If its not one thing its another
#26
So the list of things wrong: harmonic balancer, belt, tension assembly, valve cover gasket, right inner boot, both front tires & air filter. So the 1st 4 things listed are big and def caused all the problems. For all $2200 but waiting on tires (gonna replace all 4) and can do the air filter myself. Any suggestions on tires?
If the engine went into limp mode due to lack of oil, it's toast (ask me how I know). But if the harmonic balancer/tensioner caused the limp then you probably still have a decent engine. If you really cared to check up on the engine, you can have your oil tested by companies like Blackstone.
#27
There was a leak, guess a decent one since I put around 4 bottles in around 2 months ago. For some reason my ******* self didn't think about a leak. The guy said I went into limb mode bc of the harmonic balancer. Now that I know to keep an eye on the oil I will doing that....... Never had to worry about it with the Toyota (although I got an oil change more frequently).
#29
They just analyze your oil. Did you go for the ATI? Coz if you went back stock, that will happen again. Have your mechanic check the ff:
-heat exchanger o-rings tend to leak w/ age
-crank seal while changing the damper
-crank position sensor
-oil filter housing, if leaking, gasket isn't pricey.
-oil pan gasket
-heat exchanger o-rings tend to leak w/ age
-crank seal while changing the damper
-crank position sensor
-oil filter housing, if leaking, gasket isn't pricey.
-oil pan gasket
#30
I see that you're in the Raleigh area, what shop did you bring it to?
There is a good one about 1 mile north of downtown on Capital Blvd.
http://www.euromotorsnc.com
I've been there and many people on this forum have been happy with them too.
There is a good one about 1 mile north of downtown on Capital Blvd.
http://www.euromotorsnc.com
I've been there and many people on this forum have been happy with them too.
#31
As already mentioned, Blackstone analyzes a sample of the oil. They can identify if there are traces of metal and what kind of metal (helps to tell what parts are failing). It helps to know if the engine is spitting out metal, that way you can figure out if it's been damaged by the consumption. I doubt it leaked. You would have noticed 4L of oil on the ground.
#32
I took it to apex Peak auto, saw it suggested on tarheel mini. My car broke down about 5 miles from them so to have it towed to capital blvd would've cost way more than I had (insurance coverage).
I'm sure they are replacing with OEM parts, of course they started this am and are not open this wkend to find out for sure. After reading other forums I will be replacing stuff.
I'm sure they are replacing with OEM parts, of course they started this am and are not open this wkend to find out for sure. After reading other forums I will be replacing stuff.
#38
Bav, I've seen both PRW & ATI. I chose the latter as it's just better made than the former from China. For the PRW, inspect the hole for burrs. If any, File & sand them down smooth before installing.
For tires? Here's a sampling:
You can get Chinese Goodrides for sub-$100/corner:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/205-45-17-205-...-/221183392273
While Federal 595s are better known & have better value:
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=281231360288
An even better option: wheel & Bnew tire set:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ion-tires.html
For tires? Here's a sampling:
You can get Chinese Goodrides for sub-$100/corner:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/205-45-17-205-...-/221183392273
While Federal 595s are better known & have better value:
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=281231360288
An even better option: wheel & Bnew tire set:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ion-tires.html
Last edited by minsanity; 05-31-2014 at 07:51 PM.
#43
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ion-tires.html
New bridgestone pole positions on stock S-Lites
New bridgestone pole positions on stock S-Lites
#45
#46
The limp most is most probably the Damper. ATI is the way to go and the job is easy if you have the correct puller. If you never changed your tensioner and belt, do that while you are there.
Limp mode can also come from a bad Bypass valve. A lot of people like the DT one but I didn’t like how it felt and went back to stock. But that would happen if you punch it and it goes into limp. If you’re just tooling around, the damper is most likely the problem.
///Rich
Limp mode can also come from a bad Bypass valve. A lot of people like the DT one but I didn’t like how it felt and went back to stock. But that would happen if you punch it and it goes into limp. If you’re just tooling around, the damper is most likely the problem.
///Rich
#47
It was the harmonic balancer which I think is the same as damper. I'm having the shop I towed it to do all the work since I'm not very car savvy and don't have the time to mess around and learn this time around. I am going to start learning though some DIYs. Going to change to a cold air intake which I think will be easy to do. I live in an apt so only so much I can do there.
#48
Whenever I buy used, I start fresh w/ new fluids. Oil, coolant, brake fluid, tranny & w/ the MINI, even fresh CHF11s Power Steering fluid. I never rely on service records. Use top tier petrol too. 93octane up.
Known weaknesses of R53 (most or all are DIYable):
-Crank Pulley. Change to ATI Super Damper.
-Belt tensioner. Swap every few years w/ $80 Gates from Amazon
-Lower Control Arm, swaybar bushes. Go Powerflex. When doing these w/ subframe off, do the ball joints, PS hose clamps & PS fluid change.
-install Cravenspeed or VIP strut tower reinforcement plates.
-low speed cooling fan. Do the resistor mod or bypass the low speed resistor. There's a sticky on this
-check potential leaks from the ff:
Thermostat
Crank position sensor o-ring behind the radiator
Oil pan gasket
Heat exchanger under the oil filter
Power steering cap O-ring & hose clamps
Coolant Expansion Tank splits. Swap w/ Canton or RMW w/ real caps
All these aren't really difficult to do. There are many threads that discuss these in-depth.
Known weaknesses of R53 (most or all are DIYable):
-Crank Pulley. Change to ATI Super Damper.
-Belt tensioner. Swap every few years w/ $80 Gates from Amazon
-Lower Control Arm, swaybar bushes. Go Powerflex. When doing these w/ subframe off, do the ball joints, PS hose clamps & PS fluid change.
-install Cravenspeed or VIP strut tower reinforcement plates.
-low speed cooling fan. Do the resistor mod or bypass the low speed resistor. There's a sticky on this
-check potential leaks from the ff:
Thermostat
Crank position sensor o-ring behind the radiator
Oil pan gasket
Heat exchanger under the oil filter
Power steering cap O-ring & hose clamps
Coolant Expansion Tank splits. Swap w/ Canton or RMW w/ real caps
All these aren't really difficult to do. There are many threads that discuss these in-depth.
#49
Look them up on Tire Rack