So I've been having cruise control issues for a while now. It only works when it feels like it. I get the double blinking CC light. I was working on diagnosing it when I noticed my brake lights were flickering and acting odd when I pressed the brake pedal and then they stayed on. So I ordered a new brake switch and installed it. Apparently I installed it in the wrong spot, there is also the same bracket right next to where the brake switch is but its for the clutch. But there is/was nothing there. So I put it in the right place and no I get no brake lights and still no CC.

I have searched much of the wiring loom that is visible from the BC1 and cannot find the dreaded diode that might be bad.

My build date is 03/2004.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, right now I cannot afford to bring the car to the dealer. This comes right after I got some other things fixed and thought I was going to be in the clear for the rest of the winter. I really need to get this back on the road ASAP.

Thanks!

 

Need to add, it's safe to assume the clutch switch is good since I can start the car?

 

Second addition;
no signs of water in the passenger foot well near the BC1

 

Check the ABS harness where it comes through the firewall into the engine compartment on the passenger side. Late 2004 and 2005 models have been known to rub against a body weld in that area and cause a short which messes with the brake light circuit. Also, check inside the rear hatch for water leaking in around the outside hatch handle which causes corrosion to the center brake light harness and also messes with the brake lights. The cruise control is malfunctioning probably because it sees the brake light circuit activated.

 

I will check these right now. Totally agree that it has something to do with the brake circuit, just have to find it.

 

Had the key turned to ON, but not started and a breaker bar holding the brake pedal down. Also had the running lights on to check that out.

Not much to look at near the ABS unit, there's a cover behind it and I wasn't about to start taking that apart in the freezing rain. Good thing I didn't though.

Moved to the rear hatch; removed the inside cover and found traces of rust on the plastic. Can't really find any traces of water anywhere on the door itself. The rear handle is a mess but I don't really see how it can short out the brake lights. When I close the rear hatch the brake lights flash, as if there is a quick connection due to the force of the door closing. I banged around the hatch with the closed and I could get the brakes lights to flash. Mainly when I bang in the middle. The running lights work fine including the the license plate lights.

Should I take out the tail lights and see whats there?

Thanks!

 

I suggest that you unplug each of the connections at the hatch light module and see if that eliminates the connection issue with the brake lights. Make sure each connection is cleaned and use some dialectic grease when putting them back together. Find the source of the water leak. I doubt that it's the brake lights from what you describe.

 

Thanks again for the reply. Where is the hatch light module you speak of?

 

Sorry, I'm referring to the light assembly. The plug in connections are probably corroded. Those should be disconnected, cleaned and coated with dielectric grease before putting you interior panel back on. Banging on the rear hatch shouldn't cause the brake lights to flash.
The water leakage and subsequent corroded connections is a common issue with 1st Gens.

 

So I put dielectric grease on all the connectors in the hatch, defroster included. All connectors looked clean and un-corroded.

The brake lights still only stay on for half a second to a full second when the hatch is slammed shut or I bang on the hatch when its closed.

I looked at as much of the wiring loom as I could and it doesn't look like any wires are frayed or kinked.

Right when I think I couldn't have any more issues...

 

Where are you located?

 

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

 

It's bitterly cold here now and I'm heading out of town until Sunday. I'll be taking a closer look at the wiring loom coming into the hatch next Monday and Tuesday.

 

Went to do a little more troubleshooting this morning. I had taken the hatch handle off and put it inside while I was away to dry out, that thing is a mess. the seal is broken in places, the screw holes are cracked, etc. I put the handle back on and the brake lights works perfect now.

BUT, the ASC light stays on and CC light blinks when the button is pressed. I beginning to thing the BC1 needs to be replaced Any thoughts on this?

Can a second hand BC1 be reprogrammed to my car? Does it actually need to be programmed or are they swappable?

 

Just called the MINI dealer, $765 for a new BC1 and 3 hrs install and program @ $124

This sucks.

 

So it seems the windows will work without the key being turned.

Can someone confirm that I should get the BC1 replaced?

 

Just as an update the list of things going wrong got longer.

Cruise Control didn't work
Brake lights would only work when they felt like it even after replacing the switch
You could use the windows even when no key in ignition.
DSC light would come on after a few minutes of driving.

So I dropped it off at the dealer while I was out of town. They had to let it sit for two days to thaw, the passenger footwell was full of ice/water. I was expecting to have to replace and program a new BC1. Not the case; they had to replace the battery because it was faulty. After that everything worked perfect. Apparently if the battery is fried the car starts shutting down modules. So instead of a $1200+ bill I got a $520. I was very relieved.

 

Sort of a happy ending!!

Al

 

Was a happy ending.
The supercharger bit the dust this morning.

Anyone have one laying around they can sell me?