Update:

Had the the gear oil changed (used Red Line) and my shifting problem persists. Turns out I have a leaking motor mount (left side as you look at engine) as well. When it rains it pours.

Wish there was a definitive way to know if the clutch was the issue, other than to wait and see if it fails ...which I assume is not a good idea as I don't want to put the transmission at risk.

Guess I need to decide if I should go with a MINI clutch or aftermarket.

Suggestions?

I have always owned Hondas, so never had a car prone to issues before. I did a lot of research before buying my MINI, knew what I was getting into and told myself that when things started to crap out I'd get rid of it.

Easier said then done. I love my car and there is nothing else out there that I find even remotely appealing.

Other than the SC, thermostat housing and power steering pump, is there anything else that has a good chance of breaking?

Dean.

 

How bad is the mount? I've seen mounts fail on other cars and it totally screws up shifting since it stresses the linkage and cables... Just a thought.

 

I was wondering about that myself.

I did some searching here and other folks with bad mounts have heard a knocking noise. I don't have that. But, I see dried up residue from the leak that ran towards the front of the engine and there is a tiny bit of fresh fluid at the base of the mount.

I'll be getting it replaced asap and it sure would be great if that solved my problem !

Dean.

 

Subscribing to this thread for interest.

Every now and again (once every few months, maybe.) my car does not want to shift into first. There are no other symptoms. It seems to help if I shift into 2nd and then back to 1st. I've had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced, there were no metal shavings in it.

It hasn't gotten any worse since ~1.5 years/25,000KM ago when it first cropped up.

 

Well, I'd replace that motor mount for sure, but I still think you need a clutch.

Again, call Way and talk to him about the Valeo kit, it works beautifully and it's much less expensvie (for parts - the labor's the same) than a factory clutch.

As for the supercharger, I wouldn't worry about it, I've seen them go well over 200K with no issues.

 

This has been an interesting thread. I've thought from the beginning, that the tests suggested initially are trying to see if the clutch Engages (like foot off the clutch pedal) -and yours does, so that's good. -But this would have nothing to do with your problem.

You want to know if the clutch Dis-Engages when you push the pedal to the floor. -I found in my Haynes repair manual a test (and I'm curious to know if the same test is recommended by Bently. The Bently manual is way better than my $15-Haynes book) -It said to start the engine, depress the clutch all the way to the floor, release the clutch 1/2 inch from the floor and shift from reverse to first gear back and forth several times, and if your clutch is disengaging properly it should not grind.

If you fail this test, look at the slave and or clutch master cylinder. I'd probably start by bleeding the line (that in itself can be a challenge. -I think Pelican has a good write up on it though)

Did I read that you said double clutching didn't help... I assume you were matching revs as well? If so, technically when the revs are matched perfect you can shift without grinding and without disengaging the clutch at all. -This is all pointing towards not being a clutch problem as I see it.

I also know that after I replaced my motor-mount that my shifting got smoother.

I'm leaning toward motormount, cable alignment, etc. I hope the forks (or whatever you call them in a MINI) and stuff inside the tranny aren't bent.

 

Sounded kinda' scary, but I tried it and it works, albeit with stiffness. I had to push a bit hard to get it into each gear ...but it went in, no grinding at all.

Dean.

 

That's what I guessed. Your clutch is fine. I hope the motor mount repair will help the cables to work better, when the engine/transaxle doesn't move around under torque as much.

I could really feel the difference a lot about how far I would have to pull the shift lever back before feeling it click into 2nd gear. Much better after having fixed mount -always feels like its in the right place now.

While I was waiting for my parts to arrive I was being very conscientious of my every move and how it affected the tilt of the engine. I didn't want to be pushing pulling twisting against the other mounts knowing that I had one that was bad (it was really bad). I would accelerate gently, then lift up on the throttle and hold a constant speed for just a moment, then disengage clutch, shift, engage clutch, gently accelerate some more, repeat etc..

