I agree with MINISQL. This is, however, different than stumble. Stumble was pre v36 during acceleration. Most likely the reason this bump at 1800 if more noticable with a pully reduction is that the s/c now has a greater drag on the engine at the same engine RPM. I noticed it on my stock MCS during the first really bad rushhour when I was in fist gear trying to keep my speed constant without having to keep using the clutch. Every time I passed 1800 RPM there was a slight jerk.

 

So when coasting to a complete stop, say up to a stop sign, in most normal cases, going from 45mph to 0, you can just drop it into neutral and brake. As I understand it, this wont do anything to hurt the syncro-gears that keep the different parts of the drivetrain in sync, but im not clear on that.

When im simply reducing speed, or maintaining it as I descend a hill, engine breaking is ok, but its better to heel-toe and get the revs up while in neutral, before dropping it down a gear.

Is that about right?? I dont drive manual often. I feel relatively comfortable with it, but certain points like this I just dont know... and the way they build them now with syncro-mesh etc allows for less-than-perfect driving so its hard to know when what you are doing isnt quite right...

P

 

keep it simple. don't keep down shifting when you come to a stop. you won't gain much for gas mileage and and wear out the clutch faster.

leave it in gear and brake until the RPMs drop to 1500-2000 RPM and then take it out of gear and complete the stop with only the brakes. Minimizes clutch wear, brake wear, reduces gas consumption.

 

The jake brake is a fuel pump cut-out switch, it is just a more efficient form of engine braking for diesels.



You just might want to go to www.jakebrake.com you just might find that a jake brake is just a tiny bit more complex than a fuel cut off switch........a sample.....

Engine retarding for enhanced vehicle control.
The Jacobs Engine Brake® is a device that mounts on, or within, the engine overhead. It changes the timing of the engine exhaust valves, turning the engine into a giant air compressor. The resulting retarding power is proportional to engine RPM (always stay within engine manufacturers recommendations). It is typically used on heavy-duty vehicles commercial vehicles ("big rig" trucks and buses) enabling safer vehicle speed control in several driving conditions, from flatlands to steep downhill descents. The result is increased productivity (thus profitability) from shorter trip times (faster downhill control speeds), and reduced maintenance costs and downtime (from reduced use of the foundation braking system).


The principle behind the Jacobs Engine Brake engine retarder is simple. It's a hydraulically operated device that converts a power-producing diesel engine into a power-absorbing retarding mechanism by opening the engine's exhaust valves near the top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The engine creates a distinctive sound while in operation, but is barely noticeable if OEM-quality exhaust mufflers are maintained on the vehicle. To understand how the Jacobs Engine Brake retarder provides its strong retarding power, click here.

Engine braking in a gasoline engine accomplishes the exact same thing....except by brute force..........

 

Why are there signs warning truckers that engine retarding brakes are not permitted in the city?

 

I would just like to throw in my two cents.

I have been using engine braking for years on several different cars. Three of which were run well over 200,000 miles using engine braking regularly (one was a diesel however). I have trouble believing that engine braking will adversly affect the engine. Granted these cars were all fuel injected (as is the mini so I fail to see how disscusion about carbureted vehicles is of any use here, except to show that it USED to be bad). I think at this point it is safe to say that the safety issues, and the wear and tear saved on the clutch, transmission and brakes far out weigh any problems that may in the long run be caused by engine braking (if any).

A car, especially one as small as the mini, will stop far faster to a light, stop sign, or in an emergency using the brakes in conjunction with engine braking. And again in going down hill, if your not using cruise control (which generally will keep you from going to fast down a hill, as well as speeding in general ) engine braking should be sufficent to slow you down.

To those of you who still decide to avoid engine braking, it would be far better to up shift to avoid it then putting the car in neutral or keeping the clutch depressed.

 

>> Why are there signs warning truckers that engine retarding brakes are not >> permitted in the city?

'Cause they can emit a narly BRRRRRRRR sound that rattles windows. Newer compression release trucks are muffled. In my state the near city sign reads "compression brakes must be muffled".

