I have seen a few threads here and there on inner and outter tie rod removal. I have a 2002 MINI Cooper S im currently putting a new wheel bearing in and figured while i have this thing on jack stands replacing all my tie rods also. MOTD is getting near! On the inner tie rod end anyone know exactly how difficult it is to remove?

 

if you live in new england, most likely they are shot and will need to be torched amd cut. if youre lucky they wont need much doctoring. i dont know the exact process, and have never done mine, but from what ive read, they can be a pain. best of luck to you.

 

Depending on your mileage and what previous maintenance has already been done, I'd say if your tie rod ends are shot, then your control arm bushings and ball joints are due as well. Since you're going to need an alignment anyway, do it all at the same time.

 

Pelican Parts has well-documented and written "How-To's" on nearly every bit of the R53.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

+1
Ball joints will go way before the tie rods.
Unfortunately, they can be difficult to replace. The inners are tough because the two mounting bolts are obstructed by the axles. The outer ones are inevitably frozen into the steering knuckle. The bushings? A royal PITA. Be prepared, this job won't go smoothly.

DO NOT torch the inner tie rods. You run a very high risk of destroying the seals on the rack. If the bellows on the rack haven't torn, then the tie rods should come off without any issues. The inner tie rod is just threaded into the end of the rack. Grab the outer portion with a wrench and twist it off.

The tie rod adjustment threads are the ones that really rust up quickly. I'd recommend replacing the entire tie rod assemblies and lather up the adjustment threads with anti-sieze

 

Here a thread with the links to the parts.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

When the outer tie rods are bad , you will hear a clunk on the outside ( when you go over a bump and turn the well ), sometimes felling it in the steering wheel , or can move the wheel on a rack and see the play in the outside ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle.

I recommend doing the whole tie rod and not just the ends when you are up north. The section where the inner rod connects to the outer rod can be a pain even with a pipe wrench on each side. I had them gum up and stick many times. Then when you go back to have it aligned it makes it much easier which new ones. Use a little anti-sizez on the threads and do all the threads on that inner rod. Then when the dial in the toe its really easy.

You will need the up to 5/2003 production Tie rods.



The bellow ( boots ) are for all Gen 1 and include the boot and the inner / outer clamp.

If the boots are torn replace them. Then crimp the clamps.

Steering Rack Boot Kit Part #32136756757

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32136756757/




Thanks and hope that helps.

 

[QUOTE=ECSTuning;3880278]Here a thread with the links to the parts.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

When the outer tie rods are bad , you will hear a clunk on the outside ( when you go over a bump and turn the well ), sometimes felling it in the steering wheel , or can move the wheel on a rack and see the play in the outside ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle.

I recommend doing the whole tie rod and not just the ends when you are up north. The section where the inner rod connects to the outer rod can be a pain even with a pipe wrench on each side. I had them gum up and stick many times. Then when you go back to have it aligned it makes it much easier which new ones. Use a little anti-sizez on the threads and do all the threads on that inner rod.


My MINI is an 2002 Cooper S that originally come Chicago Illinois so you can imagine the rust I have to deal with everything I repair or replace I go ahead and put everything new back right down to nuts and bolts.
My tie rods don't actually seem to be bad but my problem is when I have it aligned or well try to the nut on the inner is totally seized to the outter. So I have decided to replace both outter and inner both sides. As far as I can tell the boots look good no tears or anything to that nature. I am planning on going to MOTD 2014 so I want to make sure everything is in proper working order before I go.

 

Sounds like a plan.

You have all the common things to check in that linked thread. When you are on the dragon you will know if your suspension is tight, its a smooth road, but very twisty. The salt can really do a number on exposed threads.

 

I just replaced my inner and outers last week, along with ball joints. The write up from pelican is how to do it with the subframe still on the car. I had my subframe dropped for the LCA bushings so I decided to do some preventative maintenance and replace everything. My tie-rods were seized in place, the jam nut would not break free. I had no problem getting it out of the steering knuckle without cutting them off, but they were fairly worn and loose. All in all, replacing the tie rods is a fairly easy and straight forward job, just be careful to ensure you measure your old tie rods and try to get the new ones as close as possible, then get an alignment right after.