Preventative maintenance - age versus mileage
#26
Alright, here is what I'm about to order from Way. What's missing?
Belt
Tensioner stop
Plugs
Tensioner bushings
ATI damper pulley
Crank bolt
Crank seal
Belt tool
Redline MTL
Oil filter & drain plug
Oil filter socket
Bentley manual
LightInSight (not maintenance-related, but I need it if it works!)
I will buy water wetter and oil from NAPA.
Belt
Tensioner stop
Plugs
Tensioner bushings
ATI damper pulley
Crank bolt
Crank seal
Belt tool
Redline MTL
Oil filter & drain plug
Oil filter socket
Bentley manual
LightInSight (not maintenance-related, but I need it if it works!)
I will buy water wetter and oil from NAPA.
///Rich
#27
#28
Stock those cheap O-rings/gaskets & replace when(not if) they leak. More due to age than miles.
They're not too difficult to do. The crank position sensor O-ring might need car on service mode.
Tensioner damper is just held on by 2 bolts. Remove & Check. If resistance is gone, buy the whole Gates assembly around $70. Same as OEM except for price & oddly, cheaper than the Stabilus damper itself if you can source 1. Those damper bushes fail, too. Way has both Delrin & Powerflex replacement bushes.
Talk to Way on the stop. Alta's design was ok, just needed to be thicker, I guess. And it's pretty noisy due to vibrations. I'm happy w/ my 4month test results of Alta's other design- the Adjustable Tensioner Stop. This is best paired w/ Stretch-Fit Belt of stock size, if you can source 1.
They're not too difficult to do. The crank position sensor O-ring might need car on service mode.
Tensioner damper is just held on by 2 bolts. Remove & Check. If resistance is gone, buy the whole Gates assembly around $70. Same as OEM except for price & oddly, cheaper than the Stabilus damper itself if you can source 1. Those damper bushes fail, too. Way has both Delrin & Powerflex replacement bushes.
Talk to Way on the stop. Alta's design was ok, just needed to be thicker, I guess. And it's pretty noisy due to vibrations. I'm happy w/ my 4month test results of Alta's other design- the Adjustable Tensioner Stop. This is best paired w/ Stretch-Fit Belt of stock size, if you can source 1.
#29
Rich must be referring to the crank shaft seal behind the harmonic damper PN11111485171, if I'm not mistaken.
I'm not sure how long the O-ring would last w/ constant moving contact w/the slot on the tensioner stop. Just ignore the noise. It's a minor downside of that type of stop. The tensioner damper also doesn't last very long. Good thing Gates made its price w/in reach.
I'm not sure how long the O-ring would last w/ constant moving contact w/the slot on the tensioner stop. Just ignore the noise. It's a minor downside of that type of stop. The tensioner damper also doesn't last very long. Good thing Gates made its price w/in reach.
#31
I'm honestly not sure. I'm reading through that thread right now. Is there a quick way to check?
Also, I got a great surprise this morning! I am doing a brake flush today, and when I pulled my rear wheel, I found something I didn't know was there. At least now I understand why I can get the car to rotate so nicely...
P.S. I hate whoever torqued my wheel studs to two-hundred-something ft-lbs.
Also, I got a great surprise this morning! I am doing a brake flush today, and when I pulled my rear wheel, I found something I didn't know was there. At least now I understand why I can get the car to rotate so nicely...
P.S. I hate whoever torqued my wheel studs to two-hundred-something ft-lbs.
#32
If your noisy hi speed fan cycles on & off w/ A/C on, low speed resistor is toast. The low is supposed to be constantly on w/ A/C til pressure reaches 18bar. This is how our fan works:
Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).
High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.
The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.
Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).
High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.
The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.
#33
If your noisy hi speed fan cycles on & off w/ A/C on, low speed resistor is toast. The low is supposed to be constantly on w/ A/C til pressure reaches 18bar. This is how our fan works:
Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).
High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.
The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.
Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).
High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.
The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.
#36
I replaced my spark plugs this morning, and I'm amazed at the difference in drivability. The engine is smoother at idle, as well as under acceleration and engine braking. I don't know whether to credit the deterioration of the old plugs (see picture below) or the fact that both #2 and #3 were not even hand-tight (note the carbon above the threads).
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