Carbon seems to be not an issue with the N12 and car pulls fine under partial/wide open throttle, but will pull the manifold nevertheless.

 

Yep, I've heard that. Easy check at least. Fuel pump checked? Good luck with u'r search.

 

The engine is supposed to shake a little when you pull the coil pack. If no change in idle when lulled, the coil pack is dead. Does the idle chamge you pull the other three?

 

This is driving me nuts. Cylinder 2 is dead when hot and at idle. When I drive the car, it feels totally normal. Just rough idle / cylinder 2 miss.

I tore the engine down completely and installed new piston rings and new rod bearings since it has 170k miles and I wanted to have a look at the bottom side of the head anyway for possible burned valves. Everything looked great. I put the engine back together and broke it in and....the issue is identical. Cyl 2 dead, not firing, rough idle, only when hot. I moved injector and coil pack to difference cylinder, the problem stayed with cyl 2. I replaced cam followers and hydraulic valve adjusters (HVA) ... problem is exactly the same. It has the updated 003 tensioner, looks like chain/guides were done less than 50k miles ago and everything is in perfect time.

I replaced the eccentric intake lobe motor, problem same.

I'll try swapping the cam sensors and the VANOS solenoids next.

I did read that a bad thermostat could cause this. but I'm not getting any codes (for anything - even with the cyl 2 misfire at idle... WHY!!?

 

Mmmm...sometimes the DME dies! Did you consider getting a set to try? It seems you have a base model right? Manual or auto?

 

Are the valves good? DI'ers?

 

2008 Clubman Base manual. Valves are fine. Swapped VANOS solenoids and sensors, no change. Swapped the little sensor on the end of the eccentric shaft, no change.

This is not a direct injection motor. This car is for sale at cost to wife's friend - DME is a last resort due to the cost.

I found a post on MINI2 suggesting fuel tank breather valve. That's my next part to throw at it. I don't have one of those on the shelf so I'll have to grab one off eBay.

 

Did you mention compression was fine on the cyl?

 

Yes, compression was equal across cylinders but I rebuilt it anyway just because, I had to do the clutch and rear main seal anyway, figured I'd just pull the motor and refresh all the seals and give it a good overhaul. Actually the rod bearings looked really good for the mileage (170K) and there was still some cross hatch showing on pistons and no vertical scoring.

 

That's frustrating with no codes, sorry man... If I can think of anything else I'll chime in, Good luck!

 

Did you confirm gas going to the cyl? How ?
Did you confirm sparking on the cyl? How?

 

Car runs perfectly until full hot and runs perfectly even when full hot when not at idle.

I swapped injectors and coil packs and the issue stays with cylinder 2. If I briefly disconnect the intake cam sensor, car runs perfect again. This has something to do with valvetronic on the intake side. Just not sure if it is mechanical or electrical.

 

How did this whole thing happened, what led to the issue?

Can you see amy visual damage to wires or plugs?

 

Bought the car cheap. It came with this problem.

There is no plug or wire damage. Like I said, car runs perfect and then issue exists only at idle and only when hot. It idles smooth as butter when cool and while warming up.

 

I don't think the issue is mechanical. the cylinder is healthy and so the others. when it gets hot, it misfires only at idle. the CEL comes on?

 

My thinking as well. I have had no codes other than as the result of unplugging stuff, other than occasionally a P0302 cyl 2 misfire. Could an old/lazy precat o2 sensor cause this?

 

What ended up fixing the misfire issue??

 

Hi,I have exactly the same issue with my Clubman 2008,misfire on cyl2 when it's hot.I make everything like you do till now and NOTHING,the problem is still there! Are you solved your problem and what was the decision? I have noise from chains when it's hot but I'm not sure that the problem with cyl2 is in there.
Will be very thankfull if you help me,because I like this car very much but don't know what to do else...
Regards.

 

In my case it was a bad engine @ 170k miles.

 

Ok,thanks.
I just can't explain why when I pull off the the cam shaft sensor everything is ok,and when I put it on- misfire cyl2.I think that it can't be bad engine...for me it's some electrical issue but can't find it...

 

That's exactly my symptom. It was the engine. I put an N16 engine which are easier to find (look on eBay) for lower price than N12. Just change over wiring harness, intake manifold and oil sensor on the head and it bolts right in. You can leave the variable oil pump connections unconnected