ECL and loss of acceleration when stepping on the accelerator
#1
ECL and loss of acceleration when stepping on the accelerator
The vehicle in question is a Mini One, 2007, 1.4, Petrol with 110,000 miles. Before the ECL I was experiencing loss of acceleration when stepping on the accelerator to overtake other vehicles and driving up a hill. The ECL flashed 24 hour ago and I went straight down to the local garage to retrieve fault codes before the light disappeared. The code were retrieved using a generic OBD scanner:
2B68: Intake-manifold pressure value too low.
276A: Catalytic converter conversion rate faulty
2AC2: O2 sensor (bank, sensor 1) mixture too lean.
The vehicle was serviced 4 weeks ago and had the usual oil, filter, brake pad/disc, and air filter changed, however it failed the emission test. The fault was tracked down to a faulty Catalytic converter and O2 sensor. The garage technician replaced the Post-Cat sensor since it had expired and ran a cleaner to clean the Catalytic converter of impurities. And the vehicle passed emission test.
I am aware the vehicle requires a new Catalytic converter as cleaning it is a temporary solution. Should I purchase a genuine Catalytic converter or a cheap after-market one? What is the different between the two? or am I paying slightly more due to the branding?
Second question is the 2AC2 linked to the under performing Catalytic converter or should I retest the Pre-Cat converter?
Third and final question the fault code 2B68 suggest the 'Intake-manifold pressure value too low' does that suggest my MAP sensor is running faulty since it is not able to draw the correct air to fuel ratio.
Please help a brother out.
Thanks in advance.
2B68: Intake-manifold pressure value too low.
276A: Catalytic converter conversion rate faulty
2AC2: O2 sensor (bank, sensor 1) mixture too lean.
The vehicle was serviced 4 weeks ago and had the usual oil, filter, brake pad/disc, and air filter changed, however it failed the emission test. The fault was tracked down to a faulty Catalytic converter and O2 sensor. The garage technician replaced the Post-Cat sensor since it had expired and ran a cleaner to clean the Catalytic converter of impurities. And the vehicle passed emission test.
I am aware the vehicle requires a new Catalytic converter as cleaning it is a temporary solution. Should I purchase a genuine Catalytic converter or a cheap after-market one? What is the different between the two? or am I paying slightly more due to the branding?
Second question is the 2AC2 linked to the under performing Catalytic converter or should I retest the Pre-Cat converter?
Third and final question the fault code 2B68 suggest the 'Intake-manifold pressure value too low' does that suggest my MAP sensor is running faulty since it is not able to draw the correct air to fuel ratio.
Please help a brother out.
Thanks in advance.
#3
I am not boy racer therefore do not require a tuned or high performance convertor. I am looking for a standard long life cat converter which will solve the ECL and get me though emission test yearly. I heard an after-market cat convertor has a life of 25,000 miles and Mini's genuine cat convertor can teach 80,000 miles. I would probably take the hit and purchase a genuine or OEM convertor which can last.
#4
#5
You'll do just great with a magnaflow OEM replacement or Catco is a great company. These two will undercut the cost of the stock unit, perform at least as well as stock and bolt right on. 49-date legal in the USA, check local laws. Figure in up to $250 USD for your application.
Do you believe the problem will rectify the acceleration hesitation?
#6
Just purchased a OEM cat converter and took it the garage to get a quote. I was told it is a big job because majority of the front section must come off and it would require the coolant system to be emptied and topped up.
Please can someone confirm this is truth?
Please can someone confirm this is truth?
Last edited by ozmusafir; 01-25-2014 at 05:32 AM.
#7
Shouldn't be too much work. I was going to say buy a universal catalytic converter (they can match you with a part number, and have it welded into your existing tubing. Safe, effective, less costly.
Since you already have one, look into the cost of new lambda sensors, for now or for the future. Sorry I couldn't be more help, I'm not the most fit researcher of UK sites.
Since you already have one, look into the cost of new lambda sensors, for now or for the future. Sorry I couldn't be more help, I'm not the most fit researcher of UK sites.
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#8
The convertor looks same as this: (http://www.cats2u.co.uk/34268/Cataly...r/MINI/ONE/1.4) however it is OEM, therefore should last a long time with proper care. JcarrollWS6 you have been great help and made me feel welcome on the forum. The garage is asking for $800 to replace it since according to them is a big job which requires majority of the front section remove and later the coolant replaced. I want to confirm if that is the case?
#9
JcarrollWS6 you have been great help and made me feel welcome on this forum.
I brought the full manifold Cat-converter assembly, since all stores stock this item of part, rather than just the Cat-converter housing.
The garage quoted $800 to replace the Cat-converter since it is a complex job which requires majority of the front dismantle and the coolant system bled and replaced.
I would like to confirm if that is such the case?
I brought the full manifold Cat-converter assembly, since all stores stock this item of part, rather than just the Cat-converter housing.
The garage quoted $800 to replace the Cat-converter since it is a complex job which requires majority of the front dismantle and the coolant system bled and replaced.
I would like to confirm if that is such the case?
#10
#11
One question what is the disadvantage of purchasing a cat converter taken from a dismantle car with only 5000 miles on the clock and have it refitted to mine?
view link below at the one i am interested in: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-Mini-...item35d1372cb6
#13
Can you or anyone else double confirm that?
#14
#17
Update: The genuine Catalytic converter including two 02 sensors arrived yesterday and was replaced by a local garage along with new NGK spark plugs for $250. Bargain Alert!
I took the car for a drive today and the problem has been resolved. I am able to accelerate at high-speeds without hesitation.
JcarrollWS6 fancy a race? Anyway jokes apart, BIG thanks to JcarrollWS6 If you ever come to England, stop by for a coffee.
I took the car for a drive today and the problem has been resolved. I am able to accelerate at high-speeds without hesitation.
JcarrollWS6 fancy a race? Anyway jokes apart, BIG thanks to JcarrollWS6 If you ever come to England, stop by for a coffee.
#19
Hi @JcarollWs6
Would you mind helping me with my 2009 1.4 R56 N12 issue too .
My car failed on emissions very bad. Mechanic said it is the lambda sensor and i have got it replaced and got a full service with new oil , filters, brake disc and pads
It still failed the test on emissions . I see it is reading P1105 on obd2 reader, no engine light or anything .
Car is running all good , high on fuel consumption is what i notice .
Same mechanic insisting me to change the catalytic converter now which costs me 600 , just looking for second opinion
Regards
Would you mind helping me with my 2009 1.4 R56 N12 issue too .
My car failed on emissions very bad. Mechanic said it is the lambda sensor and i have got it replaced and got a full service with new oil , filters, brake disc and pads
It still failed the test on emissions . I see it is reading P1105 on obd2 reader, no engine light or anything .
Car is running all good , high on fuel consumption is what i notice .
Same mechanic insisting me to change the catalytic converter now which costs me 600 , just looking for second opinion
Regards
Last edited by Darshan Yogendra; 01-14-2020 at 10:50 PM.
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