A/C Pulley or Crank Pulley
#1
A/C Pulley or Crank Pulley
Driving home today I lost all power accelerating from a stop light and the battery, DSC and check engine light came one with a reduction in power.
I can rev it in nuetral but on the go it will not go past 2000 RPM.
I had it towed home - AAA is well worth it.
After it cooled down I started it up and the lights are all off but I can hear a clicking noise.
Turn the A/C on and I notice the A/C belt would randomly stop and causing the belt to stop moving for a moment and the battery/check engine light are illuminated.
Car has 94,000 miles.
Would it be the A/C compressor seizing or the crank pulley?
Thanks !
I can rev it in nuetral but on the go it will not go past 2000 RPM.
I had it towed home - AAA is well worth it.
After it cooled down I started it up and the lights are all off but I can hear a clicking noise.
Turn the A/C on and I notice the A/C belt would randomly stop and causing the belt to stop moving for a moment and the battery/check engine light are illuminated.
Car has 94,000 miles.
Would it be the A/C compressor seizing or the crank pulley?
Thanks !
#3
#4
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Sounds like it's time for an ATI Damper to replace the crank pulley.
If you're smelling rubber that is a good sign it's the crank pulley. The easiest way to check it is to pry on the pulley between the pulley and the block and if it moves more than 1/16 of an inch it's junk.
If you're smelling rubber that is a good sign it's the crank pulley. The easiest way to check it is to pry on the pulley between the pulley and the block and if it moves more than 1/16 of an inch it's junk.
#6
#7
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#8
I am a big fan of preventive maintenance. Fix it before it bites particularly on things we know are going bad eventually.
Rich
#9
#13
Took off the belt and confirmed that the crank pulley os the cause.
Inner half of the pulley spins without resistance.
Now is the hardest part after replacing the pulley is getting the new belt on?
ALso, I found a video with someone replacing the tensioner by removing the upper motor mount instead of removing the lower motor mounts and raising the motor.
Inner half of the pulley spins without resistance.
Now is the hardest part after replacing the pulley is getting the new belt on?
ALso, I found a video with someone replacing the tensioner by removing the upper motor mount instead of removing the lower motor mounts and raising the motor.
#14
You can do the crank damper and the pulley from the wheel well....no need to jack the motor.... Heck jacking it up unless you go a couple feet will make it harder....
Belt is simple...just compress the tensioner...and use a screwdriver or Allen wrench as a stop to keep it compressed.... The when done...route the belt...release the tension.
Belt is simple...just compress the tensioner...and use a screwdriver or Allen wrench as a stop to keep it compressed.... The when done...route the belt...release the tension.
#16
I just realized something this morning.
The bolt that is used to hold down the bracket with the black vacuum line and electrical connection that is disconnected to remove is the belt is the same size as the crank pulley bolt but a little bit longer.
This could be used for someone needing a longer bolt to press in the
new harmonic pulley.
The bolt that is used to hold down the bracket with the black vacuum line and electrical connection that is disconnected to remove is the belt is the same size as the crank pulley bolt but a little bit longer.
This could be used for someone needing a longer bolt to press in the
new harmonic pulley.
#19
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