Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

How difficult is it to replace the head?

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Old 03-23-2013, 09:23 AM
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How difficult is it to replace the head?

Hi all,

Well today just kind of sucks...


We are a 2 mini r53/r52 household, and I'm a little stressed at what seems to be an inevitable burnt valve on my wife's 06s with 95k. In the process of harvesting parts for diagnosis, I stripped plug #3 in my car...now I have no running car lol!

I've been fortunate enough(really?) to have the second mini/parts to help diagnose the missing/lumpy idle that begins 45 seconds into starting her motor from cold. Left to idle, the check engine light will start to flash, and I only let it get to that point once.

I have ruled out plugs, coil, wires, map sensor, o2 sensor, bypass valve and i regularly run lucas injector cleaner. No gas leakage from the injector o rings that I can see.

I forgot the obd codes, but they were 'manifold pressure too high' and one body error that makes me wonder if it could be electrical somewhere..

My experience...I have replaced the a/c compressor in my r53, and it works better than ever, and have replaced the engine mounts, shocks, exhaust.. and many smaller things.

I just need a little support in the "you can do it if you need a head" Considering the things I have done, do you think I would be capable? I have never gone that far into a motor. I will get a bentley manual, and I guess I would need special head removal tools?

How long would it take?

Thanks all!

Steve in Fresno
 
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:30 AM
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Update:

I did a compression check, and cylinder one came up with 30ish, then I added oil and it went to 65ish. The others were around 95.

This is with a cheap harpor frieght tool, and the car was not fully warmed up. What I find on is how bad and lumpy the idle will get as the engine is warming, but if I hover the revs at 2k, the engine seems to run smooth.
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:53 PM
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...For what it's worth, try to do a leak down test; you'll know more about where you're losing compression.

I just pulled my head today without any special tools. It's not too difficult in my opinion; all the resources you need are available in either the manual or here.
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:04 PM
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The stripped plug is pretty minor....a threadsert/timesert/helicoil can fix that in place...
For the head...sounds like you might be able to do it from your list...but if time is an issue, might be quicker to let a pro pop it off in a couple of hours and pop a reman head on...i know my mini guy keeps a pair of gen1 mini heads (s and non s) ready to go...(Greasysgarage in mass).
Folks seem split on if it is ok to reuse the stock bolts a second time....and i guess you will get a new headgasket in the process....the real descesion might be to do a full head refurb (all valves) or just a single fix....
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:11 PM
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Well....I fixed the stripped thread on car two with a helicoil...and I got the head off of car 1 in 5 hours. I had a head lined up from the UK with 500 miles... I really hoped I had only a blown gasket or a jacked head... But I found a piston with a melted edge and coolant inside with a blown gasket.

I'm really really bummed.

How much harder is it to put new pistons in? I have time, as we have access to loaned family cars.

My kids have given me the motto "he can fix anything" however this is a new one for me...

The car has a 15% and stock injectors, 95k and I had just run some nos brand octane booster in it since it really made my car run well. maybe a coincidence, maybe it clogged the injectors. But that's neither here nor there.

Do I need to pull the motor out, and how much more work would that be given where i'm at?

Should I get an engine hoist and go for it, or would I be way over my head?


Sad in Fresno Ca....
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:44 PM
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To change a piston, you have to go into the bottom end, remove the wristpin...
I think most folks at this point might consider swapping the motor...
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:53 PM
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I have no problem changing a piston. I mean, I have removed the top, would n the sump be my harder? ... If only one piston is melted (and it's the only one I had low compression on) is it acceptable to replace just that one piston?

Can I use all the hardware from the existing piston?

Zippy, I really appreciate your help. I remember you helped me through an a/c compressor replacement and something else that is not coming to mind.

You my man are what the Mini community is all about...I truly appreciate you always being there with help..

Steve
 
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:31 PM
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From your list of jobs completed you seem like a capable wrench. If time isn't an issue then go for it. Any new tools you need will more than pay for themselves by doing the work yourself.
 
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:51 PM
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Ok guy and girls....'

Drum roll....

I did it!! I actually replaced the pistons, since one did not look too good and gave low compression..

She started up today, but i'm reeeeally upset. I'm getting the same symptons now as before the burned piston. Rough idle. Manifold pressure too high code...

Could a fuel issue just pop up out of nowhere within a few days and cause this? When I give it gas it goes, but it feels labored like i'm climbing a 60% hill. I didn't run her long on the rebuild..

I took the week off work so I have my r53 to harvest parts for diagnosis.

Any Ideas on what to harvest first?

I have not checked the fuel pressure, car has 95k miles and the fuel system has never been touched. I just would think a problem there would cause a problem over night..
 
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