. -Seems I always drive this way, but with a little extra care (like acting as if as if i were driving in freezingconditions) and making sure I didn't take the engine from being torqued under load, to depressing clutch, and having it twist back as I'm trying to change gears. i thought that would be bad. -just that little extra pause in my input of controls seemed to help. BTW, if you gently slowly take 1st all the way to 5k, you get more time to gently shift to neutral, then to 2nd, because the revs fall all the way to 3k before you're matched for 2nd gear. RPM's fall quicker with AC on though. Don't mean to ramble on -I'm sure you know to drive. Truth is it would have been best if I didn't drive it while it was broken -but you know......

 

Update ...

Had the motor mount replaced (mechanic said it was completely shot) and things are no better. In one way they are worse ...its really easy to go 1-2-1 when shifting, rather than 1-2-3. In fact, it is sometimes easier to mistake first for third when going 30 mph than to get it into first from a dead start.

That can't be right.

Mechanic says linkage looks fine. Cables greased. Gear oil changed. New motor mount. I'm out of ideas.

Maybe I do need a clutch ?

There is no slippage and no grinding, but there *seems* to be less and less pedal all the time. I'm not sure if this is real or imagined because I'm getting pretty darn paranoid about the clutch.

My mechanic says it will be very obvious when it needs to be replaced. The car will either be nearly impossible to drive or simply won't go. I just don't want to damage the transmission in the meantime.

Dean.

 

I would consider replacing and/or re-bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. I can't say for sure that the slave would cause issues with certain gears but it is a lot cheaper then a clutch and labor to drop the tranny etc. If you do go that route just make sure it is bled properly, there is plenty of documentation out there on how to do it, basically just hold the cylinder fully compressed while bleeding. As others have said there are usually other signs of a clutch going south - slipping, noisy throwout bearing etc. which leads me to believe something else is at fault. I may have missed this but is there any difference shifting into the troubled gears with the engine off?

 

When the engine is off everything is nice and smooth. No issues.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Wish I was a mechanic !

Dean.

 

Like others have said, take a look at the clutch slave cylinder...could be leaking internally. Also, have you had anyone else drive your car to give you their opinion? If so, are they having the same problems that you are?

 

I'd change all the mounts (top, bottom, gearbox, control arms). All of them affect how the gearbox sits relative to the shifter pivot point and can change with heat.

 

Only my mechanic, who concurs with the shifting issues and thinks my clutch lets out much to close to the floor ...yet he agrees there is no slippage or grinding.

I drove the car the long way home today and the shifting got worse as time went on, to the point where I was really having to pay attention to what I was doing. The gearbox is not only stiff, but now it feels sloppy. I'll go for third and hit fifth, go for 6th and hit 4th. Going from 2nd to 3rd on a few occasions it was as if I was locked out of 3rd. Again, no grinding, but not going into gear without a good push.

I'm trying to be careful. I'm not jamming it into gears. If it won't go I simply wait a second try again and push slowly, but firmly. It makes for very awkward driving and the opposite of what we call "motoring" around here.

After 73K miles I'd like to think I know the gearbox ...but not anymore.

Dean.

 

 

It has been suggested it could be the throw out bearing.

Thoughts ?

Dean.

 

I would think you'd be hearing some strange noises if so. Sure sounds like master or slave. I've had them go bad and your symptoms sound familiar. I also hope for your sake it is because they are easy to fix.

 

...and I hope you are right !

Thanks.

My mechanic is on vacation this week, so hopefully I can get this scheduled for next week.

Dean.

 

If what you are saying is actually happening.....that would have nothing to do with your clutch or throwout bearing......and I doubt even anything inside your transmission.

It's either got to be one of two things. Your shift linkage is either screwed up and/or very sloppy, or you just can't drive a stick-shift car

No matter what the problem....if your mechanic can't find the problem, you need to find yourself a new mechanic. He's not trying to diagnose some glitchy computer problem, or send a rocket to the moon.....he's just trying to troubleshoot a shifting issue. Sounds like it should be an easy fix, and he's trying to string you along to get more money out of you.

