HI! {insert wave} Long time lurker, first post...

I have an '04 R50 (Liquid Yellow) with the Midlands 5 speed, the build date is 5/4/04.
I was driving the other day, shifting through the gears, hit 3rd and CLUNK nothing but the engine revving.
I figured it was the clutch as I had a similar problem last summer. Towed it home and tore it down, the throwout bearing had separated but the clutch looked fine. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate and bearing as all I could find locally was the clutch kit.
Reassembled everything and NOTHING, you can hear the clutch slipping on the flywheel but it doesn't engage enough to move the car. No apparent leaks on the master and have bled the slave. Any input on where to go from here? Think it's the flywheel? I'm at a loss...

Sorry if this has been addressed previously, I've searched for hours and have come up empty handed.

 

One thing I did notice is the fluid is a brownish color. How much would the fluid affect the ability of the clutch to engage? My limited understanding leads me to believe it would have more of an effect on disengaging the clutch.

 

Hopefully there is zero fluid on the clutch friction plate. The flywheel is a dual mass design. It sounds like you might have a flywheel failure or possibly your throw out bearing slipped off the forks and is wedged between the pressure plate and fork.

Before you tear it down rule out slave and master cylinder air!!!! I had to depress my peddle for 24 hours ( using a stick to wedge it to the floor) to get the air to bleed out. After 24 hours I had perfect clutch operation. My clutch wouldn't fully disengage after I replaced bearing, pp, and disk, slave and master cylinder

 

Thanks for the reply, I will give it a try. Hopefully it isn't the flywheel... Shouldn't be anything on the plate, I was very careful when working with it.

 

Turns out the front right cv joint is bad. The axle turns but the wheel doesn't... The front left axle isn't turning at all. Any idea why this would be? I've got replacements for both on the way but I am wondering if there may be additional problems I should be on the lookout for.

 

Well you call it "bad" I would call it broken. Your car wouldn't move with a snapped CV joint because of the open diff. All the power is going to the wheel with the least resistance which in this case is the broken half-shaft.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NAMotoring

 

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping it would be something as simple as that.