leaking turbo oil line
#26
what tool do you use to get the lower heatshield 10mm screws out?, I got the 2 drivers side screws out. the top one fell onto something. hopefully I can find it once the shield and downpipe are out. the 2 passenger side screws I'm not sure how to get out. its pretty tight in there. would I need a 1/4" ratchet? or maybe a long wrench? any extensions recommendations? that top screw's area that I lost was almost impossible to see, any tips for getting it back in? the top heatshield I didn't have trouble removing. those bottom screws were easy to get to from the bottom.
#27
Swivel joint and short 10mm socket worked for me, If you have a stubby , short ratchet it helps with the room and hitting things. Like have the size of a normal ratchet. That's for the bottom, for the top I used a small minute wrench with a 10mm box end.
Take your time s you don't bang up your hands, that heat shield metal is shap on the sides.
Take your time s you don't bang up your hands, that heat shield metal is shap on the sides.
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#28
#29
the 1/4" ratchet ended up working. got the down pipe out, didn't have to remove the studs. not sure how people even remove them. I just have the turbo support bracket heatshield to go. looks like thats held on with the turbo bracket bolt and one other screw?
this is a stupid question. but after I get the line on. can I start the car and rev it a few times to check for leaks without the down pipe and heatshields on? or is this risky?
also, the down pipe to exhaust connection had a metal washer thing with a bunch of bent tabs on it, can I just straighten out the tabs and reuse?
lastly, noticed the turbo to down pipe gasket was 2 half pieces, where as the one I ordered from DT is just one piece.
this is a stupid question. but after I get the line on. can I start the car and rev it a few times to check for leaks without the down pipe and heatshields on? or is this risky?
also, the down pipe to exhaust connection had a metal washer thing with a bunch of bent tabs on it, can I just straighten out the tabs and reuse?
lastly, noticed the turbo to down pipe gasket was 2 half pieces, where as the one I ordered from DT is just one piece.
#30
200+ miles after installing the replaced turbo oil line, The Toby is running like a champ again with no oil loss issues. I'm glad I now know how to put my car into service mode, but I don't hope to do it again any time soon.
(Gabe, I did not have any success getting the lower heat shield off without putting the car into service mode.)
(Gabe, I did not have any success getting the lower heat shield off without putting the car into service mode.)
#31
the 1/4" ratchet ended up working. got the down pipe out, didn't have to remove the studs. not sure how people even remove them. I just have the turbo support bracket heatshield to go. looks like thats held on with the turbo bracket bolt and one other screw?
this is a stupid question. but after I get the line on. can I start the car and rev it a few times to check for leaks without the down pipe and heatshields on? or is this risky?
also, the down pipe to exhaust connection had a metal washer thing with a bunch of bent tabs on it, can I just straighten out the tabs and reuse?
lastly, noticed the turbo to down pipe gasket was 2 half pieces, where as the one I ordered from DT is just one piece.
this is a stupid question. but after I get the line on. can I start the car and rev it a few times to check for leaks without the down pipe and heatshields on? or is this risky?
also, the down pipe to exhaust connection had a metal washer thing with a bunch of bent tabs on it, can I just straighten out the tabs and reuse?
lastly, noticed the turbo to down pipe gasket was 2 half pieces, where as the one I ordered from DT is just one piece.
#32
I got the feed line off today. heres some photos of the area, wanted to know if you guys see any issues. thanks
http://imgur.com/a/Izll1
you can click on each image to make it big. the fresh liquid on that silver layered looking block, I think the oil cooler. is pb blaster.
http://imgur.com/a/Izll1
you can click on each image to make it big. the fresh liquid on that silver layered looking block, I think the oil cooler. is pb blaster.
Last edited by Gabe3; 07-30-2014 at 09:35 PM.
#33
I got the feed line off today. heres some photos of the area, wanted to know if you guys see any issues. thanks
http://imgur.com/a/Izll1
you can click on each image to make it big. the fresh liquid on that silver layered looking block, I think the oil cooler. is pb blaster.
http://imgur.com/a/Izll1
you can click on each image to make it big. the fresh liquid on that silver layered looking block, I think the oil cooler. is pb blaster.
#34
You don't want to start it with out the down pipe on..one is that the O2 sensor will not be plugged in and reading so its going to give you a SES light, the other thing is it starts to warm up right away...and if you want to start to put it back together right way...it's going to be very hot. to touch and work around.
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#35
#36
You don't want to start it with out the down pipe on..one is that the O2 sensor will not be plugged in and reading so its going to give you a SES light, the other thing is it starts to warm up right away...and if you want to start to put it back together right way...it's going to be very hot. to touch and work around.
another thing. the top o2 sensor I got out pretty easily, but thats before I thought about finding where its plugged into. the bottom sensor, I spent a couple minutes on that. mine was just on too tight. its common for that one to be super tight. you can follow the wire up and unplug it. I was able to snake my arm through behind the coolant tank with a flat head and pry the red cap out. that releases it. but that side of the plug is attached to the car with a clip/mount, I couldn't get it off so I had to break it, nothing a zip tie can't fix.
