Is there a high pressure fuel pump in the N12? On my 2009 Clubman S I was getting the following codes (at different times) and the fix was a new HPFP which was covered under a 10 year 120,000 mile warranty.

P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error

 

Dragon.....I had a mistype about the airflow readings. I edited the previous page entry to read: "When looking at the mass airflow data on the scan tool with the engine shut off it read: after the engine was running rough, still showing 2.5 kilograms an hour (confused why we would still get a 2.5KG reading with engine shut off). After we did all the work and the engine started running smooth it read 0 kg/h after the engine was shut down.

 

I just got some more data from the car....hopefully we are narrowing this down.

1. Fuel pressure 53 psi
2. Mass Air Flow 36.5 kilograms an hour at startup. Then 10 kilograms an hour when warm idle with the engine running good.
3. When the engine was running bad, the flow readings continued to read 2.5Kg AFTER the engine was shut off.
4. All air flow temperature readings including ambient are correct.

Any ideas given this data?

Thank you
Ed

 

53 psi is good. Spec is about 40-70 so that's in range. I'm glad the temps are accurate. Have you looked at the coolant temp sensor when it acts up? The MAF reading still doesn't sound quite right. I have a Clubman N12 to work on Monday I will try to hook it up and look at the readings to see what is normal(it runs good but needs brakes). Only the N14 and N18 have the HPFP.

 

Thanks Dragon. Where are you located? I need to find a place that is well versed on the Mini. The guys that have helping me are awesome, but they don't specialize in Mini, so we are working through this together.
I think I may replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner...maybe VANOS while I'm in there. Do you know the shop hours required to complete the timing replacement?
Thank you again. This place is great
Ed

 

The techs at Mini are pretty fast at timing chain replacement after doing more than a few per week, there even fast by now. On Vanos solenoid, does anyone know if it has any moving parts and can it make noises? Thanks

 

I'm in upstate NY. The vanos solenoid does make noise but is hard to hear-its like a buzzing when activated. It is difficult to find an independent repair shop that is well versed on MINIs. They are very unique to work on and the proper scan equipment is essential and expensive.

 

I took readings on the MAF this morning- key on engine off cold and hot is 0 kgs/h and cold start idle it starts at 17kgs/h and drops to 6.2kgs/h and stays there. Same reading with engine warmed up. Revved up to 2000 rpms and it increased to 17kgs and leveled off to 6.2kgs( increased air flow). Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Dragon. I replaced the MAF but had no change in rough idle.

As I type this I'm watching the Ignition Advance at idle. It bounces between -5.0 to +16.5. Is this ok?

My MAF reading at idle is currently 2.11 with warm engine.

Someone else asked about coolant, it is 90 C.

Throttle CMD is 6.7 % at idle speed of 700 rpm.

Any thoughts or ideas now?

 

Sorry for the delay- its been a long day. What is the MAF reading with key on engine off? 2.5kgs is way low. Throttle command and idle speed seem normal. Does throttle command change as you rev the engine? It should steadily increase. It almost seems like there is a wiring issue between the MAF and DME.

 

Oh and the ignition advance is fluctuating because the DME is trying to adjust accordingly

 

Yesterday I drained the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter. Then added fresh 92 Octane fuel. I also used a can of Wynn's De-Carbon foam. but still NO change in rough idle. As I sit here the Check Engine Light is back in with a P0303 Cyl 3 misfire!

To answer your questions Dragon...the Throttle CMD does increase as I increase RPM. Current MAF reading at idle is now 4.5KG.
This scanner I'm using won't let my see Key On with Engine off Data. Will try another.

Any chance I could have a Camshaft position sensor problem?

Mechanic was saying he is wondering if ECU doesn't need to be re-flashed. Do you ever see this issue?

Thanks again
Ed

 

I have never seen a N12 with your issue need a reflash or seen a reflash fix it. If the cam sensor reading is off then its most likely the engine out of timing

 

Just to test an idea......I unplugged the top camshaft sensor. The car started running smooth as silk. I did get CEL Code P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A.....but I'm running like a champ!
Any thoughts about this??

 

Its the sensor on the back side of the valve cover right? Sounds like the engine is out of time to me.

 

Standing in front of the car...it's the sensor on the right side and on top of the valve cover.

To time this motor requires a timing chain replacement? I asked the mechanic here, but he said he can't adjust timing because it's electronically controlled.

 

Essentially it is. The DME electronically advances or retards the ignition timing. The crankshaft and cams are aligned a certain way which is the base engine timing. And to correct that you basically do the timing chain job. I did just think of 1 last thing. Have the mechanic pull out the vanos solenoid and look to see if there is any blockage of the solenoid. MINI calls it "swarf". If the passages of the vanos are restricted it doesn't allow proper oil flow thru for timing adjustment. If that looks good then I would look at the chain for sure.

 

Exactly where is this Vanos solenoid located (N14)? Is it that cylinder looking sensor next to the tensioner behind cylinder #4 passenger side?

 

The vanos solenoid is above the tensioner on the intake side of the motor by cylinder 1

 

After 2 weeks of trouble shooting and sleepless nights, the car is running like new! All I have done this afternoon is pull the camshaft sensor and start the car...it immediately ran better with the sensor removed. I then cleaned the sensor and put it back. Since then, the car has been running better than ever.

I will keep my fingers crossed that this is the end of this issue.

I would like to thank all of you that took the time to help me out. This place is awesome!

 

Well I hope that fixes it. Good luck. If you have any more issues you can message me

 

EMKFLYER I think it's a good bet that you found the problem, lets cross our fingers. You'll need to install a new one though sooner or later.

It's my belief that this vanos solenoid is responsible for ticking noise once I get off the freeway but goes away after turning off the engine and turning it back on, you think cleaning it would help?

 

Cleaning it can't hurt. Does it only make the ticking at highway speeds? The N14 had issues with chain tensioner collapsing(as well as chain issues) and could cause noises too and that is just below the vanos solenoid

 

Reviving this thread... Any root cause? I'm working on a 2009 N12 with 170k miles. Runs great, seems to have plenty of power but develops misfire on cyl2 when hot. If you pull wire to coil pack #2, there is no change in idle. Compression (measured when hot) is even across all four cylinders. When driving the car it appears to drive just fine; it's just a problem at hot idle.

Pulling the plugs, I can see slight moisture on a couple of cylinders including 2. Can't tell if it's fuel or oil but car does not smoke at all even on hard acceleration and even after engine braking down a long hill.

Trying to decide if the engine needs an overhaul or if it's something else. Engine sounds fine, there is a bit of a tick tick tick when at hot idle that sort of comes and goes.

Note - even when pulling coil pack 2, there is no check engine light/no code thrown....

 

carbon build up? Maybe mentioned, sorry if i missed.