And yeah, Im in there with selective engine braking is the real deal. Everyone has played the long hill coast game but as a regular driving habit no way.

 

Okay after 40 years of making internal cumbustion engines move me around
now I hear I can't downshift, to make sure I'm not ******* the motor ,or am I reading this wrong

 

Yeah, we're all nutty, you clutch it every chance ya get and save up to $1.25 per tank. You'll spot me at the bank grinnin' knowing how much cash I'm stuffing in there.

Brakes are kinda spendy too. I'll invest in an anchor I can toss out the window and snag phone poles.

 

Placing your car in neutral while driving might save you a negaleable amount of gas, but you actual have very little control over a car in neutral gear. The cost of repair and your insurance premiums going up after your acciddent will greatly out weigh any savings you would get from whatever gas you might not be burning, didn't you take driver's ed?

 

You will be treating your car a lot better if you are moderate when you use your engine as a brake. You will also be saving a little fuel and consuming more brake pads.
it all has to do with MODERATION....was with most things in life......except sex......

 

This has been an interesting discussion for me since my MINI is my first manual transmission car and I have been given conflicting information by friends, family members, and co-workers about how to come to a stop.

I will gladly admit that I knew virtually nothing about cars before I bought my MINI (and still know very little compared to most). That said, after driving my MINI for almost 7 months (and 8700 miles) I have found that it just feels right to let the car slow down in gear, using the brakes as needed, until I get to the stopping point or it feels like it's going to stall - then put it in neutral.

After reading this thread, I thought that I had seen this topic somewhere before. Then I remembered...The Manual.

<puts on reading glasses>
"Do not coast with the clutch depressed or with the transmission or selector lever in Neutral. Do not coast with the engine switched off. The engine provides no braking effect when the transmission is in Neutral, and there is no power assist when the engine is switched off." (Owner's Manual - MINI Cooper/MINI Cooper S, page 86)
<takes off reading glasses>

I'm really not trying to be a jerk and I hope I'm not coming off that way. I just thought it would be interesting to see what MINI had to say about the topic.

 

PEP delivers it straight from the horses mouth

Amazing how much 'experience' can cloud peoples opinions, and a fresh perspetive can cut through the cr@p.

I also applaud the poster that pointed out that in many states it's ILLEGAL to coast in neutral!

You'd fail your driving test if you coasted in neutral each time you stopped or went down hill.

And with good reason.....

Being out of gear means that you have just removed the option for you to instantly step on the gas to avoid an unforseen incident.

I guess that's why it's part of the driving test in the US to show that you actively downshift as you slow the car.

As for the cr@p about fuel saving, engine damage, etc etc..

It's just amazing what passes as fact on the Internet

Chris.

 

Is this when you put it back in gear at speed? I would blip the throttle to make sure the revs match up to the speed and gear to maintain control. Of course, since I don't coast in neutral except at 10 mph and below while coming to a stop I could be wrong.

 

See if you can tell the difference:

You are in 4th, doing 50 MPH, red stop light coming up (and you are neither in Mexico City nor Naples, Italy)

a) Wait until the last possible moment, slam on the brakes and stall it to a stop.

b) Wait until the next to last possible moment, ram it into second, bleep the throttle like them cool guys and stop it by ramming it into first, shortly followed by the clutch in and a tap o the brakes.

c) Put in in neutral, shut the engine off, and coast to a stop barely using the brakes. Once stationary and the light green, crank her up again......

d) Lif off the gas, let the engine slow in 4th and as you come near to 10 MPH apply the brakes, put it in third and come to a stop with the clutch in. Put it in second and then first while stationary......

 

oh fart! there goes my 'the answer is always "c"' theory
sort of like "d", but depends on traffic flow..I may downshift in 15mph increments, as I approach the light; fully depress clutch @ 7-10mph; lightly applying brakes as necessary the entire time...I may upshift from second to third who the heck goes 50 in 4th

 

Ah wuz trying to keep it simple. Me I usually downshift at 27.325 MPH into 3rd, 16.976 MPH into 2nd and 5.278 MPH into 1st.......