Blown OEM rear shock at less than 20,000 miles?
#1
Blown OEM rear shock at less than 20,000 miles?
I can't figure out what's wrong with the right-rear of my car after selling my Konis and going back to stock. I've re-built the shock twice in the same fashion as the driver's side rear (same cut bump stop and everything) but it's making a large metallic clanking sound and squeaking sound on every bump it touches. Is my shock blown? My endlinks are all tightened down also and torqued to spec already.
Made a video on the freeway with the sounds:
Made a video on the freeway with the sounds:
#2
I can't figure out what's wrong with the right-rear of my car after selling my Konis and going back to stock. I've re-built the shock twice in the same fashion as the driver's side rear (same cut bump stop and everything) but it's making a large metallic clanking sound and squeaking sound on every bump it touches. Is my shock blown? My endlinks are all tightened down also and torqued to spec already.
OEM (Sachs?) shocks aren't known for their longevity. My front shock seized at 23K miles. I've read reports of others loosing theirs even sooner.
One way to confirm is to swap the rear shocks left vs. right, and see if the noise moves with the suspect shock to the other side of the car.
If you replace them, please buy something of higher quality (unless you are selling the car).
HTH,
a
Last edited by afadeev; 06-09-2013 at 04:50 PM.
#3
#4
Question, why do you have cut bump stops? Is your MINI sitting on lowering springs? Did that strut make any noise before the Koni's were installed?
I have to disagree with the sentiment that the oem shocks are of poor quality. It is a possibility it is bad, but I'm thinking the top nut has worked loose. Possibly the spring is not rotated correctly & is not sitting in the seat correctly. Is there any oil staining at the top where the shaft comes out of the body?
It has been my experience when there is a clanking sound it is something other than the strut itself.
I have to disagree with the sentiment that the oem shocks are of poor quality. It is a possibility it is bad, but I'm thinking the top nut has worked loose. Possibly the spring is not rotated correctly & is not sitting in the seat correctly. Is there any oil staining at the top where the shaft comes out of the body?
It has been my experience when there is a clanking sound it is something other than the strut itself.
#5
I cut the bump stops when I had konis and tsw springs installed in the past. The konis did have a minor sound on the back passenger side also initially. OEM's with original non-cut bump stops had no sounds.
Question, why do you have cut bump stops? Is your MINI sitting on lowering springs? Did that strut make any noise before the Koni's were installed?
I have to disagree with the sentiment that the oem shocks are of poor quality. It is a possibility it is bad, but I'm thinking the top nut has worked loose. Possibly the spring is not rotated correctly & is not sitting in the seat correctly. Is there any oil staining at the top where the shaft comes out of the body?
It has been my experience when there is a clanking sound it is something other than the strut itself.
I have to disagree with the sentiment that the oem shocks are of poor quality. It is a possibility it is bad, but I'm thinking the top nut has worked loose. Possibly the spring is not rotated correctly & is not sitting in the seat correctly. Is there any oil staining at the top where the shaft comes out of the body?
It has been my experience when there is a clanking sound it is something other than the strut itself.
#6
Your stock shocks are probably bottoming internally with the "cut" bumpstops. This destroys them. If you bring the car to the dealer like this they will void the warranty. If you put new, full-height stock bumpstops on, after soaking in some dirty oil to make them not look brand new, you just might get away with it.
Normally, I would not advise this, but BMW/Mini is proving to be so sleazy with so many customers with motor failures that are clearly their fault, anything you can beat them out of them, go for it.
If you spray the shafts with some cheap lacquer, then drive on some bumpy roads at speed, you will be able to see full installed bump travel. then remove the shock and compress to the mark. If the shocks bottom internally rather than being stopped on the compression stroke by the stops, you have found your problem.
DOC
Normally, I would not advise this, but BMW/Mini is proving to be so sleazy with so many customers with motor failures that are clearly their fault, anything you can beat them out of them, go for it.
If you spray the shafts with some cheap lacquer, then drive on some bumpy roads at speed, you will be able to see full installed bump travel. then remove the shock and compress to the mark. If the shocks bottom internally rather than being stopped on the compression stroke by the stops, you have found your problem.
DOC
#7
Thanks for the info Doc. I have a new pair of OEM bumpstops on order and cancelled my appointment with the dealer.
Your stock shocks are probably bottoming internally with the "cut" bumpstops. This destroys them. If you bring the car to the dealer like this they will void the warranty. If you put new, full-height stock bumpstops on, after soaking in some dirty oil to make them not look brand new, you just might get away with it.
Normally, I would not advise this, but BMW/Mini is proving to be so sleazy with so many customers with motor failures that are clearly their fault, anything you can beat them out of them, go for it.
If you spray the shafts with some cheap lacquer, then drive on some bumpy roads at speed, you will be able to see full installed bump travel. then remove the shock and compress to the mark. If the shocks bottom internally rather than being stopped on the compression stroke by the stops, you have found your problem.
DOC
Normally, I would not advise this, but BMW/Mini is proving to be so sleazy with so many customers with motor failures that are clearly their fault, anything you can beat them out of them, go for it.
If you spray the shafts with some cheap lacquer, then drive on some bumpy roads at speed, you will be able to see full installed bump travel. then remove the shock and compress to the mark. If the shocks bottom internally rather than being stopped on the compression stroke by the stops, you have found your problem.
DOC
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#8
#9
I think I overlooked that part as well when I was putting in the new bumpstops. Will have to order a new pair and put those in.
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