hi everybody,

I have a 2011 Mini Jcw (R56) mileage 30 000km

Car failed to start at last Friday. At night I parked my car didn't have a problem. In the morning it takes a crank to startup. I contacted the garage and came near my car. My car has one carrot fuel (mid grade fuel).

- Battery is okey.
- No error codes was shown.
- My spark plugs are fine.
- Hear pump starts

A techical man removed rear seat, removed the cover, pulled the electrical connector on the fuel pump. I held my foot fully on the gas and clutch and pressed the start button. it just cranks and started, a man reconnected connector on pump immediately. Everything was fine, works like a clock. I stopped the car again and restart success.

Today, same problem repeated. We applied the same solution and worked. A man said that bad fuel causes the problem, i filled the tank with premium grade fuel. If the problem continues, I really don't know what to do.


Must replace; HPFP, Fuel pump, Fuel filter, MAF sensor or thermostat. I confused

 

How often do you run the tank near empty?
Ever been carbon cleaned?
Any drivability issues?
When it starts does it fire up quick or does it take a second or so?
Not sure what you book says....is midgrade OK on a JCW? Thought it was OK on an s, but JCW needed premium. Likely not the issue, but something to think about.

 

First, Thank you for your answer.

4-5 times i run my car near empty in past 6 months.
none carbon cleaned.
No problem, acceleration well.
After we have done above solution, when it starts, it fires up quick on Saturday. But today the problem occured again as i explained.
Then we done solution again, my car started and i filled the tank with premium grade fuel.

I am waiting 10-12 hours to test it again. Also a technical man said we should control in 3-4 days this problem if it's continue or not, so my fuel pump cover didnt screw yet.

 

Since plugging unplugging and plugging in the low psi pump (feeds fuel to the high psi pump) seems to work, I would guess it is failing in some way...kinda unusual...but they tend to fail on cars that the fuel tank is run VERY low...the pump is submerged in fuel to cool it...so when it is sucking the last half gallon of fuel from the bottom of the tank...it is running hot...and heat causes failures in motors....
General rule is when you get below 1/4 tank, add fuel.
A "technical" man, aka a mechanic in my parts, should have a few tools to check the pump...a fuel pressure guage...situation is a BIT more murkey on the direct injected motors with a high pressure pump (tends to be troublesome on the mini), but symptoms are a bit different in most posts...SOME areas have a extended warrenty on the high psi pump...but the cost of replamnents parts are now so low, the Hassel of a dealer warrenty reapair with an overnight of not having your car so they can test a cold start makes it a wash(about the same $$) to getting a unit from a 3rd party and having a local place do it (at least in the USA).
I know gen1 cars pretty well...but give this thread a couple days, sure a few folks will jump in!!

 

Thank you for sharing your experience. I understand you very well.
If the problem will solve, I would like to replacements parts. But there is no error codes was shown and we do not know what we need to replace.

I'll also wait advice from experienced members.

 

For the record ZippyNH a smart dude.

The procedure when a fuel pump is believed to be the culprit you need to have both pumps (low psi pump in tank, High Pressure Fuel Pump or HPFP) tested separately. Mini USA extended the HPFP to 10 years or 150,000 miles, the other pump in the gas tank doesn't have a warranty. If I were a betting man I would place my bet on the intake gas pump because you have mentioned driving with you tank low quite a few times. ECS Tuning is where you want to make your purchase because you can get parts for hundreds less than going to the dealer.

 

Thank you for your answer.
In this morning, i close same problem and solve same solution. But my man check via obd my car and the car gave an error about 2F22 Air Cooling system.

All day in the garage i run 3-hour intervals my car success. I have to wait the morning. If my car still doesnt start up and gives an error about same problem, i have to change it.

Is it any warranty by dealer to change thermostat housing/coolant anyone knows? my warranty was expired last year.

 

Where are you?
You used some terms that are not typically used by folks in my neck of the woods...
Location is important for warrenty work....as it varies by market...lots of folks from the USA here...some from Canada and a few From Mexico.....

 

I have never heard of a warranty on the thermostat housing in any region, expect to replace the thermostat housing every 50,000 miles. I do know that in a warmer climate can speed up the process dramatically. The day mine failed it was 100+ degrees F at home and 75 degrees F at my destination (beach), with such a huge change in temperature plastic swells up in hot weather and contracts in cold weather. It was this that started the chain of events that kills these plastic thermostat housings.

Imagine this constant heating (swelling) and cooling (contracting) cycle over the course of a few years or about 50,000 miles!

 

from Greece

Today i will ask my dealer this situation

 

I had mine replaced about a month ago at 60,000 miles. Had a few intermittent hollow orange engine warning lights. Never had another after replacement. Dealer wanted $200 just for the thermostat. My local shop which I trust, charged $115 for the part. I supplied the MINI coolant. They already have distilled water (which must be used 50/50% with the coolant.) Total charge in Monterey, California including all taxes was $385. I'm very satisfied. Car seems oddly quieter now and seems to idle smoother.

I have a 2010 MCooper S with automatic sports transmission.

Edit: Sorry, it must not have been clear that the $385 was what I paid to my shop for labor, parts, and taxes. I didn't get the work done at the dealership.

 

That's outrageous, your Mini dealer was charging you more money than they would have sold it to you for the DIY'er, it's a $115-$125 dollar part! It would have been funny had you bought the part from their parts department for $115, hand it to them and ask them how much for labor.