2006 Mini Cooper s valve body replacement problems
#1
2006 Mini Cooper s valve body replacement problems
Hello everyone, I recently replaced my
Valve body according to the instructions on another post aisin transmissions failed at 80k and I am tho wing a p0970 and I cannot shift out of fifth gear and it is stuck in ep mode! Please help if you've experienced this!
Valve body according to the instructions on another post aisin transmissions failed at 80k and I am tho wing a p0970 and I cannot shift out of fifth gear and it is stuck in ep mode! Please help if you've experienced this!
#6
If you replaced the valve body and solenoids, did you check all the wires? Make sure the contacts were good and no bad connections:
Cable Harness - Part # 24367551111
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/24367551111/
&
Wiring Harness - Temperature Sensor part # 24367551110
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/24367551110/
There are also wires on the back but they are rotational speed sensor, good to give them a quick check also.
After all that remember to check the trans fluid level.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...at-80k-13.html
Cable Harness - Part # 24367551111
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/24367551111/
&
Wiring Harness - Temperature Sensor part # 24367551110
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/24367551110/
There are also wires on the back but they are rotational speed sensor, good to give them a quick check also.
After all that remember to check the trans fluid level.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...at-80k-13.html
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 02-27-2014 at 06:46 AM.
#7
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#8
Alright so back a little while and it was found to be a faulty solenoid. Replaced the solenoid bought an entire new set of trans fluid and put it all back together, getting pretty good as this is my third time, less than two hours! Okay well my problem arises again, drove WONDERFULLY after getting it all together. Went out the following day while the weather was about 30 degrees and had a rough time getting into to reverse. Got into drive and voila! Back into fifth gear stuck and throwing codes po700 and po970 again!
#9
So my mini went back into ep mode and I was p. o.'d. So I got te brilliant idea to restart the car and to my excitement I remained in ep mode and still shifted fine... In manual and auto mode. If it's cold outside it gets mad and won't work correctly throw codes and get stuck in ep, but if the car is warm and codes are cleared it works absolutely perfect. Now it wing an intermittent problem I'm totally confused! Anyone know what could cause this? I think we put the correct amount of fluid in as I followed the information rather closely. Any help it greaty appreciated!!
#10
#11
I would do the adaptation. see what that does.. But even though you said you have the correct level of ATF. I would double check it to make sure. If your ATF level is in correct your transmission will display problems like you are having. The proper level in these type of transmissions is critical. Good luck!
#12
Awesome! I do suppose having "too" much could also e an issue? I didn't measure what I took out considering it went into a recycler bucket but I do know that the first time it was quite a bit, I took the valve body out and added nearly 6 qts and after dropping the pan again and replacing the solenoid I added five. Maybe too much it did spill out over the stand pipe while running though, do I need to run it longer or until no more comes out?
#13
Let me check my book to see what the temp of the transmission should be when you check it. Once its at the correct temp you want a small stream to come out of the little stand pipe. proper temp is also the key to getting it at the correct level. After your last reply I bet you level is not correct..
#15
Okay.. when you transmission reaches a temp of 95-133-degrees F.(35 to 45-degrees C.) that is when you want to check your level. Once its at this temp range you should get just a very small stream out of your over flow tube. If you have a scan tool you can use that to monitor your temp to know when you can start checking it.
#16
#18
I did everything you said and indeed got a lot of fluid out before it started a small stream so I was probably overfilled, gonna let it cool down and see if it does the same thing it has been doing. If not, you're awesome and it worked! Haha!
#19
Well I hope it all works out for you! Good luck!
#21
Seems to be doing better, now that ep mode shouldn't come back on it may have the opportunity to actually learn some shift patterns before I go do the adaptations! Hasn't got the chance to cool down entirely but tonght I will get in it rather late and find out and post here.
#22
#23
Seems to be working fine. Started from cold and no shifting problems, reverse was just a little clunky maybe a small bump but that was to be expected until I get it updated. Thank you so much zippy for your information! It's been 3 weeks of hell not having my mini working correctly. Definitely shifts WAY better than when I first got it!! I now know where I'm coming for any problems should they arise. Next project is to get my steering angle sensor replaced then I should be in perfect shape!! Thanks again!
#24
Seems to be working fine. Started from cold and no shifting problems, reverse was just a little clunky maybe a small bump but that was to be expected until I get it updated. Thank you so much zippy for your information! It's been 3 weeks of hell not having my mini working correctly. Definitely shifts WAY better than when I first got it!! I now know where I'm coming for any problems should they arise. Next project is to get my steering angle sensor replaced then I should be in perfect shape!! Thanks again!
#25
Okay so it's been a while since I've posted. I have got the fluid level checked and I also contacted revmax to see what they thought. I was sent a replacement solenoid which did not fix the problem at all, I'm still getting pushed into ep mode on startup after car has completely cooled down. But after I get a quarter way warm and clear the codes it clears and it drives perfectly, just as before. I'm not out of solutions and I'm pretty convinced that the valve body has some mechanical fault that I cannot find. The codes are again, po970 and po700. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. This is driving me crazy! I don't mind letting it warm up and clearing the codes but I feel as though I'm just shrouding the real issue at hand.