I got this about the o2 connectors from another forum in case you want to unplug them.
the upper one is a tab on the side that you push in while pulling out the plug, the lower one has a red cap that you pull out to release the plug.
#37
I'm the one who tightened until the fitting wanted to turn. I had a defective line and before I knew the line was defective I tried 'fixing' the continuing oil leak by tightening the fittings.
Detroit Tuned sent me a replacement for the defective part free of charge and I no longer have a leak. At least... it's been a week and I am no longer offended by the smell of oil burning on my downpipe.
Do NOT tighten until your fittings want to turn. That is not necessary.
Detroit Tuned sent me a replacement for the defective part free of charge and I no longer have a leak. At least... it's been a week and I am no longer offended by the smell of oil burning on my downpipe.
Do NOT tighten until your fittings want to turn. That is not necessary.
#38
I'm the one who tightened until the fitting wanted to turn. I had a defective line and before I knew the line was defective I tried 'fixing' the continuing oil leak by tightening the fittings.
Detroit Tuned sent me a replacement for the defective part free of charge and I no longer have a leak. At least... it's been a week and I am no longer offended by the smell of oil burning on my downpipe.
Do NOT tighten until your fittings want to turn. That is not necessary.
Detroit Tuned sent me a replacement for the defective part free of charge and I no longer have a leak. At least... it's been a week and I am no longer offended by the smell of oil burning on my downpipe.
Do NOT tighten until your fittings want to turn. That is not necessary.
do you know if the line is suppose to go to the right of this small heat shield? the oem one did, to protect it from the exhaust I'm guessing. however to get the DT line to go to the right would require like a 90 degree bend in the line, I don't know if I should try bending it that much. if its not protected by that heatshield I'm afraid the oil could cook.
edit: I got it to the right of that shield but its below the return hose...?
Last edited by Gabe3; 08-02-2014 at 01:39 PM.
#39
It definitely... DEFINITELY needs to be to the right of that heatshield. The exhaust manifold hear night MELT your line. It's made of plastic under that stainless steel braid, you know.
Try keeping the fittings loose until it's where you want it to be. Detroit Tuned's online installation guide had a helpful picture to show the path.
Try keeping the fittings loose until it's where you want it to be. Detroit Tuned's online installation guide had a helpful picture to show the path.
#41
thanks. I didn't know it was made of plastic. in this picture the line is going under the return hose. the oem line went above it. I think its touching the oil cooler and the bottom of the return hose the way its routed in the photo.
edit: i may be wrong about the oem line going above the return hose. do you know? i think it goes either between the oil cooler and engine or oil cooler and return hose?
edit2: think I figured it out.
wondering if I should put anti seize on the 3 turbo to downpipe bolts. is 29.5 ft. lbs. torque correct for those 3 bolts? seems like a lot. a guide I read said 14.7 ft. getting the lower end of the line to not move into the return hose while tightening the fitting was tough. hope I got it tight enough. its touching the return hose's silver heat shielding cause I couldn't keep it close to the engine while tightening.
edit: i may be wrong about the oem line going above the return hose. do you know? i think it goes either between the oil cooler and engine or oil cooler and return hose?
edit2: think I figured it out.
wondering if I should put anti seize on the 3 turbo to downpipe bolts. is 29.5 ft. lbs. torque correct for those 3 bolts? seems like a lot. a guide I read said 14.7 ft. getting the lower end of the line to not move into the return hose while tightening the fitting was tough. hope I got it tight enough. its touching the return hose's silver heat shielding cause I couldn't keep it close to the engine while tightening.
Last edited by Gabe3; 08-03-2014 at 06:13 PM.
#43
#44
I was also able to reinstall everything without service mode with no fuss. the top heatshield was a little tricky to get back in place. but removing the oil dipstick tube helped.
#45
#46
$1800 is too much for this job. you could probably get it done for around $500-600 from an independent. i think the dealer wanted $1000.
#47
http://www.harborfreight.com/http-ww...4432-html.html + extension / deep socket
Worked great for this lower heat shield bolts. I would say it cut my installation / reassembly time in half.
Worked great for this lower heat shield bolts. I would say it cut my installation / reassembly time in half.
#48
thats good. I finished up today. so far so good. just some smoke from the pb blaster and anti seize probably. were you able to get your line in so it wasn't touching the bottom edge of that exhaust heatshield? mine is touching it and the oil cooler, as well as the engine, I attached a photo of it touching. seems like they could have bent it a lot more.
I was also able to reinstall everything without service mode with no fuss. the top heatshield was a little tricky to get back in place. but removing the oil dipstick tube helped.
I was also able to reinstall everything without service mode with no fuss. the top heatshield was a little tricky to get back in place. but removing the oil dipstick tube helped.
#49
well I bought my car with 57k and it was wet on the turbo. and just replaced my line at 63k. not sure how much longer it would hold up for. don't push the line in or out. it will just loosen up the o-ring's seal.
$1800 is too much for this job. you could probably get it done for around $500-600 from an independent. i think the dealer wanted $1000.
$1800 is too much for this job. you could probably get it done for around $500-600 from an independent. i think the dealer wanted $1000.
#50