hear the solenoid trying to unlatch, but it's not working.

I assume I'm going to have to take this somewhere to get fixed. Is there any way on the R56 to open the hatch manually? Supposedly the first gen cars had a manual release under the seats, but the second gen cars don't? Is my boot stuck closed until I can take it to the dealer?

To clarify, I've got a 2009 JCW Hardtop.

 

Just like the 1st Gen : **There are some people reporting that some cars around 2008' - 2009+ did not have it. Check there first. **

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...k-release.html



Manually pull it and see if you can get it to unlock.



If the latch is bad, which it sounds like since you can hear the micro button working the mechanical of the the lock, but the lock does not move. We have them right here to replace.

Once you open it you can see whats going on with the lock.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51242754528/ES91986/


Thanks and good luck.

 

I spent 15 mins getting my rear seat out only to confirm there is NO manual release.

Am I SOL? How would the dealer/mechanic open it?

 

If you can get under the rear panel with and reach the lock with a hanger and hook it on the side of the lock eyelet you might be able to unlock it.

Mechanical eyelet on the left hand side.


Number 3 in diagram


I know its a long shot but it might work.

Good luck.

 

I know you looked and I haven't verified in my Mini but my Owner's Manual it shows a handle under the rear seat to unlock the boot...

 

I noticed that my driver's side window dipper doesn't close itself when I close the door. Any chance the two problems are related?

 

It sounds like you you must have a battery problem now. Have you checked your battery to be at full charge? When the battery gets low on voltage weird things happen.

 

I tried the manual window reset (hold window switch for 10-20s after rolling down, then up) and that fixed the window dipping.

Battery reads 14.0V. So it's probably the latch. Bah. How hard is this thing to replace? Haven't found much on the forums about it.

 

That's good you found the link to the reset of the window , I was just going to send you it. On the install of the rear latch , you have to get under the rear panel on part number 3. And try to unlock it by hooking the and pulling the latch eyelet plastic, I believe it triggers it. Then once you get that you can open the trunk and replace the latch part by fully removing part number 3 and installing the new latch part I linked . Bolts out and bolt right in after you unplug the harness.

 

Hm, I got under there but can't seem to get the lock to open. By eyelet, are you talking about the big metal loop on the left? Or the little while plastic things?

EDIT: Hmm, before I get this thing open I should probably make sure I have the new assembly. Order placed!

 

Okay, finally resolved this. It turns out, the eyelet that's used to pop the latch open was what broke. I was able to unscrew the latch and open the door, but the latch was still connected to the door. After fighting it for a bit, I just started ripping it apart with a screwdriver. Eventually the mechanism broke enough to let go of the door. From there, installing the new latch was a piece of cake. My trunk works again!

Thanks ECSTuning for your help.

 

Great news,

The little nylon eyelet that has the tiny square. The other bracket piece that is connected to that is one stamped metal piece, I believe holds the emergency cable, if your car has one.

I am glad you got it fixed . Sounds like the lock was frozen and did not want to part from your trunk lid.

I am glad I could help.