Don't go used with direct injection it would only be a core hopefully good for rebuilding. rebuilt from mini sites $3500-$4000. for any serious work take the front off, radiator and bumper, ac will have to be disconnected, not bad work and leaves you with great access to get to it all. if you have the ability least costly route would be clean up head, and re-ring and don't take out the crankshaft. time wise the swap can be done in a few days. If having the head planed mark the section that overhangs the block max 18thou. oh for the pull leave it all together even the harness stays on.

 

So what is the status of this Celtictc?

 

I just experienced this exact situation yesterday while replacing my Sons tensioner on his 2010 Mini Cooper. I immediately started searching the internet for anyone else having the same issue. Both my wife an I have a Mini Cooper S and Mini Cooper S Clubman, which I've replaced tensioners on before, with no complications. This one worried me a bit. I spent a few minutes retrieving the plunger end, because I didn't have a magnet readily available. I was able to use a small probe to pull it to the opening where I was able to grab it. I'm going to take the part to our local Mini dealership and see what your technicians think of it. Fortunately, what tension was left, kept the part over the spring the whole time.

 

This is the first style tensioner Mini had. nowadays, it is a complete unit. when replacing it, make sure to use the 82mm bolt not the 78mm.

 

I wish I read your post, brother. I am spending more time reading about Mini than driving it. What a POS

 

I had the same tensioner except a tip was lost in the engine bay after I pulled it out with a spring. But I had a replacement part with me. Nothing fancy, #15 part 86 mm long. Not sure if it makes sense to pay $85 for "BMW part" because it will end up coming apart