 

Not the case, he's a good friend and charges me so little there is none to be made.

As I said earlier in this thread, he's not all that familiar with MINIs, but has replaced clutches on 3 MINIs in the last year. So far he's been following my lead based on information I have gotten here. He actually thought greasing the cables would be a waste of time and he was right. Changing the gear oil at 73K is good idea anyway, so why not try? Same with the blown motor mount, it was a necessary fix anyway.

He's looked at the linkage and sees nothing wrong with it. The car shifts fine with the engine off and when cold. The problem only occurs once warm. I am no mechanic ...but don't see how a linkage would operate differently once the engine is warm. But, I could be wrong.

I could always take it to MINI and be done with it, but dealers tend to take the most expensive route first.

Oh ...I've never owned a car with an auto trans in the 38 years I've been driving ...never burnt out a clutch either.

I sure wish I had taken Auto Shop in high school instead of Wood Shop.

Dean.

 

I concurre with others who believe that since your clutch engages and disengages okay, that the problem is elsewhere.

There are two cables, and I couldn't say which one does what, but it wouldn't be hard to figure out just by watching them as someone inside the car moves the gear shift around.

(Someone here will correct me if I'm wrong here), I think one cable controls the forward and aft motion, like are you in 3rd, Neutral or 4th.

The other cable controls the left and right motion, like are you lined up for Reverse, 1st, 3rd or 5th. (this seems to be the trouble you're having)

My bet is that either your Selector Lever With Support (#1 in the gearbox diagram) is bent or very loose and sloppy, or in the other diagram (gear selector diagram) one of the cables has stretched, or the clip (like peices 7, 8, or 9) are bent or missing.

I also still think that if other motormounts or gear box mounts are not holding the gearbox in the correct location, that would contribute to the problem.

Keep us posted.

 

I know it has no purpose now since clutch was ruled out but just an fyi,

Another sure way to ensure clutch is good is to park on a steep hill in facing up the hill put in first gear no ebrake with car off. After 1 min no movement clutch is good. if jerked back the car needs a new clutch soon. An old trick i know.

 

reelsmith

What mechanic are you using? I know you said its a friend but sometimes its good to get another set of eyes on the issue. I live in Danbury and although I do most of my own work, I do know a very well respected guy on Federal Road near Costco. he's done a few repairs for me. ENI Motorsports - guys name is Craig and he's very honest. Not sure about his prices compared to others but does excellent work. I recommend at least getting an opinion. he does have a little experience with MINIs but also works on cars much more complicated than ours - heres their site http://www.enimotorsports.com/

 

Okay guys, lets regroup and take a step back on this one.

He said it shifts perfectly while the car is off. That alone should tell everyone that THE SHIFT LINKAGE IS WORKING PROPERLY!!! Also, how often do you hear about a shift linkage going out? How about never.

He said that the clutch is grabbing well, just as a good clutch would. So the clutch is fine.

No odd noises are heard from a throw out bearing.

The bad motor mount was replaced, and the problem still exists, so it obviously wasn't that.

Now what exactly is going on here? Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. Okay let's think... What causes the clutch to disengage... AHA! Pushing the clutch pedal down, which actuates the master cylinder which in turn actuates the slave cylinder which depresses the clutch fork which in turn DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH FOR A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE WHILE THE MOTOR AND TRANNY ARE OPERATING AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS.

And how often do people have troubles with clutch slave/master cylinders? A lot more often than a shift linkage goes out. Especially the clutch slave in our MINI's. Think about the nature of a hydraulic system vs mechanical linkage. Hydraulic seals fail over time. Mechanical linkage, even cables are much more reliable, dependable and maintenance free.

Just my .02

 

If the top motor mount was ignored for long enough, the other mounts would also be damaged. Just sayin'.