P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire
#26
Is there a high pressure fuel pump in the N12? On my 2009 Clubman S I was getting the following codes (at different times) and the fix was a new HPFP which was covered under a 10 year 120,000 mile warranty.
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
#27
The reading with the engine off sounds about normal depending on your elevation over sea level. Where I am it usually reads 2.85kgs. The 0 reading concerns me. Have you replaced the mass air at all? Does the car have a standard air filter or a k&n type that uses oil?
Last edited by EMKFLYER; 06-20-2014 at 10:43 AM.
#28
I just got some more data from the car....hopefully we are narrowing this down.
1. Fuel pressure 53 psi
2. Mass Air Flow 36.5 kilograms an hour at startup. Then 10 kilograms an hour when warm idle with the engine running good.
3. When the engine was running bad, the flow readings continued to read 2.5Kg AFTER the engine was shut off.
4. All air flow temperature readings including ambient are correct.
Any ideas given this data?
Thank you
Ed
1. Fuel pressure 53 psi
2. Mass Air Flow 36.5 kilograms an hour at startup. Then 10 kilograms an hour when warm idle with the engine running good.
3. When the engine was running bad, the flow readings continued to read 2.5Kg AFTER the engine was shut off.
4. All air flow temperature readings including ambient are correct.
Any ideas given this data?
Thank you
Ed
#29
53 psi is good. Spec is about 40-70 so that's in range. I'm glad the temps are accurate. Have you looked at the coolant temp sensor when it acts up? The MAF reading still doesn't sound quite right. I have a Clubman N12 to work on Monday I will try to hook it up and look at the readings to see what is normal(it runs good but needs brakes). Only the N14 and N18 have the HPFP.
#30
53 psi is good. Spec is about 40-70 so that's in range. I'm glad the temps are accurate. Have you looked at the coolant temp sensor when it acts up? The MAF reading still doesn't sound quite right. I have a Clubman N12 to work on Monday I will try to hook it up and look at the readings to see what is normal(it runs good but needs brakes). Only the N14 and N18 have the HPFP.
I think I may replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner...maybe VANOS while I'm in there. Do you know the shop hours required to complete the timing replacement?
Thank you again. This place is great
Ed
Last edited by EMKFLYER; 06-22-2014 at 06:00 AM.
#31
#32
#33
I took readings on the MAF this morning- key on engine off cold and hot is 0 kgs/h and cold start idle it starts at 17kgs/h and drops to 6.2kgs/h and stays there. Same reading with engine warmed up. Revved up to 2000 rpms and it increased to 17kgs and leveled off to 6.2kgs( increased air flow). Hope this helps.
#34
Thanks Dragon. I replaced the MAF but had no change in rough idle.
As I type this I'm watching the Ignition Advance at idle. It bounces between -5.0 to +16.5. Is this ok?
My MAF reading at idle is currently 2.11 with warm engine.
Someone else asked about coolant, it is 90 C.
Throttle CMD is 6.7 % at idle speed of 700 rpm.
Any thoughts or ideas now?
As I type this I'm watching the Ignition Advance at idle. It bounces between -5.0 to +16.5. Is this ok?
My MAF reading at idle is currently 2.11 with warm engine.
Someone else asked about coolant, it is 90 C.
Throttle CMD is 6.7 % at idle speed of 700 rpm.
Any thoughts or ideas now?
Last edited by EMKFLYER; 06-23-2014 at 06:02 PM.
#35
Sorry for the delay- its been a long day. What is the MAF reading with key on engine off? 2.5kgs is way low. Throttle command and idle speed seem normal. Does throttle command change as you rev the engine? It should steadily increase. It almost seems like there is a wiring issue between the MAF and DME.
#37
Sorry for the delay- its been a long day. What is the MAF reading with key on engine off? 2.5kgs is way low. Throttle command and idle speed seem normal. Does throttle command change as you rev the engine? It should steadily increase. It almost seems like there is a wiring issue between the MAF and DME.
To answer your questions Dragon...the Throttle CMD does increase as I increase RPM. Current MAF reading at idle is now 4.5KG.
This scanner I'm using won't let my see Key On with Engine off Data. Will try another.
Any chance I could have a Camshaft position sensor problem?
Mechanic was saying he is wondering if ECU doesn't need to be re-flashed. Do you ever see this issue?
Thanks again
Ed
Last edited by EMKFLYER; 06-24-2014 at 09:40 AM.
#39
#41
To time this motor requires a timing chain replacement? I asked the mechanic here, but he said he can't adjust timing because it's electronically controlled.
#42
Essentially it is. The DME electronically advances or retards the ignition timing. The crankshaft and cams are aligned a certain way which is the base engine timing. And to correct that you basically do the timing chain job. I did just think of 1 last thing. Have the mechanic pull out the vanos solenoid and look to see if there is any blockage of the solenoid. MINI calls it "swarf". If the passages of the vanos are restricted it doesn't allow proper oil flow thru for timing adjustment. If that looks good then I would look at the chain for sure.
#43
Essentially it is. The DME electronically advances or retards the ignition timing. The crankshaft and cams are aligned a certain way which is the base engine timing. And to correct that you basically do the timing chain job. I did just think of 1 last thing. Have the mechanic pull out the vanos solenoid and look to see if there is any blockage of the solenoid. MINI calls it "swarf". If the passages of the vanos are restricted it doesn't allow proper oil flow thru for timing adjustment. If that looks good then I would look at the chain for sure.
#45
After 2 weeks of trouble shooting and sleepless nights, the car is running like new! All I have done this afternoon is pull the camshaft sensor and start the car...it immediately ran better with the sensor removed. I then cleaned the sensor and put it back. Since then, the car has been running better than ever.
I will keep my fingers crossed that this is the end of this issue.
I would like to thank all of you that took the time to help me out. This place is awesome!
I will keep my fingers crossed that this is the end of this issue.
I would like to thank all of you that took the time to help me out. This place is awesome!
#47
EMKFLYER I think it's a good bet that you found the problem, lets cross our fingers. You'll need to install a new one though sooner or later.
It's my belief that this vanos solenoid is responsible for ticking noise once I get off the freeway but goes away after turning off the engine and turning it back on, you think cleaning it would help?
It's my belief that this vanos solenoid is responsible for ticking noise once I get off the freeway but goes away after turning off the engine and turning it back on, you think cleaning it would help?
#48
#49
Reviving this thread... Any root cause? I'm working on a 2009 N12 with 170k miles. Runs great, seems to have plenty of power but develops misfire on cyl2 when hot. If you pull wire to coil pack #2, there is no change in idle. Compression (measured when hot) is even across all four cylinders. When driving the car it appears to drive just fine; it's just a problem at hot idle.
Pulling the plugs, I can see slight moisture on a couple of cylinders including 2. Can't tell if it's fuel or oil but car does not smoke at all even on hard acceleration and even after engine braking down a long hill.
Trying to decide if the engine needs an overhaul or if it's something else. Engine sounds fine, there is a bit of a tick tick tick when at hot idle that sort of comes and goes.
Note - even when pulling coil pack 2, there is no check engine light/no code thrown....
Pulling the plugs, I can see slight moisture on a couple of cylinders including 2. Can't tell if it's fuel or oil but car does not smoke at all even on hard acceleration and even after engine braking down a long hill.
Trying to decide if the engine needs an overhaul or if it's something else. Engine sounds fine, there is a bit of a tick tick tick when at hot idle that sort of comes and goes.
Note - even when pulling coil pack 2, there is no check engine light/no code thrown....