I ran into trouble last evening as I worked my way through this timing chain repair and I need some help before I can continue. I need to know how to bring the motor back in time. Here’s what happened…

I was to the point where I had insert the crank locking pin into the hole that’s supposed to lock the crank in place. I did this just prior to removing the chain tensioner. I proceeded to remove the tensioner and then spent the next several hours hand crafting the special crank holding tool that attaches to the crank to aid in getting the crank bolt out. After thinking about it for a while, I started doubting that the pin was pushed in far enough so I thought I would double check before I attached my cam locking tools and see if the motor turned over by hand. I attached the wrench to the crank bolt and sure enough it turned. This wouldn’t have been so bad except I had already removed the timing chain tensioner. The intake cam jumped time when the lobe passed the roller and the valve spring released its tension. I know, big fail on my part.

The only bright side to this is that I found out the crank locking pin wasn’t inserted correctly before I removed the crank bolt and unknowingly moved the crank to the incorrect position and set myself up for an impending disaster. I originally thought the locking pin fit in between teeth on the flywheel but after reading more about this late last night, it turns out it’s supposed to slide through a specific hole in the flywheel to ensure 90 degrees before TDC. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

The Bentley manual does a poor job of explaining how to adjust camshaft timing. It simply says that if the IN and EX aren’t point up that you should insert the crank locking pin, counterhold the intake cam and loosen the VANOS bolt followed by attaching the cam locking tools. It doesn’t mention how to move the cams back to the proper time in relation to the crank. However, my problem is further complicated by the fact that I don’t currently have my crank locked in 90 degree before TDC and I’m afraid to continue to turn it by hand to find the proper position necessary to insert the tool for fear of getting further out of time and having pistons and valves touch.

I need the IN and EX facing up and the crank locked in 90 degree before TDC by the crank locking pin and I’m back in time. How do I get it there without damage to valves or pistons?

 

The only way to get the cams in the correct position with respect to the crank is if you have the correct BMW special tools that lock the cams in the correct position. If you don't have that you can't do jack ****.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/timing-...7-r58-r60.html

Here is a video of a guy doing the timing in a squeaky clean lab...


I think the etching on the camshaft needs to be facing up. The video shows how the profile on the locking portion of the cam should look before you put the tool in place.

 

Thanks Shane...I have the tools but at the moment, both etching marks aren't facing up so I can't lock them in place. When the exhaust markings are up the intake marks are slightly to the side. How to move the intake cam back to the proper position so the etching is up on both cams is what I'm struggling with. All while not knowing where the crank is positioned. I figure if I can get the crank locked in the right position, I can loosen the VANOS cam bolt and manually move the cam back to where the etching is up and I can place the cam locking tool on it to set it in place. I'm going to have to somehow figure out where the the crank is positioned and if it's close enough to lock it or if I can get it there without the piston and valve touching. Worst case scenario is I'll have to pull the cylinder heads to ensure the crank is where it's supposed to be and adjust the cams once they're back on. I'm hoping their's an easier way that I'm not aware of. Ugh...

 

Remove the spark plugs and put two same length rods on the first two pistons (which is shown in the video with those yellow markers). In 90° both cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 should be at the same height. (Perhaps use the leaf springs of some old wipers?) So you don't have to remove the cylinder head.

Don't use the IN/EX markings as guidance... Use the area of the camshaft where the tools attach. They are fool-proof, meaning you can't install them the wrong way.

PS: The video is a training video from Peugeot and the engine is brand new, so don't worry if your's isn't as clean :p

 

I got to watch the video a little bit ago and I saw what you're referring to with the same length rods at the same height. I hadn't seen this video floating around the web before. Thanks Shane, that was a big help. Once the crank is locked in the proper position, am I correct in thinking I loosen the cam bolt and manually move the cam to the correct position with a wrench to attach the cam locks?

 

Yes. But make sure your in the proper position in terms of locking the crank using the flywheel locking pin as there are "2" positions that are possible. I usually tell people who are doing this job to lock the flywheel/crank first and then inspect position of of cam timing (looking for the stamp markings on cams that indicate what cam is what). Last thing you want to do is set your cam timing, and then have your crank timing 180 off... . If the vehicle drove prior to the service, timing may have been off enough to make the car run like crap, but not enough to know that your in the proper position in terms of crank timing. Once you have the proper position locked for the crank/flywheel simply place the tools on the cams, if the intake cam (usually the culprit) is off enough that you can not get the tool to seat into position, simply place the exhaust portion of the cam tool in place, grab yourself a nice 27mm wrench, loosen both the exhaust and intake cam bolts just slightly to allow the camshaft to move, using the 27mm move the intake cam into proper position to mirror the exhaust cam (both showing there markings face up) and lock both cams into position with the tool. now your ready to remove the damaged timing chain assembly.

 

Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but how far in should the crank locking tool insert? When I install it on my car, the large diameter portion is still sticking about halfway out.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
Pat

 

No worries. It's hard to say exactly how much of the larger diameter portion will be sticking out but it's normal to see some. The ONLY way to be sure that the pin is inserted correctly is to try and turn the engine over by hand. Put your socket and wrench on the crank bolt and try to spin the engine. If it rotates, the pin isn't inserted correctly. Once it's inserted into the correct flywheel hole and the cam timing marks are facing up, you won't be able to turn the engine by hand.

CAUTION: DO NOT do this while the timing chain tensioner is removed. This is what got me into trouble and jumped the cam out of time. The Bentley manual had me remove the tensioner a bit to early and I learned the hard way. If it's already out, put it back in until your confident the locking pin is inserted correctly.

I hope this helps.