Trifecta questions (ABS/DSC/TPM lights)
#1
Trifecta questions (ABS/DSC/TPM lights)
My wonderful, new-to-me '06 R53 has the three dash lights coming on roughly 5-10 minutes after each startup, usually when I hit a bump of some kind. I know it's most likely a wheel speed sensor, as some kind forum-goers have already told me; I've also just replaced the tires and checked tire pressure. I live in NYC and am paying to park the car in a tiny, crowded parking lot, so working on her myself is pretty much impossible until my wife and I move back out of the city. I'm thinking of holding on the repair until next month when I can drive to my favorite Mini garage in Massachusetts (Greasy's), or at least a friend's driveway out there, but not if it's a safety issue.
- When they keep lighting up, does it *disable* ABS and DSC too? i.e. am I running a safety risk?
- Is there a ODB-II code reader I can buy that can read ABS codes and figure out which one is at fault? Autozone checked the car when I had the battery replaced this week, but they didn't find any codes with their reader.
- How are the aftermarket wheel speed sensors holding up? Still worth saving the money on over OEM?
- When they keep lighting up, does it *disable* ABS and DSC too? i.e. am I running a safety risk?
- Is there a ODB-II code reader I can buy that can read ABS codes and figure out which one is at fault? Autozone checked the car when I had the battery replaced this week, but they didn't find any codes with their reader.
- How are the aftermarket wheel speed sensors holding up? Still worth saving the money on over OEM?
#2
There are a few threads on the wonderful "Trifecta" issue...
What I have found in the cases I have seen it, it pointed to a low voltage situation. You can check the output of the Alternator by using a multimeter when running you should see about 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volts). If it is a little low... (Turn off engine) I use my favorite electronic contact cleaner... I spay the inside of the alternator cleaning the armature and try to really get the point where the brushes run, give it a few minutes to dry... as I wait I go around back and check the static voltage reading of the battery, and it should be about 11.5 to 12.5 volts. If it is not you might want to put a Load tester on it to check the deep cycle health of the battery.
Restart the car and check your Alternator output voltage again, if it is not running in the 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volt) you may want to think about getting a replacement.
Additional checks include checking the overall condition of the engine compartment, is it clean? If it is filled with sand like debris? A good cleaning always helps, also you can check the ECM connection, disconnect the battery and unplug the ECM, spray both the ECM connectors and the Plug with your favorite electronic contact cleaner, let the pooling evaporate, reconnect the ECM connector then the battery and check your vehicle operation again.
Best of luck.
Motor on!
What I have found in the cases I have seen it, it pointed to a low voltage situation. You can check the output of the Alternator by using a multimeter when running you should see about 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volts). If it is a little low... (Turn off engine) I use my favorite electronic contact cleaner... I spay the inside of the alternator cleaning the armature and try to really get the point where the brushes run, give it a few minutes to dry... as I wait I go around back and check the static voltage reading of the battery, and it should be about 11.5 to 12.5 volts. If it is not you might want to put a Load tester on it to check the deep cycle health of the battery.
Restart the car and check your Alternator output voltage again, if it is not running in the 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volt) you may want to think about getting a replacement.
Additional checks include checking the overall condition of the engine compartment, is it clean? If it is filled with sand like debris? A good cleaning always helps, also you can check the ECM connection, disconnect the battery and unplug the ECM, spray both the ECM connectors and the Plug with your favorite electronic contact cleaner, let the pooling evaporate, reconnect the ECM connector then the battery and check your vehicle operation again.
Best of luck.
Motor on!
#3
What I have found in the cases I have seen it, it pointed to a low voltage situation. You can check the output of the Alternator by using a multimeter when running you should see about 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volts). If it is a little low... (Turn off engine) I use my favorite electronic contact cleaner... I spay the inside of the alternator cleaning the armature and try to really get the point where the brushes run, give it a few minutes to dry... as I wait I go around back and check the static voltage reading of the battery, and it should be about 11.5 to 12.5 volts. If it is not you might want to put a Load tester on it to check the deep cycle health of the battery.
Restart the car and check your Alternator output voltage again, if it is not running in the 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volt) you may want to think about getting a replacement.
Restart the car and check your Alternator output voltage again, if it is not running in the 14.5 volts (plus or minus 0.5 volt) you may want to think about getting a replacement.
I read and bookmarked about 10 different "trifecta" threads, but I think I absorbed it all as "wheel speed sensor problem" and didn't register it could be something else.
I just have to find a hose to wash the engine compartment. Living in NYC is a pain in the ***; I need to move back to Massachusetts or somewhere else in New England pronto, so I can get myself a garage and driveway again. :D
Jamie
#4
The codes to read which sensor are usually on a pro level scanner...
But a few software packages have come up....cheaper and cheaper that can use a laptop and a special cable....odb to USB.....
Bavtec was the first.... But $$$
There is a individual selling the actual BMW/mini software with a cable around (e-bay)...in eastern Europe.... The name of the sells appears semi reguarly ....and is varraions of one name..changes a bit..it is pirated software...lol...cost, about $45 to 65 if I recall right..a bit like ncs exper,but let's you sell all codes and chance some things at the dealer level...
Maybe I will recall the name...
Yeah...having Pete/ Greasysgarage is nice...if not for having them an hour down the road, I would have bought the software!!!
But a few software packages have come up....cheaper and cheaper that can use a laptop and a special cable....odb to USB.....
Bavtec was the first.... But $$$
There is a individual selling the actual BMW/mini software with a cable around (e-bay)...in eastern Europe.... The name of the sells appears semi reguarly ....and is varraions of one name..changes a bit..it is pirated software...lol...cost, about $45 to 65 if I recall right..a bit like ncs exper,but let's you sell all codes and chance some things at the dealer level...
Maybe I will recall the name...
Yeah...having Pete/ Greasysgarage is nice...if not for having them an hour down the road, I would have bought the software!!!
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