Replacing supercharger
#1
#4
http://www.*********************/pdf...rgerDoc_v4.pdf
This is another how to, it has a very helpful list of parts. I used it not to long ago.
Best of luck!
This is another how to, it has a very helpful list of parts. I used it not to long ago.
Best of luck!
#5
#6
I can save you a little time, don't bother replacing the pan gasket, it's not leaking. What you're seeing is oil from the crank sensor seal - you'll understand once you get the front of the motor exposed.....you'll see a track where the oil is running down where it follows the lip of the pan, making it look like it's leaking. Just replace the crank sensor o-ring....that will fix it. I've won many a coke betting on this.
Be careful with the black plastic housing where it attaches to the supercharger, it's easy to displace the rubber gasket when getting it back in place and it will leak and make a vacuum noise if you do. Ask me how I know - no, don't........
Also when getting the two stiff plastic pipes out of the black plastic tube (if you do it this way - your choice), if you push down on the pipe as you push down on the red lock ring, it will come loose easily, then hold the lock ring down and slide the pipe out.
Did you say you have a new serpentine belt, and the tool to release the tensioner? Also take a good look at the idler pulleys, now's the time to change them if they're rough.
Are you replacing the supercharger because it failed, or just based on miles? I've seen several s'charger's with well over 200K on them, I'm thinking that 100K estimated life is too conservative.
Good luck with your project!
Be careful with the black plastic housing where it attaches to the supercharger, it's easy to displace the rubber gasket when getting it back in place and it will leak and make a vacuum noise if you do. Ask me how I know - no, don't........
Also when getting the two stiff plastic pipes out of the black plastic tube (if you do it this way - your choice), if you push down on the pipe as you push down on the red lock ring, it will come loose easily, then hold the lock ring down and slide the pipe out.
Did you say you have a new serpentine belt, and the tool to release the tensioner? Also take a good look at the idler pulleys, now's the time to change them if they're rough.
Are you replacing the supercharger because it failed, or just based on miles? I've seen several s'charger's with well over 200K on them, I'm thinking that 100K estimated life is too conservative.
Good luck with your project!
Last edited by MINIdave; 07-06-2013 at 09:58 AM.
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Near Portland, OR, USA
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Quote: "I don't have the tool to release tension or idler pulleys. End quote.
I got tool to release the tensioner-spring from waymotorworks.com. Excellent to work with, fast to get shipping out the door.
I'd say you can borrow mine if you live near me, but chances of that are slim. I'm just south of Portland Oregon, north of Salem Oregon.
I got tool to release the tensioner-spring from waymotorworks.com. Excellent to work with, fast to get shipping out the door.
I'd say you can borrow mine if you live near me, but chances of that are slim. I'm just south of Portland Oregon, north of Salem Oregon.
#9
#11
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Near Portland, OR, USA
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Haven't done mine yet, but always planning...
I'm thinking in addition to what you have listed Thermostat and it's Housing when I get in to do mine. From what I understand it's right there once you get in that far. Your housing may be fine, but since they're known to fail....
#12
I'm certain the belt is fine. I'm just going to wait until I get the 17% pulley ordered and what not to do the belt and idler pulleys etc... I will need to sell my current car and hopefully get what I'd like for it.
I have a thermostat on order, maybe ill pick up a housing since im dumping the oil pan gasket.
I have a thermostat on order, maybe ill pick up a housing since im dumping the oil pan gasket.
#16
Got my SC in from The Netherlands. The SC spins nicely, doesn't appear to have leaked out any of the oil, I might crack open the fill ports and see if I can see any oil.
Downside is during shipping the pulley was bumped due to the lack of proper packaging and it bent the lip in a bit which will probably make the belt fall off. I'll post a pic when I get home. Do you guys think I might be able to bend it back into shape or should I just upgrade to a 15% pulley? I'm running a 2% crank pulley
Downside is during shipping the pulley was bumped due to the lack of proper packaging and it bent the lip in a bit which will probably make the belt fall off. I'll post a pic when I get home. Do you guys think I might be able to bend it back into shape or should I just upgrade to a 15% pulley? I'm running a 2% crank pulley
#18
Alright, new fluid it is. Is it something I can get locally or online only? I'll see if I can find how much I need.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
SC oil change DIY
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
R53 water pump removal( essentially SC removal)
I'm just going o leave this here. Might be useful to he next person that finds this thread he doing the job.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
SC oil change DIY
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
R53 water pump removal( essentially SC removal)
I'm just going o leave this here. Might be useful to he next person that finds this thread he doing the job.
Last edited by JoeGravelle; 07-16-2013 at 06:45 PM.
#19
I could hear a slight metallic grinding sound when standing at the front of the car with the hood open. I think I was just over 90,000 miles at that point. I decided to replace the supercharger. This is what I ordered when I did mine...
All from WMW:
Rebuilt supercharger (w/ coated rotors)
Supercharger inlet gasket
Supercharger outlet gasket
17% supercharger pulley
17% supercharger belt
Water pump
Extra water pump o-ring
Crankshaft position sensor o-ring
Thermostat and gasket
I also replaced the radiator hoses while the front was off and flushed the radiator fluid.
I followed either the water pump thread or the supercharger oil thread, can't remember which.
All from WMW:
Rebuilt supercharger (w/ coated rotors)
Supercharger inlet gasket
Supercharger outlet gasket
17% supercharger pulley
17% supercharger belt
Water pump
Extra water pump o-ring
Crankshaft position sensor o-ring
Thermostat and gasket
I also replaced the radiator hoses while the front was off and flushed the radiator fluid.
I followed either the water pump thread or the supercharger oil thread, can't remember which.
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